SUCCESS 

v     •  •    ; 


LIBRARY 

i 

OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

•     -  '       v  .' 

Class  '  •    ' 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 


THE   GARDEN   LIBRARY 


Roses  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  MANY  EXPERTS 

Ferns  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  G.  A.  WOOLSON 

Lawns  and  How  to  Make  Them 

By  LEONARD  BARRON 

Daffodils-Narcissus  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  A.  M.  KIRBY 

Water-Lilies  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  H.   S.    CONARD  AND  HENRI  HUS 

The  Flower  Garden 

By  IDA  D.  BENNETT 

The  Vegetable  Garden 

i  By  IDA  D.  BENNETT 

The  Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden 

By  E.  P.  POWELL 

House  Plants  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  PARKER  T.  BARNES 

Success  in  Market  Gardening 

By  HERBERT  RAWSON 


AN  IMPORTANT  ADJUNCT  TO  THE  MARKET  GARDEN 


Success  in 
Market  Gardening 

A  NEW 
VEGETABLE  GROWERS'  MANUAL 


By 
HERBERT  RAWSON 


REVISED    AND    ENLARGED    EDITION 


ILLUSTRATED 

' 

ERSITY 


NEW  YORK 

DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  COMPANY 
1910 


ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED,  INCLUDING  THAT  OF  TRANSLATION 
INTO  FOREIGN  LANGUAGES,  INCLUDING  THE  SCANDINAVIAN 

COPYRIGHT,    1892,   BY   W.    W.    RAWSON 

COPYRIGHT,   ipio,  BY  DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  COMPANY 

PUBLISHED,  APRIL,  1910 


PREFACE 

The  present  volume  is  a  revision  of  the  book  of 
the  same  title  written  by  my  father,  the  late  W.  W. 
Rawson,  which  ran  through  several  editions. 

In  1907,  a  year  before  his  death,  my  father  fully 
appreciated  the  fact  that  any  further  edition  of 
his  work  would  have  to  be  thoroughly  revised  in 
many  important  details,  especially  with  regard  to 
varieties  of  vegetables  at  present  under  cultivation. 
With  this  in  mind,  he  had  actually  started  rewrit- 
ing the  book,  doing  it  in  a  leisurely  way  as  oppor- 
tunity offered.  It  is  a  keen  regret  to  me  that  he 
did  not  live  to  complete  his  labours;  death  overtook 
him  before  he  had  done  much  beyond  making 
a  number  of  miscellaneous  notes  and  amend- 
ments. 

I  have,  therefore,  undertaken  this  task  of  revi- 
sion in  a  sense  of  filial  duty  and  regard,  allowing 
as  much  as  possible  of  my  father's  own  manuscript 
to  appear  in  the  present  edition,  which  is  offered 
to  present  the  most  up-to-date  methods  of  com- 

[v] 

219190 


PREFACE 

mercial  vegetable  culture  in  the  Eastern  United 
States.  With  his  practices  and  ideals  I  am  nat- 
urally familiar,  having  been  associated  with  him 
in  the  actual  business  of  growing  for  some  years 
prior  to  his  death. 

Like  my  father,  I  have  been  brought  up  in  the 
business  of  market  gardening,  and  can  say  as  he 
said,  "my  father  followed  it  before  me."  No 
market  garden  in  New  England  has,  at  any  time, 
employed  a  larger  capital  or  marketed  a  larger 
annual  product  than  does  our  establishment. 

The  extent  of  the  establishment  and  operations 
at  Arlington  has  attracted  general  public  notice. 
Men  who  have  already  embarked  in  the  business, 
and  have  themselves  been  more  or  less  success- 
ful in  it,  will  find  in  this  book  the  means  of  com- 
paring their  own  methods  with  ours.  Young 
men  who  are  about  to  choose  their  vocation, 
and  who  have  heard  of  the  increasing  extent  and 
importance  of  this  business  of  vegetable  grow- 
ing, will  find  here  facts  collected  from  a  long 
experience,  which  I,  think,  can  hardly  fail  to  be 
valuable. 

A  reasonable  man  will  estimate  the  worth  of 
this  book  by  what  it  contains  —  not  criticising 

[vil 


PREFACE 

it  for  the  absence  of  matters  which  lie  beyond  its 
scope  and  purpose. 

The  revisions  and  enlargements  in  the  present 
edition  illustrate  the  most  recent  changes  and 
improvements  in  the  art  of  market  gardening. 

H.   R. 

ARLINGTON,  MASS.,  March,  1910. 


[vii] 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  I 

PAGE 

INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS. — Scope  of  the  Work      ....        3-5 

LOCATION  AND  SOILS. — Choice  of  a  Location. — Convenience  of 

Slopes. — Character  of  Soil 6-9 

LAND  DRAINAGE. — Construction  of  Drains. — Provision  for  Outlet. — 

Depths  and  Intervals. — Benefits 10-18 

IRRIGATION. — Necessity  for  Watering. — Sub-irrigation. — Surface 
Waterings. — Sources  of  Supply. — Storage. — Amount  and  Fre- 
quency.— Distributing  by  Hose. — Service  of  the  Pump. — Out- 
fit and  Operation. — Estimates  of  Cost. — Instances  of  Success. — 
Further  Instructions  /•^•**;  1f<  ^/-. »•••;*.  ....  19-35 

CHAPTER  II 

PREPARATION  OF  THE  SOIL. — First  Stages. — How  to  Plow. — A 

Thorough  Tillage  *:-••'»<•••;  .,<,  v  •-••*  •••••^.N  #.•<-,=  .  36-42 

LAYING  our  CROPS  AND  ROTATION. — Systematic  Work. — Objects 

of  a  Rotation  i  +->  .  :':.  •«,  : •••* •/  "...  •.-;••  *K  .  .  43-47 

MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS. — Amounts  and  Methods. — Sources  of 
the  Supply. — Overhauling  and  Distributing  on  Land. — Pro- 
cesses of  Fermentation. — Commercial  Fertilizers. — Night  Soil. 
— Wood  Ashes. — Manuring  in  the  Hill. — Composts. — Liquid 
Manures. — Comparative  Values. — Chemical  Constituents. — 
Works  of  Reference  .  . '  • ;  *  >  > 48-63 

APPLICATION  OF  MANURES. — Rapid-growing  Crops. — Fertilizing 

Land  under  Crop. — Different  Methods  .  ,.  ;.  f.  .  64-68 

CHAPTER  III 

SELECTION  OF  SEEDS. — Growing  or  Purchasing. — Best  is  Cheapest. 

—When  to  Purchase.— Testing  for  Quality      .         .        .  69-70 

[ix] 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

VITALITY  OF  SEEDS. — How  Impaired. — How  Preserved. — Contin- 
uance of  Vitality. — Growth  from  Fresh  or  Older  Seeds  .  71-73 

SEED-GROWING. — By  Vegetable-growers. — By  Seedsmen. — Improv- 
ing the  Strain. — Differences  in  Maturing. — Arlington  Seed- 
growing. — Best  is  Cheapest. — Gathering  and  Curing  .  .  74-76 

SOWING  THE  SEED.— In  Newly  Worked  Soil.— Depth  and  Other 

Conditions 77-79 

CULTIVATION  OF  CROPS. — During  Growth. — Other  Rules  and  Sug- 
gestions .  *  . 80-81 

CONSTRUCTION  AND  OPERATION  OF  HOT-BEDS. — Furnishing  and 
Regulating  the  Heat. — Continuous  Care  Essential. — Tem- 
perature and  Other  Conditions  of  Success. — Four  Crops  in  a 
Season  .  ..'...  .  ., .  .  .  .  •  •  •  82~87 

GARDENING  IN  HOT-HOUSES. — Growth  of  the  Practice. — Advan- 
tages Resulting. — Requirements  for  Heating  .  .  .  .  88-90 

GATHERING  THE  CROPS. — When  to  Gather. — Handling  and  Pack- 
ing .  .  .  .  .  -.;  .  ,  .  ,  .  .  .  91-92 

CAPITAL  AND  LABOUR. — Amounts  Required. — Practice  and  Opin- 
ions.— Rules  and  Data. — Cost  of  Sundry  Items  .  .  .  92-95 


CHAPTER  IV 

VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET. — Characteristics  of,  and  Cul- 
tural Directions  for,  the  following  kinds: — Artichoke — Jeru- 
salem Artichoke  —  Asparagus  —  Dwarf  or  Bush  Beans  — 
Pole  Beans  —  Scarlet  Runners  —  Lima  Beans  —  Beets  — • 
Borecole,  or  Kale  —  Broccoli  —  Brussels  Sprouts  —  Cabbage  — 
Carrot  —  Cauliflower  —  Celeriac  —  Celery  —  Chicory  —  Chives  96-14 


CHAPTER  V 

VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET. — Characteristics,  etc.,  Con- 
tinued. Field  Corn  —  Sweet  Corn  —  Corn  Salad  —  Cress  — 
Upland  Cress  —  Cucumber  —  Dandelion  —  Egg  Plant  —  En- 
dive— Herbs — Horse  Radish  —  Kohl  Rabi — Leek — Lettuce — 
Martynia  — Mushrooms  —  Muskmelons  and  Cantaloupes  — 
Mustard  —  Okra  V  .  .  <) .  .  .  .  145-180 

Nl 


CONTENTS 
CHAPTER  VI 

PAGE 

VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET. — Characteristics,  etc.,  Con- 
tinued. Onions  —  Parsley  —  Parsnips  —  Peas  —  Peppers  -*- 
Potatoes — Radishes — Rhubarb — Salsify — Sea  Kale  —  Spinach 

—  Squash  —  Tomato  —  Turnips  —  Watermelons  —  Chinese 

Yam 181-220 

CHAPTER  VII 

IMPLEMENTS,  ORDINARY  AND  SPECIAL. — Kemp's  Manure  Spreader 

—  Plows  —  Useful   Styles  —  Harrows  —  Rollers  —  Cultiva- 
tors —  Small  Tools  —  Wheel  Hoes  —  Seed-Drills  —  Com- 
bination Wheel  Tools  —  Tools  for  Special  Uses       .        .         221-238 

GREENHOUSES,  ETC.  —  Modes  of  Heating  —  Use  of  Electric  Light 

—  Permanent  Outside  Beds  —  Low  Cost  Forcing  House          238-242 
PUMPING  OUTFITS. — Different  Styles  —  Various  Kinds  of  Power     243-246 
INSECT  PESTS. — Preventives  —  Process  of  Fumigation    .         .         247-258 
FUNGI  AND  PLANT  DISEASES. — Nature  and  Growth  of  Fungi  —  Pre- 
ventives —  Process  of  Spraying     .        .        .        .        .         .    259-263 

IN  CONCLUSION. — Practice  vs.  Theory  —  Experiments  and  Results 

—  Forcing-House  Products  —  Closing  Suggestions       .         .    264-267 
INDEX  .    •   .        .    269 


[xi] 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


An  Important  Adjunct  to  the  Market  Garden     Frontispiece 


FACING  PAGE 


Testing  Seeds  for  Vitality       .         .         ...  76 

Seedlings  of  Cucumber  Pricked  Out  from  the  Seed  Bed  76 

Digging  Over  Hot-bed  After  Heat  is  Put  in     .          .  77 

Pulling  Radishes  for  Market 77 

Crosby  Egyptian  Beet    .        \         .         i         .         .112 

Rawson's  Perfection  Cabbage          ...         .          .  113 

Early  Jersey  Wakefield  Cabbage     .         ...  113 

Sea  Foam  Cauliflower   .          .         *         .         .          .  134 

Paris  Golden  Self-blanching  Celery          .         .-        .  135 

Rawson's  Hot-house  Cucumber       .         »         .         *'  154 

Marking  for  Lettuce  Plants    .          .         ,         .          .  155 

Lettuce  Plants  Ready  to  Set  into  the  House     .         .  155 

Putting  in  Bottom  Heat  for  a  Second  Crop  of  Lettuce  172 

Taking  up  Prickers  of  Lettuce  from  Seed  Beds         .  172 

A  House  of  Lettuce  One  Week  Previous  to  Marketing  173 

Danvers  Yellow  Globe  Onion,  New  England  Grown 

Strain      .         .         .         *         .         .        ...         .  182 

[xiii] 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING  PAGE 

Digging  Parsnips  from  Pit  to  Send  to  Wash-shed 

for  Market       .          ,         .          .          .          .          .  183 

Parsnips  in  Tubs  Ready  to  Wash    .                   .         .  183 

Rawson's  Excelsior  Pea           .                ^4         .         .  210 

Comet  Tomato      .  211 


[xiv] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 


CHAPTER   I 

INTRODUCTORY   REMARKS  —  LOCATION   AND   SOILS 

—  LAND    DRAINAGE  —  IRRIGATION   OF   CROPS 

ESTIMATES   OF   COST  —  INSTRUCTIONS 

MARKET  GARDENING  as  a  business  has  some 
peculiar  features  in  which  it  differs  from  other 
branches  of  agriculture.  Many  people  have  an 
impression  that  the  growing  of  vegetables  for 
market  is  like  any  ordinary  farming,  and  are  dis- 
posed to  believe  that  any  person  who  can  plough, 
hoe  and  dig  can  grow  one  crop  as  well  as  another. 
Such  people  would  find  themselves  sadly  mistaken 
if  they  should  undertake  the  business  themselves 
and  actually  attempt  to  carry  it  on  equipped  with 
only  a  general  knowledge  of  ordinary  farm 
work. 

Market  gardening  is  made  up  of  details;  and, 
while  each  separate  step  may  be  easy  of  mastery 
by  those  who  have  a  natural  taste  for  the  business, 
the  whole  art  and  a  full  comprehension  of  it  can 
be  acquired  only  by  actual  experience  in  the 

19] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

work  and  thorough  practical  acquaintance  with 
all  the  minor  points. 

Therefore  we  desire  every  one  to  understand  at 
the  outset  that  a  book  on  the  subject,  no  matter 
how  complete,  can  be  only  a  helper,  and  a  partial 
guide  toward  the  desired  knowledge.  In  other 
words,  the  rules  that  can  be  laid  down  on  paper, 
however  explicit  they  may  be  made,  will  never 
educate  a  man  to  be  a  successful  gardener,  unless  he 
is  himself  naturally  adapted  to  the  business,  and  is 
willing  to  do  his  part  by  personally  devoting  him- 
self to  the  work,  in  all  its  details,  as  it  goes  along. 

And  so  in  writing  the  cultural  directions  for  the 
different  crops,  I  do  not  expect  to  be  explicit 
enough  to  enable  a  mere  novice,  with  no  knowl- 
edge whatever  of  the  subject,  to  achieve  a  success 
in  gardening  the  first  year.  This  would  be  impos- 
sible for  me  to  do,  were  I  to  attempt  it  —  which 
I  do  not.  Even  should  I  set  down  the  most  minute 
particulars  and  details,  there  would  be  very  few 
cases  where  one  could  carry  them  out  to  the  letter, 
as  culture  and  treatment  must  necessarily  vary 
according  to  soil  and  locality. 

But  my  aim  is  simply  this:  by  writing  out 
practical  directions  and  descriptions,  gathered 

[4] 


INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS 

from  my  own  experience,  to  enable  any  one, 
already  in  some  degree  familiar  with  the  work  to 
cultivate  successfully  the  various  crops  enumer- 
ated; provided  his  land  and  location  are  adapted 
to  them.  I  propose  to  give  my  readers,  as  far  as 
possible,  the  benefit  of  my  own  practical  experi- 
ence, and  the  methods  of  a  success  in  business 
which  has  been  gained  only  by  years  of  close 
application  and  hard  work. 

In  the  following  pages,  I  shall  discuss  at  more 
or  less  length  all  the  different  products  of  the 
market  garden;  and  some  of  the  coarser  crops, 
belonging  rather  to  the  "farm  garden,"  or  even 
to  the  farm,  will  be  incidentally  treated  of.  In 
so  doing.  I  shall  go  through  the  whole  series  in 
alphabetical  order,  in  order  that  the  reader  may 
the  more  readily  turn  to  the  information  he  is 
seeking.  I  propose  to  devote  space  most  liber- 
ally to  the  most  important  crops.  A  chapter  on 
Farm  Implements  and  other  supplementary  mat- 
ter will  conclude  the  work. 

But  there  are  certain  conditions  essential  to  all 
crops.  Some  of  the  most  essential  requirements 
of  high  cultivation,  and  even  of  the  most  ordi- 
nary soil  culture,  are  often  misconceived  or  over- 

[5] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

looked,  to  a  serious  extent.  For  which  reason  it 
seems  best,  before  proceeding  to  particular  direc- 
tions for  particular  crops,  to  treat,  as  fully  as 
space  will  permit,  of  these  general  and  very 
essential  matters. 

LOCATION   AND    SOILS 

In  seeking  a  good  location  for  a  market  garden, 
of  course  the  first  point  to  be  taken  into  con- 
sideration is  the  necessity  of  being  near  some 
good  market. 

And,  right  here,  we  would  say  that  the  largest 
cities  do  not  always  offer  the  greatest  induce- 
ments to  beginners.  There  are  hundreds  of 
wide-awake  towns  all  over  the  country  which  will 
furnish  a  good,  though  limited,  market  for  men 
who  are  able  to  work  up  a  trade. 

In  these  smaller  towns,  producers  will  often  be 
enabled  to  realize  better  prices  than  in  metropol- 
itan markets,  both  from  the  fact  that  there  is  less 
competition  to  meet,  and  also  because  the  purcha- 
sers there  found  will  be  likely  to  look  more  to  the 
quality,  and  less  to  the  cheapness,  of  the  article 
offered,  than  those  resorting  to  the  city  markets. 

[6] 


LOCATION  AND  SOILS 

As  we  have  mentioned,  nearness  to  market  is 
an  important  point,  but  the  character  of  the  soil 
and  the  lay  of  the  land  are  of  importance  almost 
as  vital  as  location.  Of  course,  for  a  variety  of 
crops,  the  land  should  be  varied  in  character. 
But  such  variety  cannot  always  be  obtained,  so 
that  many  are  confined  to  one  or  two  distinct 
kinds  of  soil,  and  in  such  cases  find  themselves 
limited  to  such  few  crops  as  are  particularly 
adapted  to  their  land  and  location. 

Rocky  ground  is,  of  course,  and  by  all  means  to 
be  avoided  for  garden  crops,  in  view  of  the  deep 
and  uniform  cultivation  they  need  to  receive. 
And  low  lands  which  require  under-draining  are 
adapted  only  to  certain  special  crops,  and  involve 
heavy  outlays  to  make  them  capable  of  profitable 
culture.  Preferably  to  either,  a  sandy  loam  with  a 
sandy  or  gravelly  subsoil  should  be  selected.  Such 
land  is  far  better  than  soils  resting  on  clay,  not 
only  because  its  nature  is  warmer,  but  because  it 
is  naturally  well  drained.  A  .clay  subsoil,  at 
least  until  deep  drains  have  been  sunk  and  oper- 
ated a  considerable  time,  will  render  any  land 
cold,  as  it  retains  the  moisture. 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

If  one  can  have  his  choice  as  regards  the  lay 
of  his  land,  gently  rolling  or  undulating  slopes 
with  a  general  eastern  or  southern  exposure 
should  by  all  means  be  selected.  This  will  make 
more  difference  than  some  might  imagine;  as  a 
northern  or  western  slope  is  not  nearly  so  soon 
affected  by  the  genial  spring  influences  as  a  more 
sunny  location. 

The  difference  between  a  northern  and  a  south- 
ern slope  often  amounts  to  one  crop  a  year;  for 
on  the  sunny  side  of  a  rise  of  land  the  soil  can  be 
worked  in  the  spring  so  much  earlier  that,  by 
right  calculation,  two  crops  a  year  can  be  grown, 
the  first  of  which  can  be  planted  earlier  —  and  the 
second  can  actually  be  harvested  sooner  —  than 
the  one  crop  raised  on  a  northern  slope. 

Sloping  land  has  still  another  advantage,  almost 
equally  desirable  with  that  derived  from  having 
the  right  exposure,  consisting  in  the  facility  it 
affords  for  irrigation.  If  a  water  supply  can  be 
brought  to  and  stored  in  a  tank,  constructed  on 
a  natural  elevation  within  the  area  to  be  irri- 
gated, the  slopes  of  course  furnish  the  most  con- 
venient means  possible  for  its  distribution  to  the 
crops.  And  if  the  location  is  fortunately  near  a 

[8] 


LOCATION  AND  SOILS 

large  pond,  or  unfailing  brook,  the  privilege  of 
access  to  such  a  water  supply  would  very  greatly 
increase  the  real  value  of  the  land  for  every  sort 
of  cultivation. 

It  should  be  noticed  that  some  ground  which  in 
its  native  condition  is  quite  incapable  of  bearing 
good  crops  has  yet  a  superior  natural  capacity, 
that  may  be  developed  by  skilful  handling  and 
liberal  expenditure.  This  is  especially  true  of 
lands  lying  on  a  retentive  subsoil,  and  such  lands, 
after  some  years  of  thorough  draining  and  deep 
tilth,  will  show  admirable  results.  In  treating 
of  drainage,  we  shall  endeavour  to  make  it  clear 
how  such  a  course  of  culture  operates  to  mellow 
and  warm  the  cold,  barren  soils,  and  bring  them 
into  high  condition.  In  fact  —  having  a  good 
exposure  to  begin  with  —  by  drainage,  deep  tilth, 
generous  and  judicious  manuring  and  irrigation, 
as  required,  the  most  barren  spot  on  earth  can  be 
made  as  highly  productive  as  any  other  soil,  even 
the  richest.  It  is  only  a  question  of  time  and 
expense.  Accordingly  it  has  been  said,  not  with- 
out some  truth,  that  after  all  the  chief  matter  in 
choosing  a  location  is  its  convenience  to  markets  of 
sale  and  supply;  because  if  the  soil  be  never  so 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

unfavourable  the  owner  can  make  it  over  to  suit 
himself,  while  if  he  is  remote  from  market  he  can 
do  nothing  to  help  himself  as  regards  that  diffi- 
culty. All  these  considerations  have  weight,  and 
must  be  duly  allowed  for;  but  the  point  I  desire 
most  to  insist  upon  is  the  advantages  possessed 
by  the  loams  lying  on  sandy  or  gravelly  subsoils, 
in  their  excellent  natural  drainage,  and  in  being 
easy  of  cultivation. 

LAND     DRAINAGE 

Land,  Soil,  or  Agricultural  Drainage  is  a  topic 
already  touched  upon,  because  inevitably  presenting 
itself  in  connection  with  the  choice  of  a  proper 
location;  but  it  is  quite  too  large  a  subject  to 
be  dismissed  with  a  brief  and  merely  casual 
mention. 

In  selecting  a  location  for  either  market  garden- 
ing or  farming,  it  is  preferable,  as  we  have  said,  to 
secure  land  that  is  naturally  well  drained.  By 
this  description  we  designate  a  soil  which,  owing 
to  inclination  of  surface,  or  from  having  a  porous 
subsoil,  lets  the  water  pass  off  quickly  after  a  heavy 
rainfall,  and  which  therefore  stands  in  no  need  of 

[10] 


LAND  DRAINAGE 

artificial  drainage.  But  it  is  not  always  possible 
to  secure  such  a  location,  and  in  many  cases  arti- 
ficial drainage  is  the  only  means  by  which  the  best 
of  farming  land  can  be  brought  under  cultiva- 
tion. 

It  would  be  impossible  in  a  volume  of  this 
size,  even  if  wholly  devoted  to  the  topic,  to  give 
a  complete  description,  with  all  details  of  methods 
and  materials  employed,  for  constructing  the 
tile  drains  now  in  general  use.  We  can  only  hope 
to  give  a  few  detached  suggestions  on  the  subject, 
such  as  may  be  of  benefit  to  our  readers  in  improv- 
ing waste  land,  and  in  rendering  heavy,  soggy  fields 
more  tillable,  and  turning  to  account  their  natural 
fertility. 

Amongst  all  the  various  ways  of  constructing 
permanent  drains  —  with  stone,  brush,  square  and 
sole  tile,  etc.  —  it  has  become  the  well-established 
general  opinion  that  well-burned  round  tiles,  with 
collars,  if  well  laid,  form  the  best.  And  in 
the  long  run  they  also  prove  the  cheapest; 
although  at  first  more  expensive  than  some  other 
devices. 

Cobble-stone  drains,  such  as  in  some  localities 
are  largely  used  in  place  of  tile,  are,  when  properly 

[11] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

laid,  actually  more  costly.  And  still  more  objec- 
tionable is  the  fact  that,  although  in  some  instances 
they  may  last  a  long  time  and  prove  quite  service- 
able, they  are  always  liable  to  be  reached  by 
surface  water,  which,  by  carrying  silt  into  them, 
stops  them  up,  and  of  course  renders  them 
useless. 

The  general  principles  to  be  observed  in  laying 
a  stone  drain  are  quite  well  understood.  But  a 
mistake  is  often  made  by  lack  of  diligence  in 
securing  proper  covering,  and  especially  by  resort- 
ing to  the  use  of  turf,  which  is  often  dumped  in 
upon  the  stones,  and  which,  when  decayed,  forms 
the  most  effective  possible  material  for  obstruct- 
ing the  drain. 

There  are  many  ways  of  constructing  cheap 
drains  of  brush,  slabs,  poles,  etc.,  but  they  are 
sure  to  clog  up  and  create  trouble  sooner  or  later; 
and,  as  we  have  said  before,  the  round  tile  when 
well  laid,  generally  speaking,  forms  the  cheapest 
and  most  satisfactory  means  of  draining. 

In  planning  for  the  draining  of  a  field,  the 
chiefly  important  item  is  to  take  notice  of  the 
lowest  point;  at  which  the  outlet  must  be  formed. 
If  a  natural  watercourse  can  be  found  near  by, 

[12] 


LAND  DRAINAGE 

as  much  as  four  or  five  feet  lower  than  the  lowest 
surface  of  the  field,  it  will  be  a  great  saving,  both 
as  regards  expense  and  trouble.  The  ditch  by 
which  the  water  is  carried  from  the  outlet  must  be 
of  sufficient  capacity  to  serve  its  purpose  at  all 
times  and  seasons  in  a  thoroughly  adequate 
manner. 

The  laying  out  of  mains,  sub-mains,  and  laterals 
must  depend  wholly  upon  the  character  and 
condition  of  the  land.  More  skill  is  required  to 
lay  out  properly  a  complicated  system  of  drains 
than  to  conduct  any  other  branch  of  the  gardener's 
work;  and  the  designing  of  it  is  a  more  puzzling 
matter  than  people  generally  realize,  until  they 
have  had  some  experience  in  it. 

In  the  brief  space  which  we  can  give  to  the 
subject  it  is  impossible  to  describe  minutely  the 
methods  of  mapping  out  such  a  system;  and  we 
cannot  do  better,  therefore,  than  to  refer  our 
readers  to  George  E.  Waring,  Jr.'s  able  work  on 
"Draining  for  Profit  and  Draining  for  Health," 
which  is  the  most  complete  work  on  this  subject 
with  which  we  are  acquainted.  Any  one  who 
has  even  a  moderate  amount  of  this  class  of 
improvements  in  contemplation  ought  by  all 

[13] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

means  to  possess  a  copy  of  the  above-named  book, 
and  make  himself  master  of  its  contents  by  careful 
and  diligent  study. 

The  author  recommends  a  general  depth  of 
four  feet  for  drains;  never  admitting  a  less  depth 
unless  where  an  outlet  at  that  depth  cannot  be 
obtained,  or  where  ground  is  underlaid  by  rock. 
There  is  a  general  concurrence  of  opinion  amongst 
those  who  have  most  carefully  examined  the  sub- 
ject, favouring  this  rule  for  the  least  depth.  At 
intermediate  points  occurring  between  such  (mini- 
mum) depths,  the  depth  must  be  often  greater, 
because  the  drain  must  slope  uniformly  from 
point  to  point,  while  the  land  does  not. 

As  regards  the  distance  between  the  drains, 
there  is  a  difference  of  opinion,  in  fact  this  is  a 
question  which  does  not  admit  of  any  exact  or 
definite  solution,  as  it  obviously  depends  in  a  great 
degree  upon  the  peculiar  constitution  of  the  soil, 
which  is  variable;  and,  moreover,  no  amount  of 
practical  experience  even  will  afford  data  for 
reducing  practice  to  any  well-grounded  theoretical 
rule.  It  is  not  feasible  to  state,  in  exact  terms, 
precisely  what  is  the  operation  of  these  subterran- 
ean drains  upon  the  moisture  of  the  soil;  but  an 

[14] 


LAND  DRAINAGE 

idea  sufficiently  definite  for  all  practical  purposes 
may  be  gathered  from  experience. 

In  tolerably  porous  soils,  forty,  or  even  fifty 
feet  apart  is  generally  conceded  to  be  sufficiently 
near  for  four-foot  drains.  But  for  the  more 
retentive  clays,  all  distances  from  eighteen  feet 
to  fifty  have  been  recommended.  The  feeling 
grows  more  in  favour  of  the  greater  width,  from 
continued  observation  of  the  successful  working 
of  drains  so  placed.  Still  the  author's  opinion, 
formed  from  over  twenty  years  of  personal  experi- 
ence and  observation  of  such  works,  and  with 
due  consideration  of  views  published  by  others,  is 
that  we  should  hardly  ever,  where  a  soil  needs 
draining  at  all,  leave  widths  exceeding  forty 
feet. 

He  further  says  that,  in  the  lighter  loams,  there 
has  been  good  success  in  following  Professor 
Mapes's  rule:  that  "three-foot  drains  should  be 
placed  twenty  feet  apart,  and  for  each  additional 
foot  in  depth  the  distance  may  be  doubled.  For 
instance,  four-foot  drains  may  be  forty  feet  apart, 
and  five-foot  drains  eighty  feet  apart."  But  with 
reference  to  this  greater  distance  —  eighty  feet  — 
it  is  not  to  be  recommended  in  stiff  clays  for  any 

[15] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

depth  of  drain.  When  it  is  necessary,  on  account 
of  underlying  rock  or  by  reason  of  insufficient  fall, 
to  go  only  three  feet  deep,  the  drains  should  be 
as  near  together  as  twenty  feet. 

No  great  exactness  can  be  had  in  such  a  matter 
as  this.  In  consideration  of  the  variety  of  soils,  and 
our  inability  to  measure  the  exact  amount  of  water 
to  be  drawn  off  (which  is  never  a  constant 
quantity),  or  even  the  rate  at  which  it  may  reach 
the  drains  by  percolation  through  any  given  soil, 
uniform  depths  and  distances  cannot  of  course 
be  prescribed  with  any  pretence  to  theoretical 
precision.  A  general  judgment  made  up  from 
experience  and  observation  is  all  that  can  be 
offered. 

For  explanation  of  the  beneficial  influences  of 
draining,  we  must  endeavour  to  realize  some  of 
the  conditions  of  plant  life.  One  of  these  is 
moisture  at  the  roots.  If  drainage  were  attended 
by  a  complete  withdrawal  of  all  the  permanent 
moisture  of  the  soil,  no  one  would  be  its  advocate. 
Some  imagine  that  wherever  executed  it  is  to  the 
detriment  of  the  land's  capacity  for  production, 
though  increasing  its  capacity  for  being  cultivated. 
They  say  "more  tillable  is  not  more  fertile.  Tile 

[16] 


LAND  DRAINAGE 

draining  is  a  craze.  Wholesale  rules  without 
discrimination  are  a  curse.  Drained  lands  are 
not  invariably  better  than  the  same  lands 
undrained,"  etc. 

But  we  maintain  that  in  all  soils  not  naturally 
well  drained  (and  so  not  requiring  it)  draining 
does  as  much  good  by  promoting  moisture  during 
periods  of  drought,  as  by  removal  of  the  surplus 
water,  which  would  otherwise  destroy  the  pro- 
ductive capacity  of  the  land.  This  is  due  to  the 
fact  that  the  deeper  tilth  and  pulverization  of  the 
drained  lands  enable  them  to  hold  in  saturation, 
as  water  is  held  in  a  sponge,  valuable  stores  of 
water  to  be  given  off  a  little  at  a  time,  as  needed, 
and  also  to  draw  up  from  below,  by  capillary 
attraction,  similar  timely  supplies  —  while  all 
excess  and  surplus  is  promptly  gotten  rid  of. 

A  published  work  by  A.  N.  Cole  contains  sug- 
gestions of  interest  in  this  connection.  We  have 
suggested  that  the  most  perfect  drainage  does  not 
aim  at  a  complete  withdrawal  of  all  the  moisture; 
water  is  essential  to  plant  life,  but  the  land  must  not 
be  drowned  with  water.  Air  and  water  both  must 
be  presented  to  the  feeding  roots.  He  says, 
"  Tilled  land  being  porous,  the  air  forces  its  way 

[17] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

into  the  crevices,  and  the  water  (of  rains)  passes 
through  it  from  above.  We  will  suppose  that  the 
water  comes  to  a  stratum  that  is  impervious  to  its 
onward  course.  What  happens?  Simply  this: 
it  dams  up  slowly,  inch  by  inch,  forcing  out  the 
air  as  it  rises.  All  motion  and  circulation  is 
stopped.  Fermentation  and  decomposition  soon 
begin.  The  earth  is  drowned  out  —  suffocated  — 
dead  for  want  of  air.  Water  is  good  for  the 
ground  ?  Yes ;  but  not  in  this  way.  The  water 
must  be  moving  constantly.  There  must  be  a 
current  of  air  and  wrater,  and  not  too  much  or 
too  little  of  the  latter." 

The  processes  of  pulverization,  which  will  be 
described  under  the  title  "Preparation  of  the  Soil," 
are  such  as  to  provide  for  the  admission  of  the  air. 
We  shall  now  consider,  in  the  remainder  of  the 
present  chapter,  by  what  means  we  may  supply 
the  needful  amount  of  the  other  indispensable 
element,  water.  By  drainage  we  provide  for  the 
removal  of  a  surplus,  whether  from  rains  or 
springs;  our  next  care  must  be  for  supply  and 
distribution  of  a  quantity  adequate,  in  the  longest 
and  severest  droughts,  to  the  exacting  needs  of 
the  growing  crops.  This  supply  and  dis- 

[18] 


IRRIGATION  OF  CROPS 

tribution    constitute    what    is    intended    by    the 
term    "Irrigation." 

IRRIGATION    OF    CROPS 

Artificial  watering,  especially  as  now  conducted, 
forms  perhaps  one  of  the  most  important  subjects 
that  we  could  write  upon.  All  vegetables  are  com- 
posed largely  of  water,  some  containing  more 
than  75  per  cent.  A  single  hill  of  cucumbers, 
as  has  been  said,  will  drink  half  a  barrelful  of 
water  in  three  days'  time,  and,  having  done  so, 
will  begin  languishing  for  lack  of  moisture,  and 
die  in  a  week.  According  to  Dr.  J.  H.  Gilbert, 
for  every  ton  of  dry  substance  grown,  in  an  average 
crop,  an  amount  of  water  equivalent  to  three 
inches  of  rain  is  exhaled  in  the  process;  which 
amounts  to  about  two  hundred  times  the  weight  of 
the  vegetable  product.  And  Sir  J.  B.  Lawes 
arrived  at  substantially  the  same  result  by  his 
own  researches,  separately  prosecuted.  Hence  it 
will  be  readily  seen  that,  unless  there  is  moisture 
enough  when  the  crop  requires  it,  there  will  be  a 
shortage  in  the  harvest. 

What  is  commonly  called  an  "impoverished 

[19] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

soil,"  or  one  considered  naturally  unfertile,  may 
be  in  fact  good  enough  in  itself,  its  only  deficiency 
being  in  the  matter  of  moisture.  We  often  see 
a  poor  piece  of  land  yielding  a  good  crop  in  a 
wet  season;  and  artificial  watering  on  a  grand 
scale  has,  in  many  well-known  instances  in  Colo- 
rado, California,  and  elsewhere,  both  at  home 
and  abroad,  converted  absolute  deserts  into  pro- 
ductive grain  farms  and  fruit  and  cattle  ranches. 
Although  the  rainfall  during  each  year  averages 
about  the  same  now  as  in  former  periods,  the 
seasons  are  changing  in  this  respect:  that  the 
rainfall  is  not  so  evenly  divided,  and  we  get  longer 
and  more  protracted  droughts;  not  relieved  by 
the  fact  that  the  rainfalls,  when  they  do  come, 
are  heavier.  For  this  reason  the  subject  of  irri- 
gation is  constantly  gaining  in  importance.  It 
involves  questions,  both  in  regard  to  the  supply  of 
water  and  the  manner  of  applying  it.  Of  course 
there  are  many  cases  where  land  is  not  located 
so  as  to  be  easily  irrigated.  Whatever  the  location 
is,  no  matter  if  quite  favourable,  it  will  require 
careful  management  in  laying  out  the  rows  and 
planting  the  crops,  to  secure  a  plan  which  will 
allow  of  irrigating  to  the  best  advantage.  The 

[20] 


IRRIGATION  OF  CROPS 

rows  should  always  run  up  and  down  the  slope 
of  ground,  and  more  or  less  obliquely  if  the  ground 
is  at  all  steep  (instead  of  crosswise),  so  as  to  allow 
of  watering  in  the  furrow,  which  is  the  proper 
way,  as  the  moisture  is  required  to  be  applied 
to  the  roots  and  not  the  foliage. 

One  excellent  method  of  applying  moisture  to 
the  soil  consists  in  sending  water  through  lines 
of  tiles  properly  laid  in  the  ground,  with  joints 
slightly  open  between  each  tile  and  the  next  one  — 
a  method  mostly  practised  on  low  lands.  The 
distribution  of  the  moisture  is  accomplished  very 
successfully,  by  stopping  the  lowest  end  of  each 
line  of  tiles  and  filling  into  it  from  the  highest 
point.  This  method  I  would  recommend  for 
low  and  heavy  lands;  because  if  water  were  to 
be  applied  to  the  surface,  the  soil  would  harden 
and  an  injury  to  the  growing  crop  would  result. 
On  sandy  lands  the  largest  benefit  will  be  derived 
by  running  it  over  the  surface  about  once  a  week; 
applying  about  one  inch  at  a  time-,  which  is  above 
the  average  quantity  resulting  from  a  good  rain- 
fall in  our  New  England  climate. 

When  the  rainfalls  are  of  average  amount  and 
come  with  uniformity,  no  addition  by  way  of 

[21] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

irrigation  is  required;  but  when,  as  is  very  often  the 
case,  no  rain  falls  for  two  or  three  weeks  or  more, 
it  may  become  necessary  to  make  two  or  three 
applications.  Irrigation  by  watering  the  foliage 
is  not  recommended,  except  under  glass,  where 
it  is  often  necessary,  and  can  be  applied  without 
injury  to  the  growing  crop. 

It  is  better  to  water  under  glass  on  a  pleasant 
day  than  on  a  stormy  or  cloudy  one;  but  in  the 
field  a  cloudy  one  would  be  preferred,  if  the  water 
was  to  be  applied  so  as  to  wet  the  foliage. 

There  are  numerous  market  gardeners  at  the 
present  time  who  have  abundant  facilities  for 
supplying  themselves  with  water  for  irrigation; 
though  it  has  only  been  secured,  ordinarily,  by 
a  liberal  outlay. 

Although  many  places  are  located  near  towns 
or  cities  which  have  a  public  water  supply,  they 
cannot  be  allowed  to  draw  from  the  supply  in 
such  large  quantities  as  are  required  for  purposes 
of  irrigation,  as  the  need  would  come  at  a  time 
when  the  water  was  the  lowest  in  the  reservoir, 
and  was  most  in  demand  for  other  purposes.  It 
is,  therefore,  necessary  that  the  land  to  be  irrigated 
should  be  located  near  a  pond,  lake,  or  stream, 

[22] 


IRRIGATION  OF  CROPS 

or  resort  must  be  had  to  undercurrents  of  water 
that  may  be  reached  by  a  driven  well. 

I  much  prefer  to  pump  from  wells  in  all  cases, 
because  in  the  summer  the  water  from  ponds  or 
rivers  is  quite  warm,  while  that  from  wells  is 
cool,  and  this  coolness  will  be  an  advantage  to  the 
crop,  especially  if  the  ground  is  very  dry  and  hot, 
as  is  often  the  case;  and  again  in  winter,  if  taken 
from  ponds  or  rivers,  is  very  cold,  and  could  not 
be  put  upon  the  plants  until  it  had  been  warmed, 
while  that  taken  from  wells  would  be  at  a  proper 
temperature  to  be  applied  immediately.  For 
these  reasons  I  have  always  preferred  the  wells; 
and  have  always  used  them. 

Pumps  used  for  irrigating  are  of  three  kinds, 
depending  on  their  motive  power,  namely,  wind- 
mills, steam  pumps  and  gasoline  pumps.  For  those 
who  can  afford  the  outlay  it  is  much  the  better 
plan  to  have  a  windmill  with  either  of  the  others. 

The  windmill  will  do  the  cheapest  pumping 
but  when  it  does  not  pump  a  sufficient  quantity 
then  the  other  motive  power  can  be  used. 

My  experience  with  steam  power  has  been 
much  more  extensive  than  with  gasoline  engines, 
and  for  that  reason  in  the  following  pages  I  will 

[23] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
discuss  principally  pumping  by  steam.  However, 
gasoline  pumps  are  being  used  more  extensively 
every  year,  and  it  may  be  an  open  question  whether 
they  can  do  the  work  at  less  expense.  In  many 
places  there  are  elevated  ponds  or  rivers  that  can 
be  caused  to  flow  by  gravity  to  the  point  desired, 
either  through  closed  conduits  or  pipes,  or  in 
open  canals;  when  such  is  the  case,  no  pumping 
is  necessary. 

After  a  sufficient  supply  of  water  is  found,  and 
a  method  of  raising  it  to  a  proper  height  for  dis- 
tribution, by  the  use  either  of  steam  pumps  or 
windmills,  or  both  —  a  tank  or  reservoir  of  the 
largest  attainable  capacity  must  next  be  provided 
for  the  purpose  of  storing  the  water  so  raised 
until  it  can  properly  be  distributed  to  the  crops. 
Where  windmills  are  used,  for  obvious  reasons, 
the  storage  capacity  must  be  greater  than  where 
steam  pumps  are  employed.  This  may  amount 
to  a  considerable  addition  to  the  first  cost;  but, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  cost  of  steam  pump  and 
boiler  is  somewhat  greater,  and  the  running 
expenses  considerably  so.  There  are  incidental 
advantages  attending  the  use  of  steam  which  may 
be  of  great  importance.  The  preference  must 

[24] 


IRRIGATION  OF  CROPS 

depend  upon  one's  situation;    as  above  said,  it 
will  pay  to  have  both. 

The  expense  of  fitting  up  such  an  arrangement 
for  irrigating  a  market  garden  is  not  so  large 
that  gardeners  should  say  they  cannot  afford  it. 
At  present  prices  and  in  the  light  of  our  present 
experience,  we  can  reckon  the  cost  at  figures 
much  lower  than  five  years  ago.  If  one  has  not 
the  means  to  pay  for  these  facilities,  and  does 
not  feel  warranted  in  going  into  debt  for  what 
one  wants,  of  course  one  must  do  without  them, 
and  depend  on  transient  watering  from  summer 
showers.  But  it  becomes  more  and  more  evident 
every  year  that  such  a  course  will  ruin  the  man 
who  follows  it.  The  ill  effects  of  the  increasing 
irregularity  of  the  rainfall  are  mitigated,  it  is  true, 
by  deeper  ploughing  and  the  construction  of  drain- 
age works,  but  all  crops  (some  more  than  others), 
in  addition  to  every  other  aid  that  can  be  given 
them,  will  need  besides,  at  certain  times,  abundant 
watering.  Even  in  the  most  favourable  seasons, 
resort  must  be  had  to  artificial  watering  at  inter- 
vals, to  secure  the  growing  and  maturing  of  a  crop 
such  as  to  give  satisfaction,  and  reward  the  gar- 
dener for  his  labour. 

[25] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

Unfortunately  we  do  not  know  from  one  day 
to  another  what  weather  to  expect,  whether  a 
deluge  or  a  drought.  We  are  in  constant  fear 
lest  the  shower  that  comes  to-day  may  be  the 
last  for  a  month;  yet  we  have  to  put  the  water 
on  lightly  for  fear  there  may  be  a  deluge  the  next 
day.  One  inch  of  water  at  any  one  time  is  all 
that  is  safe  to  apply.  If  there  is  no  rain  for  a 
week,  then  another  inch;  and  so  on  through  the 
season,  as  the  necessity  appears.  I  think  that 
one  inch  of  water  over  the  surface  once  a  week 
will  keep  any  crop  growing  in  the  driest  weather. 

A  good  steam  pump  will  supply  that  amount 
over  one  acre  of  land  through  a  three- inch  pipe 
in  six  hours.  For  about  nine  months  of  the 
year  a  windmill  would  furnish  all  the  water 
required  by  a  market  garden,  but  during  the 
other  three  months  a  steam  pump  would  be 
required  in  addition  in  order  to  furnish  a  suffi- 
cient supply  for  all  seasons. 

On  a  later  page  we  shall  present  a  cut  of  a  com- 
pact and  serviceable  steam  apparatus  designed 
for  pumping,  under  Deane's  patent.  It  combines 
all  the  essential  features  needed  for  drawing 
water  from  the  source  of  supply  (well,  spring, 

[26] 


IRRIGATION  OF  CROPS 

stream,  pond,  or  tank),  and  forcing  the  water 
any  distance  and  height  to  a  point  suitable  for 
distributing  it,  by  gravity,  over  the  land  to  be 
irrigated;  or,  as  frequently  practised,  forcing  it 
through  pipes  to  hydrants,  where  hose  can  be 
used  for  further  distribution.  In  some  cases  the 
hose  may  run  directly  from  the  pump.  It  is 
much  more  easily  understood  and  managed  than 
might  be  supposed,  owing  to  the  simplicity  and 
compact  style  of  its  construction.  It  is  claimed 
to  be  the  simplest  arrangement  of  the  kind  on  the 
market,  and  such  that  any  one  of  ordinary  intel- 
ligence can  learn  to  operate  it  in  half  a  day.* 
The  easiest  and  often  the  best  way  of  leading 
the  water  to  various  localities  at  will  is  by  the  use  of 
rubber  hose;  this  is  cheaper  than  pipe,  which  is 
heavy,  and  very  awkward  to  handle.  It  is  often 
found  practicable  to  obtain  rejected  steam  fire- 
engine  hose  which,  although  not  strong  enough 
to  stand  the  pressure  of  the  steam  fire-engines,  is 
amply  strong  enough  to  use  for  irrigating.  There 
is  seldom  more  than  thirty  pounds'  pressure,  as 
the  water  is  not  forced,  but  is  allowed  to  run 
through  the  open  hose.  The  amount  of  land  that 

*  Consult  Chapter  Seven. 

[27] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

can  be  irrigated  by  the  use  of  a  steam  pump  in  a 
day  of  twelve  hours  is  about  three  acres.  By 
using  a  suitable  pump  we  can  throw  one  hundred 
gallons  per  minute,  which,  in  a  day  of  twelve 
hours,  would  be  equivalent  to  covering  three  acres 
more  than  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  deep;  equiva- 
lent in  quantity  to  what  we  should  call  an  abund- 
ant fall  of  rain ;  —  indeed,  it  is  rather  more  than 
an  average  of  rainfalls,  and  certainly  we  cannot 
believe  there  is  ever  an  acre  of  growing  crop  which, 
in  a  dry  time,  would  not  be  benefited  by  such  a 
watering  to  an  amount  much  more  than  the  cost; 
though  many  people  shrink  from  the  expense 
involved,  and  are  skeptical  about  getting  full 
return  for  the  outlay. 

But  certainly  where  water  can  be  had  in  ample 
quantity,  and  can  be  applied  at  such  moderate 
cost  as  may  be  inferred  from  the  foregoing  state- 
ments, it  must  be  plain  to  every  one,  and, 
practically,  every  one  does  now  believe  that  it 
will  and  does  pay,  in  frequent  instances  earning 
many  times  over  the  amount  it  costs.  It  has 
oftentimes  occurred  that  such  watering,  once 
or  oftener  applied,  has  saved  a  crop  that,  without 
it,  would  have  been  a  complete  failure.  For 

[28] 


IRRIGATION  OF  CROPS 

my  part,  I  would  as  soon  think  of  being  without 
a  steam  pump  as  the  farmer  who  cuts  hay  would 
of  being  without  a  mowing-machine. 

There  is  very  seldom  a  season  so  wet  that  the 
steam  pump  will  not  be  required  two  or  three 
weeks;  and  in  most  seasons  it  will  be  in  use  eight 
or  ten  weeks.  When  the  weather  is  very  dry, 
and  all  the  crops  need  abundant  watering,  the 
pump  should  be  kept  running  night  and  day, 
by  employing  two  sets  of  men.  It  will  be  economy 
to  do  this,  not  only  from  the  fact  that  a  double 
supply  is  thus  obtained,  but  because  when  the 
fire  is  allowed  to  go  out  at  night  it  takes  about  an 
hour  to  get  the  pump  to  running  again.  By 
continuous  running,  time  is  saved  at  both  ends 
of  the  day. 

Be  sure  to  provide  a  good  pump,  one  that  will 
pump  at  least  seventy,  and  better  if  one  hundred, 
gallons  per  minute.  I  do  not  recommend  the 
smaller  pump,  for  it  will  cost  just  as  much  to  run 
one  of  the  small  size,  except  for  a.trifling  difference 
in  the  quantity  of  coal  required;  and  the  price  of 
a  large  pump  is  not  much  more  than  that  of  a 
small  one,  while  it  will  do  many  times  the  work 
with  the  same  labour. 

[29] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
It  takes  one  man  to  run  the  pump  and  one  to 
attend  to  the  hose.  Only  a  very  little  hose  will 
be  required,  if  the  land  is  well  piped  in  the  manner 
following:  I  would  advise  beginning  the  piping 
with  two-and-one-half-inch  cement-lined  pipe 
placed  under  ground  with  hydrants  set  but  a 
short  distance  apart.  Run  one  such  line  from 
the  tank-supply  main  fed  by  the  mill  or  pump, 
as  the  case  may  be,  to  each  of  the  buildings  and 
hot-beds;  and  pipe  for  all  the  outside  culture 
with  three-inch  pipe  of  the  same  class  carried 
above  ground,  and  furnished  with  faucets  suitable 
for  attaching  hose  at  intervals,  so  arranged  that 
the  distance  in  any  direction  from  each  faucet 
to  the  next  shall  not  exceed  seventy-five  or  eighty 
feet.  This  surface-pipe  must  be  taken  up  each 
year  in  the  fall  and  replaced  every  spring. 

Such  arrangements  may  appear  rather  expen- 
sive, but  it  will  save  much  time  in  the  busy  season 
to  have  the  water  carried  to  all  parts  of  the  place. 
On  a  place  of  ten  acres,  the  cost  of  putting  in 
pump,  boiler,  pipes,  and  fittings  need  not  be  over 
$1,000.  I  would  rather  have  a  place  of  ten  acres 
well  fitted  up  for  irrigation,  than  one  of  twenty 
without  irrigation;  and  I  venture  the  assertion 

[30] 


IRRIGATION  OF  CROPS 

that  I  could  raise  more  vegetables,  or  receive 
more  money  for  my  crops,  in  a  period  of  ten  years, 
from  the  ten  acres  irrigated,  than  from  the  twenty 
acres  not  irrigated. 

Any  farm  that  has  been  well  equipped  for 
irrigation,  whether  it  be  one  or  five,  ten  or  twenty 
acres,  will  bring  enough  more  at  any  time,  when 
offered  for  sale,  to  pay  for  the  amount  so  expended. 
Therefore,  the  expense,  beyond  fuel,  labour 
and  repairs,  would  be  only  the  annual  interest 
on  the  cost.  We  will  allow  $50.00  for  interest, 
or  $5.00  per  acre  on  ten  acres.  The  direct  cost 
of  running  pump  for  twenty-four  hours  continu- 
ously, would  consist  of  the  following  items: 
Coal,  $3.00;  skilled  labour,  including  repairs, 
$7.00;  additional  help  in  moving  hose,  $2.00; 
making  a  total  of  $12.00,  to  which  add,  for  wear 
and  tear,  $2.00;  then  we  have  $14.00  as  the  cost, 
exclusive  of  interest,  for  each  watering  of  six 
acres;  or  $2.33  per  acre. 

But  the  total  interest  charge  remaining  un- 
changed, whatever  the  number  of  waterings  made 
in  a  season,  has  to  be  borne  in  equal  shares 
by  all  the  waterings.  The  resulting  cost  for  a 
single  watering  might  be  as  high  as  $7.33  per 

[31] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

acre,  if  it  were  the  only  one  made  that  season; 
but  if  two  applications  are  made,  the  cost  drops 
to  $4.83  per  acre.  In  the  case  of  three,  the 
resulting  cost  for  each  one  will  amount  only  to 
$4.00  per  acre;  and,  where  there  are  four,  only 
$3.58. 

In  the  foregoing  calculation  we  have  reckoned 
on  the  pump  as  discharging  one  hundred  gallons 
a  minute.  The  seventy-gallon  pump  would,  sub- 
stantially, do  the  watering  of  only  four  acres, 
instead  of  six,  within  the  time  computed  for, 
with  but  an  imperceptible  amount  of  saving  on 
the  total  cost  of  the  day's  operations. 

The  practice  of  irrigating  by  the  aid  of  pipes 
and  hydrants  has  only  lately  been  introduced  here, 
and  owing  to  the  great  outlay  involved,  the  method 
is  used  by  comparatively  few.  But  too  much 
cannot  be  said  in  favour  of  irrigation ;  and  the  use 
of  windmills  and  steam  pumps  has  become  well- 
nigh  universal.* 

In  one  instance,  which  was  reported  to  the  Mass- 
achusetts Horticultural  Society,  in  a  severe  drought, 
a  steam  pump  was  rigged,  and  the  water  of  Mystic 
River  was  poured  for  seven  days  and  nights  upon 

"Consult  Chapter  Seven. 

[32] 


IRRIGATION  OF  CROPS 

a  parched  field,  averaging  75,000  gallons  per  day, 
or  a  quantity  equal  to  three  inches  over  the  entire 
surface,  at  a  cost,  including  all  expenses,  of  perhaps 
ten  cents  per  1,000  gallons. 

Somewhat  later,  in  1884,  the  present  writer 
had  six  acres  planted  with  cauliflowers.  This 
is  a  crop  which  does  not  show  the  effect  of  dry 
weather  until  about  to  head;  when,  if  there  is 
danger  of  a  check,  the  application  of  water  will 
cause  them  to  go  right  on.  That  year  the  need 
was  urgent,  and  he  devoted  his  steam  pump  to 
the  work  of  supply  —  running  it  continuously 
for  four  weeks,  with  two  men  by  day  and  two 
to  relieve  them  at  night.  From  these  six  acres 
he  sold  $3,500  worth  of  cauliflowers.  If  he  had 
not  irrigated  them  he  would  not,  probably,  have 
realized  over  $1,000  for  his  crop.  Very  many 
similar  instances  might  be  given. 

In  applying  the  water  to  a  field  of  cabbages  or 
cauliflowers,  the  rows  being  about  three  and  a 
half  feet  apart,  a  plough  is  run  between  the  rows, 
so  as  to  make  a  furrow  for  the  water  to  run  in. 
It  is  a  very  easy  matter  to  water  a  field  where 
the  land  is  on  a  slope,  but  where  it  is  nearly  level 
it  is  much  more  work,  as  the  hose  has  to  be  fre- 

[33] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

quently  transferred  to  different  points  in  order 
to  water  evenly. 

In  watering  a  field  of  celery  a  furrow  is  ploughed 
away  from  the  plants,  on  each  side  of  the  row, 
at  a  distance  of  about  one  foot.  The  furrow 
is  then  filled  with  water;  and  as  soon  as  this  has 
soaked  away  the  furrow  is  turned  back  again. 
An  application  of  this  kind  once  a  week  will  prove 
sufficient  even  in  the  driest  time. 

It  will  be  manifest,  upon  reflection,  that  con- 
tinuous light  waterings  are  not  what  is  desired. 
Water  cannot,  of  course,  be  applied  without 
reducing  the  temperature  of  the  soil  very  materially, 
and  thus  occasioning,  for  the  time,  a  condition 
unfavourable  to  the  advance  of  the  crop.  This 
is  a  matter  for  serious  consideration,  in  connection 
with  many  crops,  especially  in  a  climate  like  ours. 
In  the  case  of  light  waterings,  frequently  repeated, 
a  larger  proportion  disappears  by  immediate 
evaporation,  thus  wasting  work,  and,  moreover, 
by  this  excessive  evaporation,  still  further  and 
needlessly  reducing  the  temperature  of  the  soil. 
Liberal  supplies  at  proper  intervals  are  rather  to 
be  given,  transferring  the  delivery  from  one  section 
of  the  grounds  to  another,  on  successive  days, 

[34] 


IRRIGATION  OF  CROPS 

and  so  continuing  till  it  is  time  to  resume  the  round. 
The  proper  intervals,  in  a  time  of  drought,  may 
be  taken  to  be  about  one  week,  on  the  average, 
though  this  must  vary  with  the  crop,  the  soil,  the 
temperature,  and  the  judgment  of  the  cultivator. 
The  same  variation  may  be  expected  in  estimating 
the  amount  of  water  necessary  for  one  thorough 
irrigation.  No  general  estimate  on  these  points 
can  be  given  that  will  be  at  all  satisfactory,  except 
merely  as  a  rough  rule  for  planning  the  scale  of  the 
works.  In  establishing  such  a  system,  no  great 
nicety  of  calculation  is  likely  to  be  of  any  value. 
The  data  already  given,  and  the  practical  examples 
which  have  been  cited,  will  enable  any  one,  making 
due  allowance  for  variations  of  circumstances, 
to  arrive  at  a  conclusion  near  enough  for  his 
purposes. 


[35] 


CHAPTER    II 

PREPARATION     OF    THE     SOIL  -  LAYING      OUT      OF 

LAND    FOR    THE    DIFFERENT    CROPS  -  ROTATION 

OF    CROPS  -  MANURES  -  THEIR    APPLICATION 


PROPER  preparation  of  the  soil,  prior  to 
sowing  or  planting,  is  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant conditions  involved  in  the  process  of  getting 
a  crop.  We  shall  not  aim  to  discuss  at  length 
the  principles  on  which  it  depends,  but  confine 
ourselves  in  the  main  to  simple  and  practical 
directions  as  to  the  work  to  be  done. 

Ploughing,  subsoiling,  harrowing,  raking,  and 
(at  some  stage  of  the  process)  manuring  —  these 
constitute  the  main  operations  by  which  the  land, 
after  being  stripped  of  a  crop,  is  put  into  condition 
to  be  planted  with  another. 

For  all  market-garden  crops  we  recommend 
that  the  ground  be  ploughed  once  before  an  appli- 
cation of  manure  is  made.  In  the  case  of  all  leaf 
crops,  like  celery,  cabbage,  etc.,  eight  inches 
would  be  a  sufficient  depth  for  this  first  ploughing, 

[36] 


PREPARATION  OF  THE  SOIL 

before  the  manure  is  applied.  For  the  second 
ploughing,  which  is  to  turn  the  manure  under,  a 
depth  of  six  inches  would  be  sufficient,  and  prefer- 
able :  so  as  to  leave  the  manure  as  near  the  surface 
as  possible,  and  still  have  it  covered. 

Then,  if  the  land  is  lumpy  or  hard,  a  wheel 
harrow  or  some  implement  for  breaking  up  the 
lumps  should  be  put  to  service.  Lumpy,  uneven 
ground,  or  coarse  soil,  will  never  do  to  plant  in: 
seeds  will  not  catch  uniformly  or  grow  well  in 
it;  the  plants  will  lack  uniformity,  and  will  not 
mature  together.  The  importance  of  this  matter 
is  too  generally  underrated;  very  few  people  have 
anything  like  an  adequate  idea  of  it.  If  the 
ground  is  to  be  devoted  to  raising  greens,  or  some 
sowed  crop  where  a  drill  is  to  be  employed,  a 
Meeker  harrow  will  smooth  the  surface  nicely, 
so  that  the  seed-sowTer  will  do  its  work  to  satis- 
faction. A  full  description  of  its  operation  may 
be  found  in  the  chapter  treating  on  Farming 
Implements. 

This  harrow  will  prepare  the  surface  sufficiently 
well  for  such  crops  as  onions,  cabbages,  or  beets, 
and  for  spinach  and  other  sorts  of  greens;  but 
for  such  small,  fine  seeds  as  those  of  lettuce, 

[37] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

or  dandelion,  the  hand  rake  must  be  brought 
into  service. 

For  root  crops,  at  the  first  ploughing  a  depth 
of  twelve  inches  would  be  none  too  much.  In 
ploughing  for  deep-rooted  crops,  like  parsnips, 
long  carrots,  or  horseradish,  the  second  ploughing 
should  be  of  eight  inches'  depth;  and  this  should 
be  followed  by  a  "subsoil/'  after  which  use  the 
Meeker  harrow  or  leveller,  as  already  directed. 

After  ploughing  and  harrowing,  it  is  often 
advisable  to  pass  the  roller  over  the  land.  The 
horse  roller  is  a  very  useful  article,  and  is  used 
very  extensively.  When  the  ground  has  been 
harrowed,  and  the  lumps  not  yet  broken  are 
brought  to  the  surface,  the  roller  is  put  on  to 
crush  and  smooth  them  out.  It  is  also  very 
beneficial  on  light  land,  in  dry  weather,  to  help 
the  land  to  retain  a  sufficient  quantity  of  moisture. 
I  have  found  the  use  of  a  good  horse  roller  to  be 
of  great  advantage,  both  in  breaking  up  and 
pulverizing  lumpy  land,  and  in  firming  down 
soil  that  has  been  thrown  up  very  lightly  during 
previous  preparation.  Such  soil,  until  again  com- 
pacted, is  prone  to  become  excessively  dry;  a 
result  which  is  obviated  by  use  of  the  roller.  The 

[38] 


PREPARATION  OF  THE  SOIL 

top  should  be  perfectly  dry  before  rolling,  in  order 
to  obtain  the  desired  effect. 

We  have  already  alluded  to  subsoiling,  and 
wish  to  remark  here  that  the  subsoil  plough  is  a 
valuable,  indeed,  an  indispensably  necessary  imple- 
ment, and  should  be  invariably  put  to  use  in  the 
preparation  of  the  ground  for  all  root  crops.  The 
subsoil  should  follow  after  the  landside  plough, 
in  the  same  furrow,  and  go  down  to  a  depth  of 
fifteen  or  eighteen  inches.  It  usually  takes  two 
horses,  as  the  larger  sizes  of  ploughs  do;  and  it 
is  even  harder  for  the  team  than  common  plough- 
ing. There  are  small  subsoilers  which  can  be 
used  with  one  horse;  but  if  the  land  requires  sub- 
soiling  at  all,  it  is  better  economy  to  use  the  larger 
size  and  do  the  work  more  thoroughly. 

In  the  concluding  chapter,  relating  to  Farm 
Implements,  a  sufficient  description  will  be  given 
of  the  different  ploughs  that  are  likely  to  be 
required,  both  landside  and  subsoil.  At  this 
point  I  wish  to  call  attention  to  .the  great  impor- 
tance of  keeping  them  always  clean  and  bright. 
Never  allow  the  ploughman  to  put  his  plough 
away  with  any  dirt  upon  it.  It  is  the  sure  mark 
of  a  poor  ploughman,  when  his  plough  is  covered 

[39] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

with  dirt,  and  goes  through  the  land  like  a 
stick. 

In  fact,  there  are  but  very  few  good  ploughmen 
to  be  had,  and  any  employer  is  fortunate  if  he 
gets  one.  Many  men  will  call  themselves  good 
at  ploughing;  but  the  men  who  really  understand 
it,  and  do  it  as  it  should  be  done,  are  very  scarce. 
When  such  a  man  is  found,  he  should  be  kept 
on  the  place,  if  possible. 

In  ploughing  land  for  the  different  crops, 
some  plough  about  the  same  depth  for  everything; 
but  the  depth  ought  to  be  varied  so  as  to  suit  the 
crop.  For  instance:  all  root  crops  should  be 
ploughed  from  ten  to  twelve  inches;  while,  for 
vine  crops,  six  inches  would  be  quite  sufficient. 
Many  take,  in  all  eases,  all  they  can  to  the  furrow, 
making  it,  say,  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  wide; 
but  where  the  land  is  ploughed  twelve  inches 
deep,  and  a  coat  of  manure  is  turned  under  at 
the  same  time,  eight  inches  is  wide  enough  to 
turn  the  furrow.  In  a  "first-time"  ploughing, 
six  inches  deep,  with  no  manure  to  turn  under, 
twelve  or  fourteen  inches  may  be  taken  at  each 
furrow.  Always  plough  all  the  land  once  in  the 
fall  and  twice  in  the  spring,  but  never  when  it 

[40] 


PREPARATION  OF  THE  SOIL 

is  wet.  Soil  that  is  worked  when  very  wet,  except 
sometimes  a  very  sandy  piece,  will  scarcely 
recover  from  it  for  a  whole  season. 

The  purpose  of  the  fall  ploughing  will  be  most 
completely  accomplished  by  leaving  the  land  in 
clods  and  rough,  loose  ridges,  for  the  frost  to 
operate  upon  during  the  winter.  The  greater 
the  surface  thus  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the 
atmosphere  and  changes  of  weather,  the  better 
for  the  soil  and  the  coming  season's  crops.  More- 
over, late  turning  over  the  ground  is  an  effectual 
means  of  killing  off  the  larvae  of  the  May  beetle, 
the  pestilent  white  grub,  and  other  larvae  of  insects. 
Being  disturbed  from  their  winter  quarters,  they 
are  to  a  great  extent  destroyed  by  exposure  to 
the  cold  and  air. 

In  the  case  of  sod  land  to  be  prepared  for 
tilled  crops,  there  is  a  manifest  advantage  in 
turning  it  earlier  in  the  season,  so  as  to  hasten 
the  decay  of  the  turf;  but  with  land  already 
under  cultivation  the  case  is  entirely  different, 
and  the  later  it  can  be  done  the  better. 

It  is,  of  course,  assumed  that  everything  neces- 
sary to  a  perfect  drainage  has  been  done  prior 
to  the  process  of  preparation  here  described. 

[41] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

Wherever  the  water  has  been  extracted  by  drainage, 
it  leaves  a  moderate  moisture  in  the  soil  (until 
withdrawn  by  evaporation  or  taken  up  by  the 
crop),  which  is  exactly  the  condition  most  favour- 
able to  vegetation.  The  various  processes  of 
preparation,  and  later  cultivation,  are  directed 
more  especially  to  the  maintenance  of  this  con- 
dition. 

The  ground  should  be  finely  pulverized  both 
at  and  below  the  surface,  encouraging  the  roots 
to  strike  downward  and  below  the  immediate 
influence  of  the  hot  sun.  The  air  entering  through 
the  fine  interstices  of  the  soil  condenses  its  latent 
moisture  upon  the  cooler  portions  beneath  the 
surface;  thus  contributing  materially  to  the  desired 
moisture,  and  also  aiding  the  chemical  changes 
attendant  upon  plant  growth. 

Another  very  important  result  of  thorough  and 
deep  pulverization  is  the  capacity  afforded  to  the 
soil  of  directly  absorbing  and  holding  rain-water 
which  otherwise  would  flow  off  wastefully,  if 
not  destructively,  on  the  surface.  Any  one  can 
see  for  himself  the  contrast  between  a  soil  which 
has  received  this  thorough  tilth,  and  one  which 
has  not;  the  latter  looks  well  enough  early  in 


LAYING  OUT  LAND  FOR  CROPS 

the  season,  but  is  burned  up  when  the  summer 
heats  begin;  while  the  deep-tilled  land,  on  the 
contrary,  holds  the  moisture  like  a  damp  sponge 
down  below  the  reach  of  the  sun;  and  its  presence 
there  is  plainly  visible  in  the  crop. 

LAYING  OUT  LAND  FOR  CROPS 

A  careful  and  definite  plan,  to  be  adhered  to 
with  as  much  strictness  as  the  nature  of  the  case 
will  admit,  is  essentially  necessary  at  the  very 
outset  of  operations.  If  one  is  well  acquainted 
with  the  land  one  is  cultivating,  and  knows  what 
crops  have  been  grown  on  each  portion  of  it 
the  previous  season,  of  course  one  can  make  one's 
plans  accordingly.  But  if  it  be  the  first  season 
of  one's  occupation  the  arrangements  must  of 
necessity  be  guided  by  such  information  as  one 
has.  In  that  case,  they  will  be  partly  experimental, 
and  changes  will  be  from  time  to  time  inevitably 
incurred;  but  this  disadvantage  should  be  avoided 
as  far  as  careful  attention  to  the  subject  will  enable 
one. 

It  is  a  good  idea,  when  practicable,  to  have  a 
plan  of  the  garden  on  paper,  and  to  have  this 

[43] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
made  during  the  winter;  so  that  the  intended 
arrangement  of  crops  can  be  mapped  out  for  the 
coming  season.  This  will,  of  course,  be  a  con- 
venient guide  in  placing  the  manure  for  each 
crop  at  the  point  where  it  is  to  be  used,  in  pro- 
curing supplies  of  seed,  and  also  in  many  other 
details. 

In  mapping  out  a  field  in  this  manner,  a  person 
must  of  course  understand  the  rotation,  or  suc- 
cession, of  crops,  in  order  to  do  the  mapping 
intelligently;  and  accordingly  we  shall  proceed 
to  consider  this  subject  next  in  order. 

ROTATION     OF     CROPS 

The  right  succession  of  crops  for  enabling  the 
cultivator  to  obtain  paying  results,  both  in  the 
harvests  to  be  gathered  first  and  in  condition  of 
the  soil  for  further  culture,  has  always  been  a 
subject  of  much  importance  to  every  tiller  of  the 
soil;  and  is  also  interesting  from  a  scientific  point 
of  view. 

The  difference  between  the  old  style  of  summer 
fallowing  and  the  present  well-understood  plans 
of  rotation  is  so  considerable  that  the  two  ways 

[44] 


ROTATION  OF  CROPS 

are  styled  by  some  the  "old"  and  "new"  agri- 
cultures. 

Under  the  old  system,  an  occasional  year  of 
fallowing  was  relied  upon  to  rest  the  ground  and 
renew  the  plant  food  in  the  soil,  so  that  in  the 
succeeding  year  a  larger  yield  could  be  obtained 
than  if  the  land  had  been  cropped  continuously. 

Fallowing,  although  of  benefit  in  some  respects, 
is  wasteful  in  two  ways.  The  land  of  course  is 
yielding  no  income  in  the  idle  year;  here  there 
is  a  loss  of  interest  on  capital.  And  then,  too,  as 
I  am  persuaded,  there  is  always  more  or  less  waste 
and  loss  of  plant  food  going  on  from  any  soil  that 
is  left  exposed  to  the  sun  and  rain  during  the 
summer  months.  At  least  two  and  often  three 
crops  in  a  year  with  constant  tilth  (including,  with 
other  benefits  to  the  soil,  the  suppression  of  all 
weeds  and  wild  growth)  represent  the  "new" 
method.  It  is  decidedly  in  contrast  with  the  old 
at  all  points  —  and  seems  at  all  points  to  have  the 
advantage  of  it. 

The  correct  theory  of  rotation  proposes,  while 
making  immediate  use  of  the  plant  food  already 
in  the  soil,  at  the  same  time  to  prepare  the  soil  for 
producing  the  other  crops  that  are  next  to  follow. 

[45] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

In  arranging  for  a  system  of  rotation,  we  should 
aim  to  grow  such  crops  and  under  such  culture 
as  will  keep  the  soil  well  supplied  with  humus, 
or  plant  food. 

No  exact  rules  can  be  laid  down  as  to  the  order 
in  which  crops  should  be  planted  in  rotation,  but  it 
should  be  remembered  that  some  plants  by  nature 
feed  near  the  surface  (like  corn,  for  instance), 
while  others,  take  clover,  for  example,  draw  the 
most  of  their  nourishment  from  deep  down  in  the 
soil. 

The  object  should  be  always  to  avoid  following 
one  deep-rooted  crop  by  a  similar  one;  taking 
great  care  to  alternate  them  with  others  as  con- 
stantly as  possible.  It  is  well,  when  practicable, 
to  follow  a  slow-growing  crop  with  one  of  quick 
growth,  or  vice  versa.  No  root  crop  should  follow 
one  of  a  similar  character;  nor  should  vines 
follow  vines.  Alternation  is  always  beneficial. 
Onions  are  very  generally  regarded  as  an  excep- 
tion to  this  general  rule,  and  to  some  extent  they 
doubtless  are  so;  but  I  have  not  found  it  advisable 
to  grow  them  on  the  same  ground  many  con- 
secutive years,  as  they  are  far  more  likely  to 
become  maggoty,  and  otherwise  diseased,  than 

[46] 


ROTATION  OF  CROPS 

when  the  ground  is  changed  once  in  two  or  three 
seasons. 

There  is  considerable  truth  in  the  suggestion 
that  a  good  rotation  can  only  be  had  when  con- 
ducted by  competent  management,  as  hinted  in 
the  following  extract  from  Wilmer  Atkinson: 
"The  rotation  that  is  wanted  is  the  one  that  will 
rotate  most  fertility  into  the  farm  and  most  cash 
into  the  pocket.  Differing  soils,  differing  advan- 
tages or  disadvantages  of  markets,  differing  de- 
grees of  knowledge  and  experience  in  the  growing 
and  handling  of  certain  crops  are  among  the  many 
elements  that  enter  into  the  question.  In  any 
case,  it  must  be  the  one  that  will  yield  the  largest 
amount  of  sale  product,  with  which  to  meet  cur- 
rent expenses  of  business  and  living,  and  at  the 
same  time  store  increase  of  fertility  in  the  land  for 
future  use." 

Just  what  this  is  appears  to  him  a  doubtful  ques- 
tion, quite  too  intricate  to  be  discussed,  and  on 
which  it  would  be  quite  impracticable  for  one  far- 
mer to  advise  another.  On  the  contrary,  we  hold 
that  accumulated  experience  has  settled  many 
points  in  a  way  not  likely  to  be  reversed,  and 
affords  much  valuable  aid  in  promoting  the  objects 

[47] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

on  which  all  are  agreed:  immediate  cash  returns 
and  future  productiveness  of  the  soil. 

The  subject  of  the  judicious  succession  of  crops 
will  be  repeatedly  reverted  to,  and  illustrated  by 
many  practical  examples,  fully  explained.  These 
will  be  found  in  the  cultural  directions  which 
accompany  our  descriptions  of  the  different  vege- 
tables, hereafter  given  in  this  book. 

MANURES     AND     FERTILIZERS 

The  provision,  preparation  and  use  of  manures 
and  fertilizers  is  one  of  the  most  important  and 
diversified  subjects  in  the  whole  business  of  mar- 
ket gardening;  and  to  cover  these  points  advan- 
tageously and  economically  involves  a  very  con- 
siderable amount  both  of  thought  and  labour. 

In  my  own  practice,  the  dressing  that  is  usually 
supplied  per  acre  for  growing  the  two  or  three 
crops  which  it  is  customary  to  obtain  each  year 
from  garden  land  consists  of  from  twenty  to  twenty- 
five  cords  of  well-decomposed  stable  manure,  put 
on  broadcast. 

The  manner  of  applying  depends  somewhat  on 
the  crop;  and  many  special  instructions  will  be 

[48] 


MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS 

given  in  the  cultural  directions  which  are  furnished 
with  our  descriptions  of  various  vegetables.  In 
general,  however,  the  manure  is  either  spread  in 
advance  of  the  first  ploughing,  and  then  turned 
under,  or  is  put  on  after  the  ground  has  been 
worked  once,  being  then  worked  in  with  the  second 
ploughing.  The  distribution  of  the  manure  is 
generally  by  the  use  of  tip-carts,  as  there  is  no 
spreader  now  in  use  that  will  put  on  twenty  cords 
per  acre  by  once  going  over. 

During  the  summer,  fall  and  winter,  manure  for 
the  succeeding  season  is  hauled  out  from  the  city. 
The  sources  of  supply  are  the  large  stables,  from 
which  the  accumulations  of  manure  must  be 
removed  at  brief  intervals  all  through  the  year. 
It  is  usually  piled  in  some  place  near  where  it  is 
to  be  used.  However,  during  the  summer,  it  is 
my  usual  practice  to  put  it  into  my  cellars,  and 
there  let  the  hogs  work  it  over  until  fall.  This 
manure,  so  prepared,  is,  in  my  judgment,  the  best 
I  have,  and  is  used  for  growing  cabbages  as  well 
as  other  vegetables;  although  many  people  do  not 
consider  hog  manure  desirable  for  that  crop. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  winter  this  is  teamed  out 
upon  the  fields  where  it  is  to  be  used;  the  cellar 

[49] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

is  then  filled  again,  and  its  contents  remain  in  it 
until  spring.  All  the  manure  which  is  drawn  from 
the  city  in  the  summer  and  fall  is  overhauled  in 
the  early  winter,  and  is  again  worked  over  in  the 
spring  before  applying  it  to  the  land.  It  will  then 
be  quite  fine,  and  fitted  for  nourishing  any  kind 
of  crop. 

In  distributing  the  manure,  to  put  on  twenty- 
five  cords  to  the  acre,  reckoning  four  tip-cart  loads 
to  the  cord,  requires  one  hundred  loads;  making 
three  piles  to  the  load,  we  shall  have  piles  twelve 
feet  apart  each  way.  In  applying  twenty  cords 
to  the  acre,  still  reckoning  four  tip-cart  loads  to  the 
cord  and  three  piles  to  the  load,  we  shall  have  piles 
twelve  by  fifteen  feet  apart.  In  applying  fifteen 
cords  to  the  acre,  with  loads  and  piles  as  before, 
we  shall  have  piles  sixteen  by  fifteen  feet  apart. 

This  last-named  amount  is  one  which  is  seldom 
used  in  a  market  garden,  except  where  one  crop 
is  to  occupy  the  ground  through  the  whole  season. 
Where  two  crops  are  to  be  grown  with  one  appli- 
cation of  manure,  the  second  amount  is  the  one  to 
be  used;  and  where  three  are  to  be  grown,  use  the 
first-named  amount. 

It  is  very  wasteful  to  expose  manure  unneces- 

[50] 


MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS 

sarily  to  sun  and  wind.     Never  spread  manure 
one  day  to  be  ploughed  in  the  next. 

It  may  not  be  amiss  to  mention,  lest  its  impor- 
tance should  be  overlooked  or  underestimated,  the 
great  advantage  of  taking  care,  in  spreading  the 
manure,  to  do  it  evenly,  and  so  that  the  heaps 
shall  not  be  made  to  overlap.  One  heap  is  then 
made  to  join  up  to  another,  and  the  whole  ground 
fares  alike  as  regards  the  supply  of  manure.  This 
seems  obvious  enough,  and  practical  works  on 
farming  already  have  sought  to  enforce  this  view. 
But,  as  we  read  in  one  recently  published,  "there  is 
more  in  this  point  than  is  generally  supposed  by 
farmers,  who,  in  many  cases,  are  careless  and 
wasteful  in  this  respect,  giving  too  much  in  some 
places  and  too  little  in  others.  The  consequence  is 
uneven  growth  over  the  different  parts  of  the  field; 
perhaps  rank  in  some  places,  and  in  others  a  half- 
starved  crop." 

The  same  writer  suggests  another  important 
point  in  spreading,  which  is  to  break  up  the  lumps 
and  scatter  the  manure  about  in  a  fine  state;  unless 
this  is  done  the  field  cannot  be  evenly  fertilized. 
There  is  work  about  this,  and  some  hired  men 
will  neglect  and  avoid  it  if  they  are  permitted,  but 

[51] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

it  should  not  only  be  insisted  upon,  but  looked  after, 
and  its  faithful  performance  insured.  Solid  man- 
ure should  never  be  allowed  to  ferment,  either  out- 
doors or  under  a  cover,  without  the  presence  of 
absorbent  material  to  take  up  the  gases  evolved 
during  the  process.  This  is  the  basis  upon  which 
the  whole  theory  of  composts  and  management 
of  the  compost  heaps  is  admitted  to  rest. 

As  already  implied,  it  is  necessary  for  green 
manure  to  undergo  fermentation,  in  order  to 
make  its  constituent  elements  available  as  plant 
food.  Some  good  gardeners  insist  that  all  manure 
should  be  thoroughly  fined  before  it  goes  upon 
the  land;  that  none  should  be  carried  on  that 
is  not  as  fine  as  the  soil  upon  which  it  is  to  be 
spread.  It  is  undoubtedly  advantageous  to  con- 
form to  this  rule  as  far  as  is  reasonably  possible. 
However,  green  manure  may  be  applied  in  the 
fall  and  covered  in  with  the  fall  ploughing,  in 
which  case  the  fermentation,  when  it  occurs, 
takes  place  within  the  soil,  making  it  mellow  and 
rich.  At  this  stage,  and  until  the  warm  weather 
of  the  following  spring  induces  fermentation, 
there  can  be  no  waste  of  the  manure  by  soakage 
of  water,  because  it  is  still  insoluble. 

[52] 


MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS 

The  case  is  different  with  fine  compost,  or  with 
the  ordinary  pulverized  commercial  fertilizers, 
the  benefit  from  which  must  be  secured  in  a 
crop  taken  the  same  season,  or  it  may  never  be 
obtained. 

In  case  three  crops  are  to  be  grown  and  the 
third  crop  is  to  be  cabbage  or  celery,  the  appli- 
cation of  about  one-half  ton  of  some  good  commer- 
cial fertilizer  to  each  acre  would  be  very  beneficial. 
It  should  be  put  on  when  the  third  crop  has  made 
about  half  its  growth.  In  many  similar  cases, 
guano,  superphosphate,  bonedust  and  the  like 
may  be  used  in  combination  with  the  stable 
manure  already  in  the  soil,  with  excellent 
results. 

This  use  of  commercial  fertilizers  in  connection 
with  stable  manure  has  become  quite  common 
with  market  gardeners  during  the  past  few  years. 
Some  people  even  have  an  idea  that,  by  the  use 
of  commercial  fertilizers  and  without  any  other 
manuring,  land  can  be  kept  in  <a  proper  state  of 
fertility  and  condition  to  grow  crops,  year  after 
year.  Possibly  this  might  at  times  be  done,  on 
some  soils,  and  where  only  one  crop  each  year 
was  to  be  produced;  but  in  the  market  gardens 

[53] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET   GARDENING 

where  are  grown  several  crops  in  a  single  season, 
maintaining  a  constant  drain  upon  the  nourish- 
ment afforded  by  the  soil,  such  a  plan  would  not 
be  found  to  work  well. 

One  reason  for  this  is  that  where  two  or  three 
crops  are  to  be  grown  during  the  season,  the  par- 
ticular kind  of  fertilizer  which  would  be  required 
by  one  crop  might  be  of  little  or  no  value  to  the 
others.  And  moreover,  it  would  be  a  very  difficult 
matter  to  apply,  from  time  to  time,  sufficient 
quantities  of  commercial  fertilizers  to  carry  all 
the  crops  to  maturity.  But  stable  manure  answers 
well  for  all  crops,  and  so,  if  desired  (though  not 
always  necessary  or  convenient),  enough  can  be 
applied  at  the  time  of  ploughing,  in  the  spring, 
to  carry  all  the  crops  through  the  season. 

Green  or  composted  stable  manure,  besides 
the  increased  store  of  plant  food  it  directly  provides 
for  the  growing  crop,  increasing  its  vigour,  and, 
enabling  it  to  strike  deeper,  has  no  doubt  a  bene- 
ficial effect  upon  the  mechanical  condition  or 
texture  of  the  soil.  This  is  not  the  case  with  the 
commercial  fertilizers,  which,  if  used  without 
the  stable  manure  as  a  corrective,  in  course  of 
time  make  the  land  sodden  and  heavy.  Thus 

[54] 


MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS 

it  will  be  seen  that,  for  various  reasons,  commer- 
cial fertilizers  cannot  wholly  or  even  largely  take 
the  place  of  stable  manure,  while  they  are  never- 
theless much  esteemed  for  use  in  combination 
with  it.  Since  the  use  of  commercial  fertilizers 
has  become  general  the  price  of  stable  manure 
has  decreased;  and  while  the  convenience  of 
procuring  the  former  makes  them  more  particu- 
larly convenient  and  valuable  to  the  stock-feeding 
farmers  (who  are  generally  remote  from  the  city), 
their  introduction  has  also  been  of  much  benefit 
to  the  gardeners  near  the  large  cities,  in  thus 
reducing  the  cost  of  stable  manure.  The  price 
would  be  even  lower  than  it  is,  were  it  not  for  the 
fact  that  large  quantities  are  now  shipped  by  the 
car-load  from  the  cities  to  distant  points,  a 
business  which  has  grown  extensively  in  volume 
the  past  few  years. 

The  old-fashioned  privy-vault  or  cesspool  is 
a  source  of  supply  once  largely  depended  upon, 
but  now  only  rarely  met  with.;  as  the  general 
extension  of  water-works  to  all  the  more  compact 
centres  of  population,  and  even  to  isolated  country 
houses,  has  caused  a  discontinuance  of  the  earlier 
practice  of  allowing  night-soil  to  accumulate, 

[55] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

and    depending    upon    intermittent    removal    by 
carts. 

Still  there  is  sometimes  a  case  of  this  kind  to 
be  dealt  with.  The  owner  of  the  premises,  if  he 
has  facilities,  will  generally  prefer  to  compost  his 
material  on  the  spot,  with  a  liberal  proportion 
of  light,  dry  loam,  rendering  it  perfectly  inoffensive. 
It  is  a  highly  stimulating  fertilizer,  and  may  be 
productive  of  excellent  results  if  discreetly  used. 
When  the  owner's  object  is  simply  to  get  rid  of 
the  contents  of  his  vault  —  although  formerly 
this  was  accomplished  by  bailing  into  wagons 
specially  built  for  the  work  (similar  to  the  offal- 
wagons  now  used  for  collecting  kitchen  refuse)  — 
it  is  found  more  convenient  to  use  an  ordinary 
(tight-built)  cart  or  wagon;  in  this,  earth,  chopped 
straw,  ashes,  street  sweepings  or  any  other  con- 
venient absorbents  are  conveyed  to  the  spot. 
With  earth  and  ashes  a  basin-shaped  receptacle 
is  formed  on  the  ground  adjacent  to  the  cesspool, 
keeping  a  reserve  at  hand  of  absorbent  material 
to  be  added  by  degrees  as  the  work  progresses. 
The  vault  is  then  bailed  out  into  the  space  so 
provided,  and,  its  contents  being  mixed  with  a 
due  proportion  of  absorbents,  and,  finally,  the 

[56] 


MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS 

earth  around  the  edges  being  worked  in,  the  whole 
mass  is  then  ready  to  be  loaded  and  transported. 

By  this  method  the  material  is  made  convenient 
to  handle,  and  as  little  disagreeable  as  ordinary 
manure  from  the  barnyard.  In  England  and  on 
the  Continent,  by  use  of  the  long  straw,  judiciously 
disposed  during  the  loading,  the  mixed  material 
above  described  is  built  up  into  a  stack  reaching 
two  or  three  feet  high,  above  the  sides  of  the  wagon 
or  cart,  and  so  great  loads  of  it  are  carried  many 
miles  without  loss.  The  straw  is  spread  so  that 
half  of  its  length  projects  over  the  sides  or  ends 
of  the  load,  and  in  layers  —  the  inner  ends  of  the 
straw  being  covered  and  held  fast  by  the  alternate 
layers  of  compost  —  and  the  outer  ends  are  then 
bent  upward  and  backward,  and  similarly  confined. 
Racks  for  sides  and  ends  are  convenient  but 
when  the  load  is  carefully  put  together  may  be 
dispensed  with. 

Wood  ashes,  where  they  can  be  obtained,  form 
one  of  the  best  fertilizers,  and  when  unleached  are 
generally  richer  in  potash  (which  is  one  of  the  most 
important  elements)  than  most  commercial  fer- 
tilizers. From  the  fact  that  ashes  are  almost 
entirely  lacking  in  nitrogen,  it  is  not  advisable  to 

[57] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET   GARDENING 

rely  on  them  alone  and  continuously,  year  after 
year;  but  if  applied  about  once  in  three  years, 
with  stable  manure  put  on  in  the  meantime,  they 
will  be  found  of  great  value.  For  cabbage  and 
onions,  which  require  a  very  large  amount  of 
potash,  ashes  are  especially  suitable. 

For  manuring  the  hill,  which  is  in  many  cases 
highly  advantageous,  it  is  ordinarily  preferred  to 
use  guano,  superphosphates,  and  the  like,  because 
of  the  facility  with  which  they  can  be  put  in ;  care 
being  always  taken  to  stir  them  in  well,  so  that 
the  sprouting  seeds  shall  escape  absolute  contact 
with  the  unmixed  fertilizer  —  which  would  be 
destructive. 

Good,  ripe,  well-worked  compost  is  also 
employed;  often  made  from  materials  specially 
purchased  to  mix  up  (like  fish  compost,  made 
where  fish- waste  is  readily  procurable),  but  also 
produced,  under  judicious  management,  from 
everything  in  the  shape  of  decomposable  material 
that  can  be  gathered  up  about  the  place.  And 
if  due  attention  is  given  to  collecting  together  all 
waste  material  —  litter,  leaves,  weeds  and  the 
like  —  and  stacking  them  in  alternate  layers  with 
fresh  loam,  or  road-scrapings,  the  result  will  be 

[58] 


MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS 

a  handsome  lot  of  uniform,  fine  compost.  It 
should  always  be  built  up  in  layers,  each  layer 
spread  out  so  as  to  cover  the  preceding  layer 
uniformly;  which  will  secure  compost  of  even 
quality.  It  should  be  protected  from  washing 
or  leaching  by  a  rough  covering  of  boards,  so 
placed  as  to  shed  the  rains. 

Occasional  layers  of  fresh  dung,  doses  of  lime 
and  ashes,  and  drenching  the  mass  from  time  to 
time  with  liquid  manure,  will  produce  the  proper 
fermentation.  There  are  innumerable  ways  of 
increasing  the  bulk  and  enhancing  the  quality 
of  the  compost  heap,  which  can  best  be  mastered 
by  the  study  of  any  good  manual  on  the  subject; 
and  we  do  not  aim  here  at  superseding  any  of 
these  treatises.  Our  object  is  mainly  to  call 
attention  to  this  means  of  utilizing  all  manner 
of  decomposable  trash,  and  converting  it  into 
valuable  plant  food.  There  is  an  old  saying, 
that  "  anything  that  grows  in  one  summer  will 
decay  before  the  next";  and  this  hint  may  be 
profitable  as  a  guide  in  collecting  vegetable  matter 
for  the  compost  heap. 

The  presence  of  the  loam,  or  loamy  mixtures, 
in  the  heap  is  quite  important.  It  has  been  said 

[59] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

that  where  sods,  muck  and  weeds  form  a  part 
of  the  mass,  it  is  not  alone  the  vegetable  matter 
which  has  been  brought  in  that  constitutes  a 
material  addition;  perhaps  it  is  not  even  the 
principal  one.  There  is  always  considerable  earth 
adhering.  "The  fermentation,  induced  by  the 
dung  and  liquid  manure  and  the  action  of  the 
lime  or  ashes  added,  works  upon  the  earth  adhering 
to  the  roots  and  forming  a  considerable  part 
both  of  sods  and  muck ;  and  develops  an  admirable 
quality  of  plant  food."  Hence  this  element  of 
the  compost  heap,  which  is  generally  overlooked 
as  unimportant,  should  never  be  wanting  — 
instead  of  diluting,  it  in  reality  reinforces  the 
other  manurial  elements. 

Liquid  manure  is  seldom  at  hand  in  large 
quantities,  and  not  much  advance  has  been  made 
in  using  it  directly  upon  the  land  under  crop. 
When  this  is  done,  it  should  be  in  a  very  diluted 
state.  Even  if  so  much  diluted  that  it  seems  to 
run  perfectly  clear,  it  may  still  be  found  sufficiently 
strong;  if  too  strong  its  use  would  be  injurious 
rather  than  helpful,  and  might  often  destroy  a 
crop  entirely.  There  is  far  more  danger  of  getting 
it  too  strong  than  of  making  it  too  weak.  It  may 

[60] 


MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS 

be  doubted,  indeed,  whether  the  diluting  element* 
water,  is  not,  at  least,  an  equal  cause  of  the  fertility 
which  sometimes  attends  its  use,  when  directly 
applied.  The  result  either  of  watering  or  liquid 
manuring  will  be  less  favourable  in  a  cool  season 
than  a  hot  one;  owing  to  the  reduction  of  tem- 
perature occasioned  by  wet  applications  to  the  soil. 

A  way  of  procuring  liquid  manure  —  convenient 
when  a  small  quantity  only  is  required  —  is  to 
leach  solid  stable  manure  as  ashes  are  leached  for 
obtaining  lye.  For  special  results,  solutions  of 
specific  commercial  fertilizers  are  valuable,  and 
are  easily  made.  For  instance,  liquid  nitrate  of 
soda  is  obtained  by  dissolving  one  pound  of  the 
nitrate  in  twelve  gallons  of  water.  It  is  beneficial 
to  all  garden  crops,  though  particularly  recom- 
mended for  grass  plats  —  but  its  chief  value  to  the 
vegetable  grower  is  as  a  destroyer  of  slugs  and 
other  garden  pests. 

The  most  valuable  liquid  manure  is,  however, 
the  urine  of  stabled  animals,  which  when  not 
allowed  to  run  to  waste  is  ordinarily  taken  up  by 
absorbents  kept  under  the  animals,  in  the  stalls 
or  in  the  cellar  beneath  them.  Sometimes,  how- 
ever, it  is  conducted  by  natural  flow  in  gutters  and 

[61] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

pipes  to  a  tank  from  which  it  may  be  pumped.  It 
is  very  valuable,  more  so  than  the  solid  excrement 
from  the  same  animals;  and  more  effectual  means 
of  saving  and  applying  it  than  those  now  generally 
practised  will  doubtless  soon  come  into  use.  In 
applying  it  directly  to  the  soil  amongst  growing 
plants  it  requires,  as  already  said,  to  be  greatly 
diluted.  Small  amounts  pumped  at  intervals  over 
the  compost  heap  promote  fermentation. 

In  purchasing  manure,  preference  should  be 
given  to  that  of  grain-fed  animals.  The  value  of 
all  animal  excrement  depends  more  on  the  char- 
acter of  the  food  consumed  than  on  the  kind  of 
animal.  But  it  is  convenient  to  know  the  average 
composition  of  the  solid  droppings  of  different 
animals,  and  the  following  data  have  once  been 
published  in  the  Gardener's  Monthly.  The  excre- 
ment standing  highest  in  value  is  sheep  dung  (this 
not  being  obtainable  in  our  vicinity,  we  give  its 
analysis  merely  for  comparison).  It  contains 
in  100  parts,  of  water,  68.71 ;  azotized  matter,  23.16; 
saline,  8.13.  Horse  manure  consists  of  water, 
75.31;  geine,  or  organic  matter,  20.67;  salts,  4.02. 
(The  geine  is  composed  of  —  carbon,  9.56;  hydro- 
gen, 1.26;  oxygen,  9.31;  and  nitrogen,  0.54.)  Cow 

[62] 


MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS 

manure  contains,  geine,  15.45;  salts,  0.95;  water, 
83.60.  Contrary  to  the  general  idea,  that  of  the 
horse  outranks  that  of  the  cow. 

The  list  of  materials  available  to  the  gardener 
and  cultivator  for  enriching  the  soil  comprises 
the  following  principal  items:  the  animal  manures 
(like  those  whose  analysis  has  been  given),  fish, 
bones  of  animals,  lime,  gypsum,  wood  ashes,  com- 
mon salt,  soot,  peat-earth,  seaweeds,  malt  dust, 
rape-cake  and  linseed-cake,  green  succulent  plants, 
and  commercial  fertilizers. 

Much  has  recently  been  added  to  the  stock  of 
general  information  on  the  nature  and  action  of 
manures.  All  the  more  is  the  subject  one  which 
demands  constant  study  and  reflection  on  the  part 
of  the  practical  cultivator.  In  view  of  the  great 
variety  of  conditions  presenting  themselves,  it 
often  seems  next  to  impossible  for  him  to  select 
from  the  mass  of  available  matter  the  points  likely 
to  be  of  assistance  to  him.  Yet  by  diligent  read- 
ing, and  carefully  discriminating  -what  he  reads, 
he  will  soon  begin  to  feel  the  benefit  of  combining 
the  experience  of  others  with  that  which  he  gains 
for  himself,  and  will  find  that  the  former  is  by  far 
the  less  costly  of  the  two.  On  this  general  topic  of 

[63] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
manures  many  well-written  works  may  be  found 
in  most  libraries.  We  recommend  for  reading, 
once  and  again,  till  its  contents  become  thoroughly 
familiar,  Harris's  "Talks  on  Manures,"  published 
a  number  of  years  ago.  Its  style  is  varied  and 
interesting,  and  the  matter  is  highly  instructive. 
Every  farmer  should  use  this,  or  some  equivalent 
book,  as  a  constant  reference  and  guide  in  pro- 
viding and  applying  manures;  and  there  is  no 
other  book  that  we  know  of  which  presents  this 
subject  so  clearly  and  intelligibly,  and  at  the  same 
time  in  such  an  interesting  manner  —  almost  every 
page  is  as  readable  as  a  story. 

APPLICATION    OF    MANURES 

Further  general  suggestions  on  this  subject 
might  seem  to  some  almost  unnecessary,  but, 
nevertheless,  this  is  an  important  part  of  market- 
garden  work,  and  well  worthy  of  attentive  study. 
As  garden  crops,  to  be  of  marketable  quality, 
require  to  be  grown  quickly,  it  is  plainly  requisite 
that  the  land  be  brought  into  the  best  possible 
condition  to  begin  with,  and  then  that  the  arti- 
ficial fertilizers  or  further  manurings,  whatever 

[64] 


APPLICATION  OF  MANURES 

they  may  be,  should  be  applied  in  such  a  way 
that  the  growing  crops  can  readily  reach  and  take 
up  this  supplementary  nourishment. 

In  what  has  been  said  on  Preparation  of  the  Soil, 
we  have  included  many  detailed  directions  for 
applying  manures  to  the  soil,  and  amongst  them 
have  recommended  having  the  land  ploughed 
once  in  advance  of  the  first  application  of  the 
manure.  This  gives  a  chance  for  the  manure 
(especially  if  it  is  a  little  coarse)  to  be  worked  into 
the  soil  more  thoroughly  by  the  second  ploughing 
than  it  otherwise  would.  However,  except  in 
comparatively  few  instances,  the  presence  of  coarse 
manure  is  a  serious  impediment  and  disadvantage 
in  the  process  of  cultivation.  It  should  be  in  a 
fine  state,  reduced  to  this  condition  by  slowly  con- 
ducted previous  fermentation,  and  should  be  very 
thoroughly  intermixed  with  the  soil. 

Of  course,  as  already  said,  it  is  very  important 
that  market-garden  crops  be  grown  quickly,  and 
right  here  is  the  reason  why  quick-growing  crops 
require  more  manure  than  others  that  take  a  whole 
season  to  complete  their  growth;  it  is  because  the 
latter  have  more  time  in  which  to  feel  about  and 
collect  their  necessary  nourishment  from  the  soil 

[65] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
and  atmosphere;  but  the  former  must  have  their 
food  in  abundance,  and  it  must  be  placed  within 
easy  reach  of  the  feeding  roots,  or  there  will  be  a 
most  decided  shortage  in  the  result. 

There  are  great  differences  in  the  requirements 
of  the  various  crops,  and  no  set  rule  can  be  given 
that  will  be  adapted  for  regulating  the  quantity  of 
manure  to  be  applied  to  all  crops  and  on  all  soils. 
Some  specific  instructions  for  special  cases  appear 
in  the  following  pages. 

Where  but  one  crop  per  year  is  to  be  taken  from 
land  which  is  already  in  fairly  good  condition,  ten 
or  twelve  cords  per  acre  of  well -decomposed  man- 
ure would  be  considered,  ordinarily,  as  a  sufficient 
supply;  but  on  land  to  be  double-cropped,  twenty 
cords  would  be  none  too  much.  This  should  be 
ploughed  in  lightly,  so  as  to  be  left  near  the  surface. 

If  the  first  ploughing  should  be  done  in  the  fall, 
the  manure  can  be  applied  then,  and  remain  lying 
out  on  the  surface  until  spring,  as  it  does  not  lose 
by  so  doing.  During  a  dry  season,  unless  the 
land  can  be  properly  irrigated  or  watered,  a  crop 
will  manifestly  be  unable  to  draw  the  proper 
amount  of  nourishment  from  the  soil,  since  all 
plant  food  of  every  description  has  to  be  not 

[66] 


APPLICATION  OF  MANURES 

merely  in  a  soluble  form  but  actually  in  solution 
before  it  can  be  taken  up  and  assimilated  by  the 
plants.  For  this  reason  it  is  now  felt  necessary, 
in  view  of  the  continually  recurring  droughts,  to 
provide  effectual  means  of  irrigation. 

Sometimes,  however,  a  crop  comes  to  a  stand- 
still by  reason  of  having  exhausted  all  the  fertilizing 
matter  contained  in  the  soil  of  a  sort  available  to 
its  requirements;  and  in  such  instances  the  trained 
eye  of  the  practical  gardener  can  usually  detect 
what  is  lacking  for  the  crop;  and  he  may  supply 
the  need  by  an  application  of  some  specific  com- 
mercial fertilizer.  It  would  be  difficult  to  explain 
to  a  wholly  inexperienced  person  just  how  to  detect 
the  wants  of  the  crops,  but  a  little  acquaintance 
with  their  normal  habits  of  growth  will  speedily 
teach  one  what  one  needs  to  observe. 

It  is  imperative,  even  in  an  economical  view, 
where  a  crop  is  checked  in  growth  from  want  of 
fertilizing  matter,  that  some  quick-acting  fertilizer 
be  promptly  applied,  for  upon  the  question  of  a 
few  dollars'  expenditure  at  this  crisis  may  depend 
all  the  difference  between  a  crop  and  no  crop. 
Whenever  the  need  of  such  an  application  occurs, 
it  is  better  to  sow  the  fertilizer  broadcast  than  to 

[67] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

place  it  directly  on  the  hill  and  about  the  plant;  and 
the  labour  of  applying  it  is  less.  Liquid  manure 
may  be  applied  by  the  process  already  described 
for  irrigating,  in  a  furrow  opened  about  a  foot 
from  the  row,  more  or  less,  according  to  the 
growth  the  plants  have  made. 


[68] 


CHAPTER  III 

SELECTION  OF  SEEDS  —  THEIR  VITALITY  —  SEED 
GROWING  —  SOWING  THE  SEED  —  CULTIVATION 
OF  CROPS CONSTRUCTION  AND  CARE  OF  HOT- 
BEDS   GARDENING  IN  HOT-HOUSES GATH- 
ERING CROPS CAPITAL  AND  LABOUR  INVOLVED 

l  ERHAP8  we  might  truthfully  say  that  the  most 
important  of  all  points  in  gardening  is  the  right 
selection  of  seeds;  for  without  good  seed  the  care 
and  expense  devoted  to  selecting  and  fitting  the 
land,  or  procuring  and  using  implements,  fer- 
tilizers, etc.,  is  all  bestowed  in  vain. 

By  good  seed,  we  not  only  mean  such  as  will 
germinate  properly,  but  such  as  is  true  to  name, 
and  of  the  very  best  selected  strains.  And  it  is 
proper  in  this  connection  to  say  that  no  one  need 
expect  to  get  seed  such  as  we  have  spoken  of  at 
such  absurdly  low  prices  as  much  cheap  stuff 
is  sold  for.  Better  to  pay  twice  the  market  price 
for  an  article  that  is  first-class  in  every  respect  than 
have  poor  trash,  even  if  it  is  to  be  had  as  a  gift. 

[69] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

Always  look  for  quality  first ;  and  when  satisfied 
in  this  respect,  pay  the  price  if  it  is  in  any  wise 
reasonable;  for  you  must  remember  that  these 
extra  strains  have  cost  an  amount  of  labour  and 
expense  in  growing  them  largely  beyond  that 
required  by  common-grown  stock. 

Of  course,  as  we  have  already  said,  it  is  always 
important,  and  in  some  degree  essential,  that 
none  but  the  best  seed  be  used ;  but  with  some  crops 
this  is  most  especially  necessary,  and  a  neglect  will 
result  in  the  most  disastrous  kind  of  a  failure. 
Take,  for  instance,  either  cabbage,  cauliflower  or 
celery.  These  are  vegetables  with  regard  to  which 
the  greatest  care  has  to  be  exercised  to  procure 
the  proper  kind  of  seed  stock.  Also  with  onions, 
lettuce  and  cucumbers  this  is  no  less  important. 

It  may  be  well  to  add,  while  on  this  point,  that 
there  is  more  than  one  advantage  in  purchasing 
your  seed  supply  early  in  the  season,  and  before 
the  spring  rush  comes  on.  By  so  doing  you  are 
enabled  to  get  the  best  that  there  is  in  stock,  as  the 
supplies  have  not  then  been  greatly  drawn  upon; 
and  by  attending  to  the  matter  before  every  one 
is  driven  with  orders  you  have  a  better  chance  to 
make  your  selections,  and  of  avoiding  mistakes. 

[70] 


VITALITY  OF  SEEDS 

It  is  quite  important,  unless  you  can  rely  abso- 
lutely upon  the  dealer  from  whom  you  purchase, 
to  employ  some  means  of  testing  the  quality  of 
seeds.  Some  have  recommended  as  the  speediest 
way,  though  not  altogether  a  sure  one,  putting 
a  few  on  top  of  a  hot  stove;  such  as  are  good 
will  crack  like  corn  in  parching;  the  bad  will 
burn  without  noise  and  with  very  little  motion. 
A  more  reliable  way  is  to  place  a  little  cotton-wool 
or  moss  in  a  tumbler  containing  water,  and  let  it 
stand  in  a  warm  room  while  the  experiment  is  in 
progress.  Place  the  seeds  to  be  tested  on  the  wool  or 
moss  so  arranged,  and  they  will  germinate  sooner 
than  they  would  in  ordinary  planting.  The  propor- 
tion of  bad  seed  —  that  is,  of  seed  which  has  lost 
its  vitality  — will  be  recognized  in  this  way;  but  as 
regards  the  quality  of  the  strain  and  whether  they 
are  true  to  name,  there  can  be  no  proof  or  guarantee 
in  advance  of  the  crop  they  bring,  except  procuring 
them  from  a  dealer  who  is  recognized  as  reliable, 
and  who  knows  what  he  is  selling. 

VITALITY   OF   SEEDS 

As  regards  the  period  for  which  seeds  may  be 
kept  without  destroying  or  seriously  impairing 

[71] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

their  vitality:  this  varies  with  different  seeds. 
Opinion  varies  also  as  to  the  time  which  may  be 
assigned  as  the  limit  in  the  case  of  each  separate 
kind.  It  is  ordinarily  thought,  and  perhaps  it 
is  safest  to  hold  as  a  general  rule,  that  the  seeds 
which  mature  in  one  season  are  the  best  for  next 
year's  planting.  However,  seeds  of  good  original 
vitality  may  be  expected  to  germinate  freely  if 
properly  cared  for,  at  periods  after  maturity 
not  greater  than  shown  in  the  table  on  the  following 
page. 

We  have  to  remark  here  that  the  duration  of 
the  germinating  power  of  seeds  depends  very 
materially  upon  the  circumstances  under  which 
they  have  been  harvested  and  kept.  Nothing 
has  a  greater  tendency  to  destroy  it  than  the 
influence  of  dampness  and  heat;  owing  to  which 
causes  it  often  occurs  that  good  seed,  purchased 
from  dealers  in  whom  reliance  can  be  placed, 
and  kept  not  a  great  while  on  hand,  fails  to  come 
up.  Thus  far  no  better  method  is  known  for 
keeping  seeds  in  good  condition  till  wanted  than 
putting  them  in  linen  bags  and  storing  in  a  dry, 
moderately  cool,  and  well-ventilated  place. 

Any  seeds,  of  which  the  germinating  power 

[72] 


VITALITY  OF  SEEDS 

continues  active  for  five  years,  on  an  average, 
do  not  entirely  lose  it  after  the  lapse  of  ten  years, 
or  more.  In  this  class  are  included  most  of  the 
seeds  sown  in  the  market  garden  —  those  which 
possess  a  less  degree  of  vitality  are  corn,  dande- 
lion, leek,  onion,  okra,  peas,  parsnip,  parsley,  rad- 
ish, salsify  and  spinach. 


LENGTH    OF    TIME     FOR    WHICH     DIFFER- 
ENT     SEEDS      RETAIN      THEIR     VITALITY 


Artichoke    . 

5  years. 

Kohl-rabi  . 

7 

years. 

Asparagus  . 

4       " 

Leek   .      . 

2 

it 

Beans    .   • 

5       " 

Lettuce 

5 

" 

Beets      .      .      .- 

5       « 

Melon 

7 

« 

Broccoli     ;y.     ,.,( 

5       " 

Onion  . 

2 

«c 

Brussels  Sprouts 

7       " 

Okra 

3 

« 

Cabbage 

7       « 

Peas 

4 

•1 

Carrot    .  •    .      . 

5       " 

Parsnip     . 

1 

" 

Cauliflower 

7       " 

Pumpkin  . 

7 

« 

Celery 

8 

Parsley 

3 

" 

Corn      .      .      . 

2       " 

Radish     V 

3 

« 

Cucumber  .      .    1 

1  Q          4< 

Salsify 

2 

« 

Dandelion  . 

3       " 

Spinach    . 

3 

cc 

Egg-plant    //  . 

7 

Squash 

7 

" 

Endive 

9       " 

Tomato     . 

5 

« 

Kale       .      .      , 

5       " 

Turnip      . 

5 

" 

The  general  rule  above  suggested,  giving  prefer- 
ence  to   last  year's   seed,   has   some  exceptions. 

[73] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

Plants  such  as  melons,  cucumbers  and  squashes 
(though  they  grow  vines  most  vigorously  from 
fresh  seeds)  are  thought  to  set  and  mature  their 
fruit  better  when  grown  from  that  which  is 
older.  Beans  are  included  by  some  in  the  same 
category. 

SEED    GROWING 

Every  one  who  makes  market  gardening  a 
business  is  obliged  to  raise  at  least  a  portion  of 
the  seed  which  he  plants;  and  in  order  to  do  this 
successfully,  as  regards  its  vigour  and  productive- 
ness, and  so  as  to  obtain  the  choicest  of  each  kind, 
great  pains  must  be  taken  in  the  selection  and 
care  of  the  seed  stocks. 

In  selecting  the  stocks  from  which  the  seed  is 
to  be  saved,  the  very  best  of  the  season  should 
always  be  taken.  Particular  rows,  or  even  individ- 
ual plants  in  different  parts  of  the  field,  must  be 
marked  and  reserved  for  the  purpose ;  and  although 
this  is  very  expensive  and  tedious  it  is  the  only 
safe  and  satisfactory  way.  By  so  doing  the  stock 
is  constantly  improving  year  by  year;  while, 
if  the  product  of  the  whole  field  is  saved  for  seed, 

[74] 


SEED  GROWING 

' 

as  is  done  by  many  seed  growers,  there  must  be 
more  or  less  deterioration. 

Owing  to  the  differences  in  climate,  some  kinds 
of  seeds  can  be  grown  to  much  better  advantage 
in  localities  other  than  our  own;  and,  although 
most  of  the  seeds  which  are  planted  in  our  market 
gardens  can  be  grown  successfully  in  America, 
there  are  a  few  among  these  which  can  be  raised 
to  far  better  advantage  in  foreign  countries. 
No  doubt,  one  reason  for  this  is  that  these  countries 
enjoy  a  climate  more  equable  than  ours  —  a 
condition  which  is  more  favourable  for  all  crops, 
and  renders  the  results  of  cultivation  much  more 
reliable. 

The  cauliflower,  in  particular,  has  a  seed  which 
cannot  be  grown  with  any  certainty  in  this  country; 
while  foreign  growers  are  almost  as  certain  of 
a  crop  as  we  are  with  cabbage. 

Although,  in  the  case  of  many  of  the  seeds 
which  are  produced  by  market  gardeners,  through 
careful  selection,  in  the  manner  described,  one 
could  often  purchase  a  supply  from  dealers  for 
one-half  what  it  costs  to  produce  it  one's  self,  the 
quality  of  one's  own  selected  stock  may  be  more 
than  enough  better  to  make  up  the  difference  in 

[75] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

cost.  I  have  raised  vegetables  in  such  large 
quantities  that  I  have  been  induced  to  grow  my 
own  seed,  to  a  great  extent,  and,  having  often  had 
a  surplus,  have  supplied  my  neighbours;  and  my 
trade  in  seeds,  commencing  in  this  way,  con- 
stantly increased  from  the  beginning,  until  I  was 
finally  obliged  to  open  a  seed  store  in  the  city, 
for  the  convenience  of  my  many  customers. 

Of  course,  I  do  not  by  any  means  profess  to 
grow  all  the  seeds  I  catalogue ;  but  there  are  several 
kinds  which  I  can  and  do  grow  very  successfully, 
and  which  I  have,  by  years  of  careful  selection 
greatly  improved.  Of  these  seeds  I  grow  all  that 
I  sell;  and,  in  order  to  distinguish  them  from  the 
common  strains,  I  have  designated  them  as 
"Arlington-grown"  seeds.  I  do  not  profess  to 
sell  these  seeds  at  any  such  low  prices  as  seeds 
of  the  same  varieties  can  often  be  bought  for, 
elsewhere,  from  dealers  who  buy  up  their  stock  here 
and  there,  of  any  one  from  whom  they  can  purchase 
cheapest.  Any  one  who  will  give  the  matter 
a  moment's  thought  will  see  that  I  cannot  compete 
in  price  with  these  cheap  grades  of  seeds. 

It  is  a  false  view  of  economy  that  leads  any  one 
to  purchase  cheap  seed  —  for  a  few  dollars  saved 

[76] 


TESTING    SEEDS    FOR    VITALITY 


SEEDLINGS    OF    CUCUMBER  PRICKED  OUT  FROM  THE    SEED 

BED.    IN  A  WEEK'S  TIME  THESE  WILL  BE  READY  TO  POT 


DIGGING  OVER  HOT-BED  AFTER   HEAT  IS   PUT  IN,  PREPAR- 
ATORY TO  SETTING  OUT  CARROTS  AND  RADISHES 


PULLING    RADISHES    FOR    MARKET 


SOWING  THE  SEED 

in  the  beginning  may  make  a  shortage  of  one-half, 
or  more,  in  the  crop.  I  have  always  made  it  a 
practice  when  purchasing  seed  for  my  own  use 
(of  such  varieties  as  I  do  not  raise,  and  so  have 
been  obliged  to  buy),  to  secure  the  best,  regard- 
less of  cost,  and  have  always  found  this  to  pay. 
Quality,  not  price,  is  the  chief  point  to  look  to  in 
purchasing  seed. 

The  same  rule  applies  to  the  case  of  the  seed 
grower  producing  seeds  either  for  his  own  use  or 
for  sale  —  the  expense  of  the  process  must  be 
disregarded,  and  the  excellence  of  the  product 
made  the  prime  consideration.  All  seeds  should 
be  gathered  as  soon  as  they  mature  —  for  expos- 
ure to  the  weather  is  injurious  to  their  power  of 
vegetating  when  planted.  They  should  be  dried 
in  the  shade,  and  in  a  warm  place,  but  not  where 
they  will  be  affected  by  the  direct  heat  of  the  fire. 

SOWING    THE    SEED 

In  the  preparatory  stages  of  the  work  of  raising 
a  crop,  all  the  points  we  have  included  above  are 
of  vital  importance  and  need  close  attention. 
The  successful  germination  of  the  seed,  no  matter 

[77] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

how  carefully  the  sowing  may  be  done,  must 
depend  largely  upon  the  condition  of  the  ground. 
But,  on  the  other  hand,  it  is  no  less  true  that, 
unless  the  seed  is  carefully  and  judiciously  placed 
in  the  ground,  and  properly  covered,  the  crop 
cannot  get  a  good  start,  no  matter  how  well 
the  land  has  been  prepared  or  how  good  the 
seed  is. 

It  is  far  better,  when  possible,  to  put  seed  into 
freshly  prepared  soil,  as  it  is  sure  to  get  a  better 
start  than  on  land  which  has  been  turned  over 
long  enough  to  have  become  crusty  and  lumpy 
on  the  surface.  Again,  it  is  preferable,  when 
possible,  to  sow  seed  immediately  after  a  rain 
rather  than  just  before  it  comes;  since,  in  the  case 
of  the  finer  seeds,  more  especially,  the  crust  which 
begins  to  form  on  all  garden  soils  immediately 
after  a  rain  will  partly  shut  out  the  air  and  will 
tend  to  prevent  free  germination.  Where  one 
encounters  the  misfortune  of  a  heavy  fall  of  rain 
occurring  just  after  the  planting  of  a  field  or  bed,  it 
will  be  well  to  go  over  the  ground  with  rakes, 
and  break  the  crust;  and  such  treatment  may 
make  a  difference  of  fifty  per  cent,  in  the  stand 
obtained. 

[78] 


SOWING  THE  SEED 

With  seed  having  a  thick  husk,  like  squash, 
cucumber,  or  melon,  it  is  obviously  of  peculiar 
importance  that  the  soil  be  in  just  the  right  con- 
dition —  in  order  to  be  sure  that  sufficient  mois- 
ture and  air  may  reach  the  seed  —  much  more 
than  with  thin-husked  kinds  that  germinate 
quickly,  like  cabbage,  turnip  and  radish; 
but,  still,  even  these  finer  seeds  need  the  most 
vigilant  attention  and  the  utmost  care  that  can 
be  given  in  sowing  them,  to  secure  the  best 
results. 

In  sowing  the  seed  of  beets,  squashes,  and 
parsnips,  and  also  peas,  beans  and  all  similar 
seeds,  it  is  necessary  also  to  plant  deeper 
than  the  finer  seeds,  from  the  fact  that  the  husk 
is  thicker,  and  it  requires  more  moisture  to  cause 
germination. 

Most  of  the  finer  seeds  are  sown  by  machine,  at 
different  distances  apart,  and  likewise  at  different 
depths,  varying,  according  to  the  kind,  from  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  to  one  inch; -being  governed 
partly  by  the  size  of  the  seed,  and  also  by  the  sea- 
son of  the  year.  Seed  put  in  during  the  hot,  dry 
weather  of  summer  must,  for  obvious  reasons,  be 
covered  a  little  deeper  than  early  in  spring,  when 

[79] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

the    ground    is    moist    enough    for    their    speedy 
germination,  even  if  very  near  the  surface. 

CULTIVATION  OF  CROPS 

After  the  seed  that  we  have  sown  has  come  up, 
the  frequent  stirring  of  the  soil  will  prove  bene- 
ficial. It  is  not  generally  necessary  to  caution  any 
one  against  stirring  the  soil  too  frequently ;  still  this 
may,  not  impossibly,  be  sometimes  overdone,  at 
least  as  regarded  from  a  financial  point  of  view. 

Following  a  rain,  and  after  the  land  is  dried  suffi- 
ciently to  be  in  good  working  condition,  is  the  best 
possible  time  for  giving  the  soil  a  thorough  stirring; 
for  then  it  will  be  left  in  a  fresh,  lively  condition, 
that  will  give  the  growing  crop  a  surprising  start. 

It  may  be  well  to  note  here  that  it  is  not  profitable 
to  stir  the  soil  when  it  is  too  wet,  or  to  hoe  crops 
when  they  are  dripping  with  water,  as  some  people 
do;  even  cabbages,  celery,  and  turnips  are  not 
benefited,  if  indeed  they  escape  serious  injury, 
under  such  treatment. 

In  cultivating  crops  of  any  description,  it  is 
necessary  to  bear  in  mind  that,  when  they  are  young 
and  growing  rapidly,  it  will  be  proper  to  cultivate 

[80] 


CULTIVATION  OF  CROPS 

deeper  and  nearer  to  the  plants  than  at  a  later  stage, 
when  growth  is  not  so  rapid.  At  the  later  stage,  such 
active  cultivation  would  have  a  tendency  to  ripen 
off  the  crop  rather  than  promote  its  growth. 

During  a  dry  season,  or  a  period  of  extended 
drought,  the  more  frequently  the  soil  is  stirred 
around  a  growing  crop  the  better;  as  the  loosening 
up  of  the  surface  soil  will  draw  the  moisture  from 
below  upward,  within  reach  of  the  feeding  roots 
of  the  plants,  and  thus  enable  them  to  absorb  it. 

In  the  case  of  any  crop  planted  in  rows,  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  stir  the  soil  and  cut  down  the  weeds, 
immediately  after  the  plants  come  up,  in  the 
following  manner:  Take  an  ordinary  A-harrow 
and  remove  the  front  tooth;  then  drive  along  each 
row  of  plants,  keeping  it  exactly  between  the 
horses  and  central  to  the  harrow.  This  harrow- 
ing will  not  disturb  them  in  the  least,  and  just  at 
this  stage  will  promote  their  growth  surprisingly. 
The  weeds  of  course  will  not  be  exterminated 
entirely,  but  their  first  early  growth  will  be  effect- 
ually destroyed,  and  they  will  more  easily  be  kept 
under  during  the  rest  of  the  season. 

Parasitic  insects  and  vegetable  parasites  (to 
which  latter  class  belong  smut,  blight,  mildew, 

[81] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

etc.)  cause  heavy  losses  and  disappointments  to 
all  cultivators  of  the  land  both  on  farms  and  in 
gardens.  The  more  thrifty  the  habit  and  con- 
dition of  the  plants,  the  less  will  they  be  liable  to 
such  ravages.  Thorough  and  constant  cultivation 
disturbs  and  destroys  the  larvae,  reinforces  the 
plant,  and  enables  it  to  withstand  parasitic  attacks, 
both  animal  and  vegetable,  to  good  advantage. 
Further  suggestions  on  this  topic  scarcely  belong 
to  this  chapter,  but  will  be  given  later  in  the  work. 

CONSTRUCTION    OF    HOT-BEDS 

For  a  location,  a  spot  facing  the  south,  with  a 
slope  in  that  direction,  is  the  most  desirable.  After 
the  location  has  been  selected,  a  fence  should  be 
erected  six  feet  high,  and  of  the  length  which  the 
bed  is  to  be,  to  serve  as  a  protection  from  the  wind, 
and  as  a  support  for  mats  and  shutters.  For 
convenience,  the  fence  or  wind-break  should 
slant  back  a  little  from  the  bottom  —  about  one 
foot:  it  will  then  form  a  better  support  for  mats 
and  shutters  when  leaned  against  it,  and  will  be 
much  more  convenient  in  working  around  the  beds. 

The  first  plank  should  be  set  about  three  and  a 

[82] 


SUPPLYING  THE  HEAT 

half  feet  from  the  base  of  the  fence,  and  should 
be  two  inches  thick  by  twelve  inches.  The  front 
plank  should  be  two  inches  narrower.  Place 
the  back  plank  two  and  a  half  inches  above  the 
ground,  and  hold  in  place  by  driving  stakes  at 
the  end  and  middle.  Continue  the  planking  in 
this  manner  until  the  desired  length  is  reached. 
The  stakes  should,  of  course,  be  nailed  to  the 
planks.  Place  the  front  plank  six  feet  from  the 
first,  and  sink  into  the  ground  so  that  the  upper 
edge  will  be  five  inches  lower  than  the  top  of  the 
first,  which  makes  a  slant  of  five  inches  to  carry 
off  the  water.  Continue  this  the  same  length  as 
the  first,  and  you  will  then  have  a  bed  six  feet  wide 
and  of  the  desired  length.  Shovel  out  the  loam 
sufficient  to  bank  the  planks  on  the  outside  about 
half  the  height,  putting  in  spreaders  to  keep  from 
crowding  in.  Let  the  ground  freeze  about  three 
inches  deep,  then  cover  the  banking  with  leaves 
or  litter  to  keep  out  the  frost. 

SUPPLYING     THE     HEAT 

If  the  bed  is  for  lettuce,  throw  out  the  loam 
on  the  back  of  the  bed  to  the  depth  of  twenty- 

[83] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

four  inches  from  the  upper  edge  of  the  plank,  and 
twenty-two  inches  in  front,  and  of  the  length 
required,  so  as  to  make  room  for  the  manure. 
Prepare  the  required  heat  by  selecting  moderately 
coarse  horse  manure  four  or  five  days  before  using, 
turning  it  once  or  twice.  A  horse-cart-load  con- 
taining about  thirty-six  feet  is  sufficient  for  a  bed 
six  feet  square,  or  for  two  sashes,  the  depth  of  the 
manure  being  one  foot.  This  should  be  trodden 
down,  and  made  smooth  on  top;  then  put  in  the 
loam  from  under  the  next  two  sashes,  cover  to 
the  depth  of  eight  inches,  and  continue  in  this 
manner  as  far  as  required;  then  bring  the  loam 
which  was  taken  from  the  first  two  sashes,  and 
put  it  under  the  last,  which  completes  the  bed. 

For  heating  material,  various  articles  are  some- 
times used,  such  as  hop  waste  from  the  breweries, 
cotton  waste,  etc.;  but  where  fresh  horse  manure 
can  be  obtained  at  anything  like  reasonable  rates, 
it  is  far  better,  and,  all  things  considered,  is 
actually  more  economical;  as  the  manure  can, 
of  course,  be  used  on  the  land  after  it  has  served 
its  purpose  in  the  beds;  and  it  is  then,  as  ordinarily 
considered,  worth  half  the  original  cost.  Then, 
too,  where  manure  is  used  the  ammonia  which 

[84] 


SUPPLYING  THE  HEAT 

escapes  during  the  heating  process  is  of  great 
benefit  to  the  growing  crops,  while  from  other 
material  there  is  no  such  benefit  —  substantially 
nothing  but  the  heat  is  derived.  Steam  has  been 
applied  to  hot-beds,  but  with  no  good  results  as 
yet. 

Radishes  require  less  heat  than  lettuce,  just 
as  a  crop  of  young  cauliflower  or  cabbage  requires 
less  heat  than  tomatoes,  egg-plants,  or  others  of 
a  tropical  nature.  For  radishes,  a  cart-load  of 
manure,  containing  thirty-six  feet,  would  be  suffi- 
cient for  nine  feet  of  bed,  or  three  sashes,  and 
should  be  covered  with  one  foot  of  loam.  For 
forcing  cucumbers  more  heat  is  required  than  for 
lettuce  according  to  the  season.  In  any  case, 
the  bed  should  stand  a  day  after  it  is  prepared, 
to  allow  the  soil  to  heat  through;  it  is  then  ready 
for  seeds  or  plants. 

The  quantity  of  heating  material  to  be  used 
will  not  however,  depend  entirely  upon  the  crop 
to  be  grown;  we  must  also  take  into  account  the 
season  of  the  year  when  it  is  to  be  started.  With 
lettuce,  for  instance :  if  the  crop  were  to  be  planted 
in  December,  a  foot  of  fresh  manure  would  be 
necessary;  while  in  February  or  March  one-half 

[85] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

that  quantity  would  be  sufficient.  But  for  such 
tropical-natured  plants  as  tomatoes,  cucumbers, 
or  egg-plants,  a  foot  of  heating  material  would  be 
none  too  much  at  any  season. 

A  crop  of  radishes  would  not  perhaps  require 
quite  as  much  heat  as  lettuce  during  the  winter 
months;  still  it  would  need  about  the  quantity 
stated  to  keep  the  bed  properly  warm.  If  started 
in  March,  no  strong  bottom  heat  would  be  required, 
and  they  will  succeed  well  on  second  heat,  such  as 
is  in  a  bed  from  which  a  crop  of  lettuce  or  other 
vegetables  has  just  been  removed.  In  this  case 
the  crop  will  often  do  better  than  when  sown  in 
a  freshly  made  bed,  as  in  the  latter  the  ammonia, 
which  new  heating  material  always  throws  out, 
would  have  a  tendency  to  drive  the  crop  too  much  to 
tops;  which  is  not  what  is  wanted  with  root  crops. 

The  continuous  care  of  hot-beds  after  the  crop 
has  been  started  forms  one  of  the  most  important 
branches  of  work  in  the  market  garden.  The 
beds  require  to  be  covered  and  uncovered  every 
day,  and  constant  attendance  and  vigilance  are 
necessary  to  maintain  the  proper  temperature. 
The  amount  of  heat  to  be  aimed  at,  as  we  have 
already  said,  depends  upon  the  crop. 

[86] 


SUPPLYING  THE  HEAT 

Lettuce  beds,  during  the  winter  months,  should 
be  kept  at  a  temperature  ranging  from  50  degrees 
to  70  degrees.  For  radishes  it  may  range  from 
40  degrees  to  60  degrees;  while  for  cucumbers  and 
tomatoes  it  must  range  decidedly  higher,  say  from 
70  degrees  to  90  degrees,  or  even  100  degrees. 

In  the  spring  of  the  year,  it  is  quite  a  serious 
task  for  a  man  to  take  charge  of,  say,  1,000  sashes, 
with  half  a  dozen  different  crops  under  them.  He 
must,  of  course,  have  a  thorough  understanding  of 
their  requirements  in  respect  to  heat,  moisture 
and  a  variety  of  other  conditions.  He  must  be 
a  person  of  considerable  experience  or  he  cannot 
be  qualified  to  undertake  the  entire  management 
of  crops  so  cultivated.  It  will  be  found  that  much 
depends  on  their  receiving  the  right  care  always 
just  at  the  right  time. 

If  the  first  crop  is  started  in  November  or  Decem- 
ber, and  the  beds  are  properly  handled,  three  and 
sometimes  even  four  crops  may  be  taken  from  the 
glass  each  season.  In  regard  to  the  amount  of 
produce  that  can  be  taken  off,  per  sash,  each 
season,  of  course  much  depends  on  skilful  manage- 
ment; but  if  the  beds  are  properly  attended  to 
(where  three  crops  are  grown)  the  results  might, 

[87] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

ordinarily,  be  expected  to  be  about  as  follows: 
say  for  the  first  crop,  $2.50;  for  the  second,  $2.00; 
and  the  third,  $1.50;  making  a  total  of  $6.00  per 
sash.  These  figures  are,  of  course,  often  exceeded, 
and  even  doubled ;  but  we  are  now  giving  estimates 
of  a  result  as  near  an  average  as  possible. 

The  first  crop  embraced  in  the  foregoing  estimate 
would  be  lettuce,  four  dozen  to  each  sash,  at  62|c. 
per  dozen.  The  next,  either  lettuce  or  radishes; 
the  third,  cucumbers,  which  would  be  put  under 
the  glass  about  the  first  of  April  and  begin  to 
bear  June  1st.  The  latter  crop  varies  in  price 
according  to  the  season,  some  years  averaging 
as  high  as  three  dollars  per  sash;  but  for  a  large 
quantity,  a  cash  return  amounting  to  a  dollar 
and  a  half  per  sash  would  be  considered  by  most 
growers  as  reasonably  good. 

GARDENING    IN   HOT-HOUSES 

Sixty  years  ago  very  little  growing  was  done 
under  glass;  and  if  any  one  had  as  many  as  one 
hundred  sash  he  was  considered  quite  an  extensive 
market  gardener.  But  when  early  vegetables 
began  to  be  grown  in  the  South  and  sent  into  our 

[88] 


GARDENING  IN  HOT-HOUSES 

market,  some  forty  years  ago,  our  gardeners  began 
to  increase  their  use  of  sash;  and  some  thirty 
years  ago  hot-houses  were  put  into  service.  These 
have  gradually  become  more  and  more  relied 
upon  in  the  growing  of  plants  and  vegetables, 
until  now  a  market  gardener  who  has  no  hot-house 
is  considered  far  behind  the  times.  There  are  even 
now  many  thousands  of  sashes  used  every  spring  for 
covering  hot-beds ;  but  the  houses  are  much  easier  of 
management,  and  with  the  use  of  either  steam 
heat  or  hot-water  pipes  nearly  all  the  kinds  of 
vegetables  that  can  be  forced  are  grown  in  houses. 

There  are  many  advantages  secured  by  this 
method  of  culture.  We  can  employ  our  men  the 
whole  season  and  are  thereby  enabled  to  procure 
better  help;  and  we  have  something  to  carry  to 
market  the  whole  season  through.  Besides,  the 
houses  are  a  great  help  in  running  the  sash,  as 
the  plants  can  all  be  started  in  the  houses  and 
transplanted,  no  matter  what  the  weather  may 
happen  to  be. 

One  must  have  considerable  intelligence  and 
skill  to  run  a  number  of  houses  together  with 
several  thousand  sash;  and  a  market  gardener 
of  to-day  must  understand  many  different  matters. 

[89] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

He  must  be  an  engineer,  a  machinist,  a  carpenter, 
a  chemist,  a  botanist  and  a  horticulturist.  It  will 
cost  him  time  and  study  to  make  himself  familiar 
with  all  he  has  to  look  after.  It  will  take  him  all 
of  five  years'  time,  and  he  must  show  himself  an 
able  scholar,  even  then. 

In  hot-houses,  the  temperature  required  being 
attained  by  the  use  of  pipes  conveying  steam  or 
hot  water,  relatively  a  small  amount  of  manure 
will  be  requisite  as  compared  with  that  required 
to  create  and  maintain  heat  in  beds,  by  the  process 
of  fermentation. 

It  requires  a  fifty-horse-power  boiler  to  heat  one 
hundred  thousand  cubic  feet  of  space  to  a  tem- 
perature of  60  degrees  when  the  outside  air  is  at 
zero  Fahrenheit.  It  takes  one  ton  of  coal  for 
every  five  hundred  cubic  feet  of  space  to  heat  at 
same  temperature  and  carry  through  the  season 
from  November  1st  to  the  1st  of  May,  and  there 
must  be  provided  one  foot  in  length  of  one-and-a- 
quarter-inch  steam  pipe  for  every  twenty  cubic 
feet  of  space  to  heat  the  pipes  to  be  equally  dis- 
tributed. With  the  use  of  hot  water  instead  of 
steam,  it  takes  a  four-inch  pipe  to  do  the  same 
amount  of  heating  that  is  done  by  the  one-and-a- 

[90] 


GATHERING  THE  CROPS 

quarter-inch  steam  pipe;  and  if  the  weather  comes 
off  warm  in  the  morning  the  pipes  of  hot  water 
will  remain  hot;  while  steam  heat  can  be  imme- 
diately shut  off  and  can  be  let  on  again  at  any 
moment.  With  water  it  takes  from  one  to  two 
hours  to  get  the  pipes  warm  again  after  being 
cooled  off.* 

GATHERING   THE    CROPS 

In  market  gardening  the  term  " harvest"  cannot 
be  applied  as  it  was  in  olden  times  to  the  gathering 
of  the  grain  and  other  crops  in  the  fall  of  the  year. 
Under  modern  usages  there  is  no  real  season  of 
harvesting,  but,  on  the  contrary,  the  "seed-time 
and  harvest"  seasons,  both  of  them,  extend  the 
whole  year  round. 

Much  experience  is  required  to  enable  one  to 
know  just  when  to  harvest  market-garden  crops, 
and  this  does  not  always  or  solely  depend  on  their 
stage  of  maturity.  The  market  .gardener  of  to-day 
would  say  that  the  time  to  harvest  a  crop  is  when 
it  will  bring  the  most  money.  Although,  of  course, 
there  are  some  vegetables  that  cannot  be  gathered 

*Consult  Chapter  Seven. 

[91] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

until  they  are  ripe,  as  otherwise  they  are  practically 
worthless  —  such  as  melons,  celery  and  cauli- 
flower, which  it  would  be  folly  to  touch  until  they 
had  reached  maturity  —  yet  also  there  are  some, 
like  beets,  lettuce,  spinach,  etc.,  which,  after 
reaching  a  certain  early  stage  of  growth,  can  be 
marketed  readily,  and  to  profit. 

In  crops  that  are  to  be  marketed  when  young 
and  tender,  it  is  plainly  of  vital  importance  to  have 
experienced  hands  for  the  work,  as  such  articles  are 
very  easily  injured  and  rendered  unsaleable  by  care- 
less handling  and  packing  for  transportation. 

The  same  considerations,  though  perhaps  less 
obviously,  are  equally  important  in  the  case  of 
vegetables  that  are  to  be  stored  for  the  winter. 
These  also  should  be  harvested  and  handled  with 
care,  and  placed  in  storage  only  when  dry  or  in 
just  the  right  condition,  for  their  keeping  qualities 
must  largely  depend  on  their  treatment  at  this  time. 

AMOUNTS     OF     CAPITAL     AND     LABOUR 
REQUIRED 

Among  gardeners,  opinions  vary  as  to  the  area 
that  an  individual  may  wisely  include  in  his  plans. 

[92]  " 


CAPITAL  AND   LABOUR  REQUIRED 

Many  have  an  idea  that  five  acres  of  land  will  be 
enough;  others  put  it  at  ten;  while  it  is  known 
that  some  cultivate  a  hundred  acres  or  more  at  a 
profit.  The  amount  of  capital  required  varies, 
to  some  extent,  with  the  amount  of  land  cultivated, 
but  not  in  a  uniform  proportion;  while  a  larger 
variation  still  will  result  from  the  greater  or  less 
provision  we  may  choose  to  make  in  the  matter 
of  hot-houses.  Not  including  these  in  the  scheme 
of  cultivation,  and  on  the  presumption  that  we 
are  to  do  such  forcing  only  as  can  be  done  in  hot- 
beds, we  may  fix  approximate  amounts  as  follows : 

While  it  might  require  about  $3,000  with  the 
labour  of  three  men  and  two  horses,  to  properly 
handle  two  acres,  we  estimate  that  there  would  be 
needed  about  $5,000,  six  men,  and  three  horses  for 
ten  acres;  and  that  $20,000,  forty  men,  and  twenty 
horses  would  be  sufficient  for  one  hundred  acres. 

One  of  the  largest  and  most  indispensable 
items  of  original  outlay  is  in  providing  the  sashes; 
these  cost,  with  the  requisite  mats  and  shutters 
to  go  with  them,  about  $4.00  each,  of  which  about 
$2.50  is  paid  for  the  sash,  and  the  balance  for 
mats  and  shutters  to  correspond.  But  in  a 
scheme  combining,  not  only  hot-bed  and  out-door 

[93] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

cultivation,  but  forcing-houses  as  well,  the  possible 
outlay  is,  of  course,  almost  unlimited. 

A  very  important  item  of  annual  outlay  is  the 
supply  of  stable  manure.  This  will  cost,  at 
present  prices,  delivered  on  the  place,  from  $4  to 
$7  per  cord,  according  to  distance  from  the  city 
and  the  facilities  for  obtaining  and  transporting  it. 

The  land  cultivated  may  be  the  gardener's  own 
or  may  be  worked  under  a  lease.  In  the  latter 
case,  the  annual  rent  per  acre  is,  at  an  average,  say 
$25  for  highly  cultivated  land,  while  other  land  in 
the  remoter  suburbs,  and  not  in  as  good  condition, 
might  be  had  for  $10  per  year  —  exclusive  of 
buildings. 

There  may  doubtless  be  found  some  tracts  of 
land  under  cultivation  where  ordinary  interest, 
reckoned  on  the  purchase  money  invested,  would 
amount  to  $200  or  more,  annually,  per  acre;  but 
these  are,  of  course,  exceptional  cases. 

With  regard  to  the  expense  of  labour,  it  may  be 
stated  that  average  men  receive  about  $45  per 
month,  or  about  $1.75  per  day,  during  the  summer 
season,  and  about  $43  per  month,  or  $1.65  per 
day,  during  the  four  months  of  winter.  Of 
course,  skilled  labourers  might  expect  to  receive 

[94] 


CAPITAL  AND   LABOUR  REQUIRED 

more,  but  to  obtain  it  they  must  be  men  of  some 
experience  and  natural  adaptation  to  the  work. 
The  business  is  one  in  which  men  of  tact  and 
experience  are  in  demand,  no  less  than  in  a  manu- 
facturing or  mercantile  establishment. 

The  expense  of  keeping  the  work-horses,  includ- 
ing all  items,  would  amount  to  about  $150  on 
each  animal  per  year.  The  tools  are  a  less  import- 
ant item  of  expense,  and  yet  the  new  and  improved 
implements  of  the  present  date  are  quite  costly, 
and  the  cultivation  of  even  a  limited  amount  of 
land  requires  a  large  number  of  them. 

By  looking  over  the  foregoing  it  will  be  seen 
that,  if  we  exclude  the  more  elaborate  culture  in 
hot-houses,  the  total  annual  expense  of  running 
two  acres  of  land  would  be  about  $2,500.  That 
of  five  acres  would  foot  up  about  $5,000;  of  ten 
acres,  about  $8,000;  while  a  hundred  acres  could 
be  run  for  $25,000.  Many  people  have  a  mis- 
taken idea  that  they  can  run  a  garden  of  ten,  fifteen, 
or  twenty  acres  on  a  capital  smaller  than  is  really 
requisite  to  properly  run  three  acres.  If  one's 
capital  is  limited,  it  is  far  better  to  proportionally 
reduce  the  amount  of  land  and  improve  the 
culture  by  use  of  the  best  methods  and  appliances. 

[95] 


CHAPTER    IV 

VEGETABLES   RAISED    FOR    MARKET CHARACTER- 
ISTICS —  CULTURAL  DIRECTIONS 

THE  ARTICHOKE  (Cynara  Scolymus)  is  used  ex- 
tensively in  Europe,  either  raw  as  a  salad  or  boiled 
and  served  after  the  manner  of  cabbage.  It  may 
also  be  blanched  somewhat  as  we  treat  endive  — 
that  is,  the  side  stalks  —  and  it  is  then  used  as  a 
salad. 

It  may  be  propagated  either  from  the  seed  or 
by  root  cuttings.  The  latter  is  the  best  and  most 
convenient  plan ;  the  offset  suckers  should  be  taken 
in  the  spring.  When  raised  from  seed,  let  them 
be  sown  early  in  the  spring,  say  at  the  time  of  the 
flowering  of  the  peach,  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  and 
four  inches  apart  in  the  drills.  The  next  spring 
transplant  to  permanent  beds,  in  hills  three  feet 
apart  each  way,  with  three  plants  to  a  hill.  It 
requires  a  deep,  rich  loam,  abounding  in  moisture. 

As  the  plant  is  perennial,  one  planting  will 
answer  for  several  years.  No  winter  protection 

[96] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

will  be  required  except  in  the  most  northern 
States,  and  there  a  coat  of  straw  or  leaves  will 
suffice  to  insure  them  against  winter  killing. 
The  Green  Globe  and  Common  Green,  which 
are  much  alike,  are  the  varieties  we  have  had  in 
mind  in  writing  the  above. 

THE  JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE  (Helianthus  tube- 
rosus),  differs  from  the  foregoing  in  the  fact  that 
it  is  cultivated  for  its  tubers,  which  are  pickled  like 
cucumbers  or  eaten  raw  sliced  as  a  salad,  or  boiled 
like  potatoes.  They  are  planted  like  potatoes,  in 
hills  or  rows,  and  will  produce  enormous  crops. 
The  tubers  make  excellent  feed  for  all  kinds  of  live 
stock,  being  the  richest  in  fat-producing  elements 
of  any  of  our  cultivated  roots.  Care  must  be 
taken  at  the  time  of  harvesting  to  remove  all  the 
small  roots,  for  if  left  in  the  ground  they  will 
come  up  the  next  spring,  and  may  become  a 
troublesome  weed. 

ASPARAGUS  (A.  officinalis)  is  a  peculiar  crop 
and  generally  speaking  is  a  reliable  one.  The 
fact  that  it  takes  two  years  from  the  setting  if 
two-year-old  plants  are  set,  or  four  years  if  the 
seed  is  sown,  prevents  many  from  growing  it. 
It  is  not  generally  grown  in  the  immediate  vicinity 

[97] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

of  Boston  or  other  large  cities,  as  the  land  is  usually 
too  valuable.  The  average  proceeds  per  acre 
are  moderate;  from  $200  to  $300. 

As  compared  with  other  crops,  it  is  a  good  one 
to  ship,  and  will  stand  up  well  for  a  good  length 
of  time. 

Asparagus  is  a  hardy,  perennial,  maritime 
plant.  It  may  be  grown  from  seed,  or  propagated 
by  roots.  One  ounce  of  seed  will  sow  about 
fifty  feet  of  drill.  It  will  thrive  on  almost  any 
sandy  soil,  even  if  quite  light,  and  the  lighter  the 
soil,  others  things  being  equal,  the  earlier  the 
crop  may  be  got  off.  A  planting  once  properly 
made  will  last  for  years.  A  fair  crop  may  be 
expected  the  third  year  from  the  seed,  or  in  one  or 
two  years  from  the  roots,  according  to  their  age 
when  planted,  and,  after  that,  full  crops  every 
year. 

The  soil  for  this  crop  cannot  be  made  too  rich, 
and  should  be  thoroughly  trenched  two  feet  or 
more  in  depth.  The  plants  should  be  set  six  to 
eight  inches  deep,  in  rows  three  to  four  feet  apart, 
and  one  foot  apart  in  the  rows.  The  roots  should 
be  set  in  the  spring  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  in 
good  working  order  (they  can  be  set  in  the  fall, 

[98] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

but  the  spring  is  the  preferable  time),  say  about 
the  end  of  April.  The  crowns  of  the  roots  should 
be  from  four  to  six  inches  from  the  surface  of  the 
bed.  A  heavy  application  of  manure  must  be 
made  to  an  asparagus  bed  each  fall  —  say  eight 
or  ten  cords  per  acre.  This  should  be  lightly 
worked  into  the  soil  in  the  spring;  a  very  light 
surface  ploughing  will  accomplish  this  well,  if 
carefully  done.  Salt  is  an  excellent  thing  to  apply 
for  a  dressing,  for,  although  it  does  not  act  as  a 
manure,  as  some  people  think,  it  is  a  great  help 
in  keeping  down  the  weeds. 

In  cutting  for  the  market,  the  cut  is  made  about 
two  inches  under  the  ground,  and  pains  are  taken 
to  have  the  stalks  about  eight  inches  long.  In 
preparing  for  market  a  buncher  is  used,  so  that 
all  bunches  are  of  exactly  equal  length  and  size. 
From  twelve  to  twenty  stalks  are  put  in  each 
bunch,  according  to  the  size  of  the  stalks.  They 
bring,  on  an  average,  about  $1.50  per  dozen 
bunches,  still  the  price  varies  greatly  with  different 
seasons  and  depends  largely  on  the  supply  of  peas 
and  greens  that  may  be  in  the  market.  The 
season  for  cutting  usually  continues  about  five 
weeks,  and  the  plants  are  then  left  to  go  to  seed. 

[99] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

In  the  fall,  if  stable  manure  is  to  be  applied,  these 
seed  stalks  may  be  mown  down  and  the  ground 
cleared  off  by  burning  over;  but  in  case  commercial 
fertilizers  are  to  be  employed,  it  will  be  of  advan- 
tage to  let  the  stalks  stand,  for  protection,  mowing 
them  down  in  the  spring. 

The  varieties  are  numerous,  and  differ  con- 
siderably. Moore's  Giant  and  Giant  Argenteuil 
are  the  two  varieties  now  most  in  use. 

As  already  said,  the  profit  to  be  made  from 
asparagus  will  not  warrant  its  open-air  culture 
upon  the  high-priced  lands  that  lie  near  the  markets 
where  it  must  be  sold;  but,  fortunately,  it  keeps 
well,  and  will  bear  transporting  over  long  distances. 

It  has  been  somewhat  out  of  favour  with  market 
gardeners,  but  it  is  now  beginning  to  be  forced 
in  hot-houses,  thus  commanding  a  fancy  price. 
Where  it  is  grown  in  this  way,  the  roots  are  dug 
in  the  fall  and  put  into  a  cool  cellar  till  required 
to  be  placed  in  the  forcing-house.  The  asparagus 
will  be  fit  for  cutting  in  three  or  four  weeks.  The 
roots  thus  taken  up  are  of  no  use  after  being  forced 
in  this  manner. 

BEANS  (Phaseolus  vulgaris).  Dwarf  or  Bush 
kinds.  This  familiar  crop  flourishes  best  in  a 

[100] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

rather  light,  gravelly  soil;  and  it  should  never 
be  planted  in  very  heavy  land.  Beans  are 
extremely  sensitive  to  frost  and  cold.  The  bush 
beans  are  rather  more  hardy  than  the  pole  vari- 
eties, but  nevertheless  should  not  be  planted 
until  settled  weather;  say,  in  this  section,  about 
the  first  week  in  May.  Nothing  is  gained  by 
putting  them  in  when  the  weather  is  cold,  or  the 
land  damp  and  soggy,  for  they  are  a  crop  that 
never  recovers  from  a  set-back  received  early  in 
the  season.  Whenever  the  land  has  become 
light  and  warm,  select  a  dry  and  sheltered  location; 
and  on  the  ground  lightly  manured,  and  in  good 
condition  of  tilth,  plant  in  drills  or  rows.  Hoe 
often,  but  only  when  dry.  Plant  at  intervals  till 
last  of  July  for  a  succession. 

In  manuring  for  this  crop,  we  have  found  it 
works  well  to  give  the  land  a  fair  dressing  of 
manure  (lightly  worked  into  the  soil)  and  then 
give  a  light  application  of  some  fertilizer,  say 
wood  ashes,  or  Bowker's  Special  Phosphate,  in 
the  drill  at  the  time  of  planting.  This  seems  to 
give  the  crop  a  quicker  and  better  start  than  it 
gets  where  manure  is  applied  directly  in  the  drill. 
The  distance  apart  for  the  rows  should  be  from 

[101] 


OF    THE 

UNIVERSITY 

Of 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

three  to  three  and  a  half  feet,  and  the  seed  dropped 
from  four  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  drill  (which 
should  be  from  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
depth).  At  this  distance  apart,  about  one  bushel 
of  seed  would  be  required  per  acre,  where  all  the 
land  is  devoted  to  the  crop;  but  many  prefer  to 
plant  every  fourth  row  with  squash,  so  as  to  double- 
crop  the  land. 

A  fair  average  yield  per  acre  would  be  from 
three  hundred  to  four  hundred  bushels;  and  the 
crop  ought  to  bring  from  seventy  cents  to  one  dol- 
lar per  bushel.  A  good  picker  should  pick  two 
and  a  half  barrels  per  day,  or  about  eight 
bushels. 

After  the  crop  is  fairly  up,  the  cultivator  should 
be  run  through  lightly;  and,  at  the  second  hoeing 
a  little  earth  should  be  drawn  toward  the  plants 
to  support  them.  They  should  never  be  hoed 
or  worked  amongst,  if  it  can  possibly  be  avoided, 
at  times  when  they  are  wet,  either  by  rain  or  dew, 
as  there  is  much  danger  of  rusting  or  blighting 
the  crop. 

There  is  a  large  number  of  varieties  of  green 
and  wax  beans  and  many  of  these  are  identical, 
that  is,  they  have  been  renamed  by  the  grower  or 

[102] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

seedsman  and  differ  very  slightly  from  the  original 
variety. 

I  shall  devote  my  time  to  only  those  varieties 
which  are  now  grown  in  this  vicinity,  and  which 
the  market  demands. 

Of  the  green  and  pod  varieties  there  are  three 
classes,  namely,  string  or  snap  beans,  shell  beans, 
and  bush  Limas. 

Of  the  former  the  most  popular  are  the  Bounti- 
ful, Early  Red  Valentine,  Refugee,  Longfellow, 
Burpee  Stringless  Green  Pod.  The  Bountiful 
is  an  extra  early  variety,  very  prolific  and  with 
large  flat  pods  practically  stringless.  This  variety 
has  taken  the  place  of  the  Long  Yellow  Six  Weeks 
which  used  to  be  grown  universally. 

The  Early  Red  Valentine  is  as  early  as  any  of 
the  standard  sorts.  Bears  round  pods  of  medium 
size  and  quite  tender. 

The  Refugee,  or  1,000  to  1,  and  Extra  Early 
Refugee  are  both  excellent  snap  beans  with 
rather  small  round  pods  borne  in  great  abundance. 

Locally  these  two  varieties  are  grown  more 
for  late  planting  than  for  early.  The  seeds  are 
planted  in  July  or  early  August,  and  are  ready 
for  market  in  September  when  they  often  bring 

[103] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

a  very  good  price.  These  varieties  are  also 
largely  grown  in  the  South  for  Northern  markets 
in  the  early  spring. 

The  Longfellow  is  a  variety  of  rather  recent 
introduction  with  which  a  number  of  growers 
have  had  good  success. 

Valued  for  its  productiveness  and  for  the  length 
of  pod,  Burpee's  Stringless  Green  Pod  is  perhaps 
the  most  tender  of  all  the  green  varieties.  Very 
productive  with  large  thick  pods.  It,  however, 
like  all  tender  beans,  is  very  susceptible  to  rust 
during  the  wet  season. 

Of  the  shell  beans  there  are  three  that  are  in 
favour  with  the  growers  to-day,  namely,  Dwarf 
Horticultural,  Low's  Champion,  and  Goddard. 

The  Dwarf  Horticultural  is  probably  the  most 
widely  known.  The  pods  when  mature  are  yel- 
lowish and  thickly  splashed  writh  bright  crimson 
and  quite  plump. 

Low's  Champion  is  the  dwarf  red  cranberry 
bean,  with  large  pods  borne  well  off  the  ground, 
and  can  be  used  either  as  a  shell  or  snap  bean. 
It  is  very  productive.  Of  the  bush  Lima  beans, 
there  are  three  varieties  that  are  in  demand  with 
the  market  gardeners.  These  are  Dreer's  Bush 

[104] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

Lima,  Burpee's  Bush  Lima,  and  Henderson's 
Bush  Lima.  Dreer's  Bush  Lima  is  the  best,  as 
it  is  early  and  more  productive.  The  pods  are 
thick  and  succulent  and  contain  from  three  to 
five  beans  of  fair  size,  more  rounded  than  flat. 

Burpee's  Bush  Lima  bears  a  large  amount  of 
pods  containing  beans  very  flat  and  large,  similar 
to  the  large  white  pole  variety. 

Henderson's  Bush  Lima  is  the  dwarf  Sieva  or 
small  Lima.  It  matures  earlier  than  either  of  the 
above  two,  but,  being  smaller-podded,  will  not 
yield  as  many  bushels  as  the  Dreer's  Bush  Lima. 
The  above  three  varieties  are  much  more  tender 
than  the  sorts  that  precede  them  and  should  not 
be  planted  before  the  latter  part  of  May  or  rather 
till  the  ground  is  thoroughly  warm. 

Of  the  wax  varieties,  the  Wardwell  Kidney 
Wax,  Rawson's  Horticultural  Wax,  Davis  Kidney 
Wax  are  the  most  widely  grown  in  this  section, 
though  not  a  few  stick  to  the  older  varieties  as 
Golden  Wax,  Golden-Eyed  Wa.x,  Improved  Gol- 
den Wax,  and  Black  Wax. 

Wardwell  Kidney  Wax  is  remarkable  for  its 
productiveness.  Pods  are  long,  flat  and  handsome 
in  colour.  It  is  quite  susceptible  to  rust,  however, 

[105] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

during  a  wet  season.  On  account  of  this  fact 
many  prefer  the  Horticultural  Wax  which  is  prac- 
tically free  from  rust.  This  latter  variety  is  much 
better  for  a  market  variety  than  for  one's  own 
garden,  as  the  beans  have  to  be  picked  at  a  certain 
time,  before  they  get  too  stringy.  Davis  Kidney 
Wax,  while  a  fine  yielder  under  favourable  con- 
ditions, is  very  susceptible  to  rust.  The  pods 
when  right,  though,  are  handsome  and  sell  readily 
in  the  market. 

Of  the  older  varieties  the  old  Golden  Wax  is 
probably  the  most  tender  of  all,  but  not  so  profit- 
able from  a  grocer's  standpoint. 

Golden-Eyed  Wax  and  Improved  Golden  Wax 
are  much  hardier  than  the  old  Golden  Wax,  but 
not  so  prolific  as  the  first  three  varieties  mentioned, 
and,  therefore,  of  less  value  to  the  market  gardener. 

The  Pole  or  Running  kinds  are  less  hardy  than 
the  bush  varieties,  and  will  not  bear  planting 
quite  as  early.  From  about  the  middle  of  May 
to  the  first  of  June,  according  to  the  season,  is 
about  right  with  us. 

They  should  invariably  be  planted  in  hills, 
which  should  be  about  three  feet  apart,  with  rows 
four  feet  apart.  From  five  to  six  seeds  should 

[106] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

be  placed  in  each  hill,  with  the  eye  downward, 
and  should  be  covered  to  about  the  same  depth  as 
is  directed  for  bush  or  snap  beans.  A  quart  of 
seed  will  plant  a  hundred  and  fifty  hills;  the  poles 
should  be  set  at  the  time  of  planting. 

They  succeed  best  in  sandy  loam,  which  should 
be  liberally  enriched  with  short  manure  in  the 
hills.  Three  plants  in  a  hill  are  as  many  as  should 
be  allowed  to  grow,  and,  with  the  vigorous  growing 
kinds  on  strong  soil,  it  is  better  to  have  only  two. 
The  thinning  should  be  done  when  the  plants 
have  become  well  established.  They  bear  trans- 
planting well,  and  this  affords  a  means  of  filling 
up  around  the  poles  where  they  miss  or  fail  to  come 
up.  They  can  also  be  started  in  frames  and 
transplanted  to  the  open  ground,  so  as  to  secure 
an  advanced  stage  of  growth  and  earlier  maturity; 
but  this  method  is  not  extensively  practised. 
The  maturity  of  some  of  the  later  sorts  can 
be  hastened  by  nipping  off  the  tips  of  the  run- 
ners when  they  have  reached  the  height  of  four 
or  five  feet. 

Dreer's  Improved  Pole  Lima  is  the  best  of  the 
pole  Limas  for  the  market  gardener.  Pods  broad 
and  of  good  size;  very  productive.  Also  earlier 

[107] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

than  the  Large  White  Lima  or  King  of  the  Garden 
Lima.  Sieva  or  Small  Lima  is  very  productive 
and  will  continue  to  produce  crop  throughout  the 
season. 

Of  the  pole  beans,  the  variety  most  generally 
planted  for  the  market  is  the  Worcester  Pole. 
The  best  strains  of  this  variety  bear  enormously 
large,  long  pods  in  clusters,  brilliantly  coloured 
crimson.  Wonderfully  productive,  very  tender, 
and,  for  a  shell  bean,  surpasses  any  other  variety. 
Mammoth  Carmine  Podded  is  somewhat  similar 
and  possibly  originated  from  a  stock  of  Worcester 
Pole. 

Arlington  Red  Cranberry  bean  can  be  used  as  a 
snap  or  shell,  and  is  very  productive. 

The  old  Pole  Horticultural  is  not  grown  very 
extensively  now,  but  years  ago  was  the  peer  of 
any.  It  is  from  this  variety  that  the  Worcester, 
Brockton  and  other  "Speckled  Cranberry"  sorts 
have  come. 

Kentucky  Wonder  is  a  variety  enjoying  popular 
favour,  and  deservedly  so,  not  only  on  account 
of  its  productiveness,  but  also  for  its  quality, 
being  perfectly  stringless,  and  very  tender. 

Of  the  wax  podded  pole  varieties  the  Indian  Chief 
[108] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

and  Pole  Mont  d'Or  are  worthy  of  mention.  Both 
are  black-seeded,  very  productive  and  stringless. 

THE  BEET  (Beta  vulgaris)  is  one  of  the  most 
important  crops  and  is  of  comparatively  easy 
culture.  Where  possible,  a  rather  light,  sandy 
loam  should  be  selected  for  this  crop,  in  preference 
to  a  heavy  soil.  In  order  to  have  a  succession 
of  this  crop  throughout  the  year  seed  may  be  sown 
in  the  greenhouse  or  bed  the  latter  part  of  February 
or  early  in  March,  and  pricked  out  in  the  field 
in  beds  from  the  15th  to  the  20th  of  April.  They 
are  pricked  to  a  distance  of  from  6  to  7  inches 
apart  in  the  rows,  and  rows  one  foot  apart.  These 
pricked  beets  should  be  ready  for  market  generally 
the  latter  part  of  May,  and  invariably  bring  a 
good  price,  large  enough  to  warrant  the  extra 
trouble. 

For  the  first  crop  of  sowed  beets,  seed  should 
be  sown  about  the  middle  of  April  or  as  soon  as 
the  ground  is  in  a  suitable  condition  to  work. 

The  land  should  be  made  up  in  the  form  of 
beds  about  6  feet  wide,  the  rows  be  planted 
by  machine  at  a  distance  of  from  12  to  14  inches 
apart,  and  the  drills  should  be  at  least  one  inch 
deep.  It  is  well  to  sow  the  first  crop  rather  thick, 

[109] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

as  it  may  save  reseeding,  which  is  sometimes 
necessary  on  account  of  severe  weather  when  the 
young  plants  are  coming  up. 

After  the  plants  have  gained  a  good  foothold 
they  should  be  thinned  out  to  a  distance  of  from 
6  to  8  inches  apart.  Clean  culture  should,  of 
course,  be  given,  and  the  soil  well  enriched. 

The  above  remarks  apply  to  the  crop  when 
grown  for  early  marketing.  For  fall  or  winter 
use  seed  should  be  sown  from  the  last  of  June 
to  the  middle  of  July  according  to  the  variety  used. 

Of  the  varieties  now  in  use  by  successful  market 
gardeners  there  are  only  a  few  of  superior  merit. 
These  are  Crosby's  Egyptian,  Arlington  Favourite, 
Detroit  Dark  Red  and  Edmand's. 

Crosby's  Egyptian  is  probably  more  generally 
used  in  New  England  than  any  other.  As  an 
early  beet  it  has  no  superior,  as  it  reaches  the 
desired  size  quicker  than  any  other  sort.  The 
beets  are  of  good  size,  not  too  large,  rather  flat 
than  round,  and  possessing  that  deep  blood 
flesh  that  is  so  much  desired. 

This  variety  is  also  used  as  a  fall  beet,  planted 
early  in  July,  and  thinned  out  to  from  4  to  6  inches 
apart.  Can  be  kept  till  late  into  the  winter. 

[110] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

Arlington  Favourite  is  largely  used  for  a  second 
early  or  main  crop.  Beets  are  very  shapely  in 
form  with  smooth  skin,  and  fine  marketable  size. 
Flesh  is  deep  blood  red,  of  excellent  flavour,  very 
sweet  and  tender. 

Detroit  Dark  Red  is  a  nearly  globular  beet 
with  a  smooth  dark  skin  and  dark  flesh.  An 
excellent  sort  for  late  planting,  maturing  early 
and  keeping  crisp  and  tender.  Edmand's  is 
another  strain  which  is  used  for  late  planting, 
and  in  many  localities  cannot  be  surpassed.  The 
beets  run  very  even  in  size  and  grow  a  very  short 
top,  which  at  once  recommend  it  to  the  market 
gardener.  Flesh  is  also  deep  blood  red.  Con- 
sidered to  be  one  of  the  best-keeping  beets  grown. 

There  are  many  other  sorts  grown,  such  as 
Boston  Market,  Eclipse,  Dewing's,  etc.,  but  the 
four  varieties  mentioned  above  are  the  cream  of 
all  the  known  sorts  for  market  gardening. 

BEET  GREENS  are  also  grown  extensively  as 
a  crop  in  the  greenhouses,  and  often  bring  $1.00 
to  $1.50  per  bushel. 

Swiss  CHARD  is  a  sort  cultivated  largely  for 
its  broad  leaf-stalks.  The  stem  and  midrib  of  the 
leaf  may  be  boiled  and  served  similarly  to  aspar- 

[111] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

agus,  while  the  strippings  can  be  used  as  spinach. 
When  cut  it  should  be  cut  close  to  the  ground, 
allowing  new  growth  to  spring  up. 

In  marketing  beets,  the  pricked  crop  and  early- 
sown  crop  are  nearly  always  bunched. 

They  are  pulled  when  they  reach  the  circum- 
ference of  a  silver  dollar  and  tied  in  bunches  of 
four.  Eighteen  to  twenty-five  bunches  are  put 
in  a  bushel  box,  but  twenty  is  the  best  number, 
as  they  are  sold  by  the  bunch.  These  bunches 
bring  from  5  cents  to  2J  cents  per  bunch  according 
to  the  earliness  or  lateness  of  the  season. 

At  this  price  a  fair  crop  would  yield  $400  to 
$500  per  acre. 

Late  beets  are  always  sold  by  the  bushel,  and 
a  fair  yield  per  acre  would  be  300  bushels,  which 
should  bring  upward  of  $150. 

The  Crosby  Egyptian  Beet  is  often  used  as  a 
second  crop  following  cabbage,  peas,  beans  or 
spinach,  or  some  other  early  crop  that  will  be  out 
of  the  way  by  the  middle  of  July. 

For  this  late  sowing,  six  pounds  of  seed  to  the 
acre  is  sufficient,  but  for  the  early  spring  crop  at 
least  eight  pounds  should  be  used. 

BORECOLE,  or  KALE  (Brassica  oleracea  acephala) 
[112] 


CROSBY  EGYPTIAN  BEET 


RAWSON'S  PERFECTION  CABBAGE 


EARLY  JERSEY  WAKEFIELD   CABBAGE 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

is  a  name  applied  to  the  class  of  cabbage  which  does 
not  head,  but  is  used  as  an  esculent  in  its  open 
growth.  When  used,  the  crown  or  centre  of  the 
plant  is  cut  off  so  as  to  include  the  leaves,  which 
usually  do  not  exceed  nine  inches  in  length.  It 
boils  well,  and  is  more  tender,  sweet  and  delicate, 
provided  it  has  been  duly  exposed  to  frost.  To 
secure  heavy  crops  of  this  hardy,  useful  winter 
vegetable,  a  deep,  rich  soil  is  essential,  and  the 
ground  should  be  trenched  two  feet  deep  and 
liberally  manured.  Sow  about  the  middle  of 
April,  in  well-prepared  soil,  covering  the  seeds 
thinly  and  evenly.  Half  an  ounce  will  sow  a  bed 
of  twenty  square  feet.  Plant  out  in  June, 
and  cultivate  as  elsewhere  recommended  for 
cabbage. 

The  Dwarf  Purple,  or  Brown  Kale,  is  a 
beautiful  curled  variety,  with  reddish-tinted  leaves. 
Another  is  the  Green  Curled  Scotch,  which  is 
very  hardy,  and,  like  the  Savoys,  is  improved  by 
a  moderate  frost. 

In  cultivating  the  Improved  Siberian  variety  — 
a  strain  of  the  kind  known  as  German  Greens, 
or  "sprouts"  —  sow  in  September,  in  rows  one 
foot  apart,  and  treat  the  same  as  spinach.  This 

[113] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

is  a  very  hardy  kind,  much  grown  by  the  New 
York  gardeners. 

BROCCOLI  (Brassica  oleracea  botrytis)  is  a  variety 
of  cabbage  very  closely  resembling  the  cauliflower. 
There  is  scarcely  any  difference  between  the  two 
beyond  what  would  naturally  be  looked  for  be- 
tween different  varieties.  It  is  hardy,  and  sure  to 
head,  but  is  inferior  in  flavour. 

All  the  varieties  of  broccoli  require  a  rich,  deep 
soil ;  and  the  ground  should  be  trenched  to  a  depth 
of  at  least  two  feet,  well  incorporating,  as  the  work 
proceeds,  abundance  of  rich  manure.  Where 
the  object  is  to  obtain  fine  large  heads,  too  much 
manure  can  hardly  be  used. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  hot-beds,  for  early 
crops,  in  March  or  April;  for  main  crops,  in  the 
open  ground  in  May,  in  beds  of  well-pulverized 
rich  soil,  making  the  surface  fine,  and  then  beating 
the  seed  gently  into  the  ground,  and  covering  it 
with  fine  earth. 

One  ounce  will  sow  a  bed  of  forty  square  feet, 
and  produce  about  3,000  plants.  When  the  plants 
are  sufficiently  strong,  and  before  they  are  drawn 
by  growing  too  closely  together,  transplant  them 
into  nursery  beds  or  lines,  allowing  about  four 

[114] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 
inches  between  the  plants.     This  will  insure  strong, 
stocky  plants,  and  will  also  induce  the  formation 
of  an  extra  quantity  of  roots. 

Plant  in  permanent  situations  as  soon  as  the 
plants  are  sufficiently  established,  taking  care  not 
to  injure  the  roots,  in  rows  from  two  feet  to  two 
feet  six  inches  apart,  leaving  about  the  same  dis- 
tance between  the  plants.  Keep  them  well 
supplied  with  water  until  they  get  fairly  established, 
especially  the  early  varieties,  and  these  must  also 
be  liberally  watered  in  all  stages  of  their  growth 
during  dry  hot  weather. 

Keep  the  ground  well  stirred  between  the  rows, 
and  free  from  weeds.  When  they  begin  to  flower, 
break  the  large  leaves  over  the  heads  to  protect 
them  from  the  sun,  and  gather  them  before  they 
commence  running  up  to  seed.  Broccoli  thrives 
best  in  cool,  moist  fall  weather  —  hot,  dry  summer 
weather  not  being  suited  to  it.  The  heads  are 
cooked  the  same  as  cauliflower. 

English  seedsmen  catalogue  an  almost  endless 
number  of  varieties,  but  there  are  only  a  very  few 
of  distinct  and  admitted  merit.  Walcheren  is  an 
excellent  variety,  with  large  white  heads,  Early 
Purple  Cap  is  an  excellent  sort;  but  many  do  not 

[115] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

like  the  greenish  purple  colour  of  the  heads. 
White  Cap  is,  perhaps,  our  best  variety;  heads 
very  white  and  solid  —  a  sure  header. 

This  vegetable  is  not  raised  extensively  in  any 
section  of  this  country,  except  California. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  (Brassica  oleracea  bullata). 
This  is  yet  another  of  the  cabbage  family,  and 
like  broccoli  is  little  grown  here,  though  its  excellent 
qualities  seem  to  be  fully  appreciated  by  our 
English  cousins.  The  culture  is  simple,  and 
very  much  the  same  as  is  adopted  for  cauliflower 
or  cabbage  (except  that  it  must  be  remembered 
that  the  sprouts  are  a  little  less  hardy.  A  similar 
quantity  of  seed  is  required. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  March  or  April 
in  the  hot-bed,  or  in  the  open  ground  when  the 
weather  permits.  When  the  plants  are  about 
three  inches  high  they  should  be  transplanted. 
The  early  ones  will  be  ready  for  the  table  in  Sep- 
tember; the  late  ones,  for  winter  use,  should  be 
harvested  before  cold  weather,  and  stored  the 
same  as  cabbages  or  cauliflowers. 

The  small  heads,  which  grow  along  the  stem, 
are  the  eatable  parts  of  this  vegetable,  and  when 
boiled  like  cabbage,  or  stewed  with  cream,  like 

[116] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

cauliflower,  are  very  tender  and  delicious.  Where 
the  winters  are  not  very  severe,  they  may  remain 
in  the  ground,  to  be  cut  as  needed;  in  fact,  the 
sprouts  are  much  improved  by  a  moderate  frost. 
The  leaves,  which  resemble  the  Savoy,  should  be 
broken  down  in  the  fall  to  give  the  little  cabbages 
room  to  grow. 

Dwarf  Improved  is  very  tender  and  is  disting- 
uished for  fine  flavour;  it  is  the  best  kind  for 
general  use. 

CABBAGE  (Brassica  oleracea  capitata)  is  one  of 
the  most  important  and  one  of  the  best-paying 
crops. 

Lettuce  can  be  set  between  the  cabbage  rows, 
to  be  cut  off  before  the  growth  of  the  main  crop 
will  interfere  with  it.  In  this  manner  three  crops 
may  be  grown  each  season;  which  will  make  the 
land  pay  as  well  as  can  be  done  by  almost  any 
other  system  of  cropping. 

As  cabbages  require  a  large  amount  of  lime, 
they  should  not  be  grown  on  the  same  ground 
oftener  than  once  in  three  years,  unless  a  special 
application  of  lime  is  made.  This  is  often  done, 
and  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  New  York  City; 
but,  where  practicable,  it  is  better  to  avoid  devot- 

[117] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET   GARDENING 

ing  the  ground  continuously  to  crops  of  the  cabbage 
family.  And  it  is  also  better  to  avoid  putting  in 
cabbages  to  follow  any  shallow-feeding  crop 
(like  corn,  for  instance)  as  they  collect  the  greater 
part  of  their  nourishment  near  the  surface  and  are, 
moreover,  rank  feeders,  so  that  it  is  well  to  let 
them  follow  and  be  followed  by  some  deep-rooted 
crop. 

On  the  land  in  good  tillable  condition,  an  appli- 
cation of  twenty  cords  of  manure  per  acre  is  about 
what  will  be  required.  We  prefer  well-decom- 
posed horse  manure  to  any  other.  This  manure 
may  cost  about  $7  per  cord,  delivered  on  the 
place. 

The  applying  would  cost  about  $6;  ploughing, 
$2;  marking,  or  furrowing,  $2;  setting,  or  trans- 
planting, $5;  hoeing,  $5  (which  would  include 
cultivating) ;  plants  (6,000  at  $5  per  thousand),  $30; 
rent,  $25;  marketing,  $25;  making  a  total  of  $240. 

If  set  at  intervals  of  three  and  a  half  feet  by  two 
feet,  the  number  of  plants  that  can  be  grown  per 
acre  is  six  thousand.  And  it  thus  appears  that 
they  cannot  be  grown  at  smaller  actual  cost  than 
four  cents  per  head.  The  general  average  price 
is  only  six  cents,  which  would  indicate  a  profit 

[118] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 
of  only  $120  per  acre;   although,  of  course,  if  they 
should  bring  eight  or  ten  cents,  as  they  often  do, 
the  profit  would  be  handsomely  increased. 

It  will  be  seen  that  we  have  charged  all  the 
twenty  cords  of  manure  to  the  cabbages,  while 
in  fact  the  cabbages  only  take  a  share  of  it,  and 
usually  leave  an  abundance  for  the  crop  that 
follows.  So  it  becomes  a  rather  difficult  matter 
to  figure  the  exact  cost  by  itself  of  growing  a  field 
of  cabbages ;  but  after  the  second  crop  is  harvested 
it  will  be  an  easy  affair  to  distribute  the  expenses 
between  the  two,  and  thus  one  may  get  at  the 
matter  very  closely. 

If  it  is  seen  that  the  manure  which  has  been 
applied  is  not  sufficient  to  carry  out  the  crop,  a 
dressing  should  be  given  of  half  a  ton  of  some 
good  commercial  fertilizer  that  is  rich  in  potash. 
Wood  ashes,  when  obtainable,  are  excellent  for 
this  purpose. 

Although  the  list  of  cabbages  is  quite  large, 
there  is  a  large  number  that  we  can  discard  as 
useless  for  the  market  gardener. 

For  an  early  variety  you  will  have  to  grow  that 
sort  which  your  market  demands.  For  instance, 
the  Boston  market  will  not  take  so  well  to  the 

[119] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

pointed   or   sugar-loaf  varieties   as   some   of  the 
cities  south  of  Boston. 

Of  the  pointed  heads  the  following  have  been 
proved  to  be  superior:  Rawson's  Volunteer,  Early 
Etampes,  Jersey  Wakefield,  and  Charleston 
Wakefield. 

Rawson's  Volunteer  and  Early  Etampes  are 
similar  in  type,  the  former  having  the  advantage 
of  a  few  days  in  earliness.  The  heads  are  not 
quite  so  large  as  in  some  of  the  other  varieties, 
on  account  of  the  earliness  in  maturing. 

Early  Jersey  Wakefield  is  the  variety  most 
extensively  grown  and  is  superior  to  any  other  as 
regards  firmness,  sureness  of  heading  and  fine 
keeping  qualities. 

•  Charleston    Wakefield    is    similar     to     Jersey 
Wakefield,  but  much  larger  in  size. 

Of  the  early  round  flat-headed  sorts,  Early 
Spring  is  by  far  the  best.  Will  mature  close  upon 
Jersey  Wakefield,  and  is  remarkable  for  the 
uniformity  of  heads,  which  at  once  recommends 
it  to  the  market  gardener. 

Early  Summer  matures  about  ten  days  later 
than  Early  Spring.  Heads  are  very  solid  and  of 
excellent  size.  As  it  is  larger  than  the  preceding 

[120] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

sorts,  it  should  be  planted  a  little  farther  apart, 
say  about  twenty  inches  in  the  row,  and  the  rows 
three  and  a  half  feet  apart. 

Of  the  main  crop  or  second  early  varieties, 
All  Season,  Fottler's  Brunswick,  Succession  and 
Rawson's  Perfection  are  worthy  of  mention. 

All  these  have  larger  heads  than  the  extra  early 
sorts  and  are  very  compact  and  solid. 

For  late  or  winter  varieties,  Stone  Mason, 
Drumhead,  and  Danish  Ball  Head  are  the  best 
sorts  for  the  market  gardener.  The  heads  of  the 
Stone  Mason  are  very  large,  round,  wonderfully 
solid  and  of  a  crispness  and  tenderness  that  are 
remarkable. 

Danish  Ball  Head  or  Emperor  is  famous  for 
its  hard-heading  qualities.  The  remarkably  solid 
heads  are  round  in  form,  and  keep  in  excellent 
condition  when  buried  during  the  winter,  often 
coming  out  in  the  spring  perfectly  solid. 

The  wider  planting  is  better,  even  in  places 
where  cabbages  are  sold  entirely  by  weight.  We 
do  not  doubt  that  by  setting  two  feet  apart  each 
way  just  as  many  pounds  per  acre  could  be  raised; 
but  the  advantage  in  the  wider  style  of  planting  is 
that  fewer  plants  will  be  required  per  acre,  and 

[121] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

consequently  there  will  be  less  work  in  cutting; 
and  further,  the  cabbages  will  usually  be  harder 
and  of  better  quality. 

The  Curled  Savoy  comes  along  the  latest:  and 
is  grown  mostly  for  winter  use.  The  Globe  Curled 
is  the  popular  Curled  Savoy  cabbage  of  the  Boston 
market.  The  Drumhead  Savoy,  which  is  a  cross 
of  the  Globe  Curled  and  Drumhead,  is  a  large- 
headed  Savoy  cabbage,  tender  and  fine  flavoured, 
a  good  winter  variety.  It  differs  from  the  Curled 
in  being  of  larger  size  and  less  curled.  As  a  Savoy 
it  is  less  desirable  than  the  smaller  variety  for 
eating,  but  the  crop  is  a  profitable  one  to  raise. 
It  is  a  good  variety  for  winter  use. 

The  Savoy  cabbages  have  wrinkled  leaves  and 
have  a  peculiar  flavour  that  is  much  liked  by 
most  people.  They  are  improved  in  quality  by 
a  slight  touch  of  frost.  The  Globe  curled  variety, 
before  named,  is  an  American  sort.  English 
Curled  Savoy  is  a  peculiar  sort  used  for  early  spring 
greens. 

For  the  early  varieties,  which  we  have  mentioned 
above,  the  seed  is  usually  sown  in  hot-beds,  from 
the  10th  to  the  20th  of  February.  They  should 
be  covered  about  half  an  inch  deep.  In  about 

[122] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

four  weeks  they  are  ready  for  transplanting,  which 
is  usually  done  in  a  bed  from  which  a  crop  of 
lettuce  has  just  been  removed.  They  should  be 
put  in  about  three  and  a  half  inches  apart,  so  as 
to  give  them  plenty  of  room  to  grow  stout  and 
stocky.  By  this  rule  two  hundred  plants  are  put 
under  each  sash.  After  they  have  obtained  a 
good  start  the  sash  should  be  removed  gradually, 
to  allow  them  to  harden  off;  and  they  may  be 
given  all  the  protection  necessary  in  severe  weather 
by  the  use  of  shutters.  They  are  usually  trans- 
planted to  the  open  ground  either  the  last  week 
in  April  or  the  first  in  May,  according  to  the 
season. 

The  land  best  suited  to  this  crop  is  a  deep, 
rich,  loamy  soil,  and  should  be  prepared  by  very 
heavy  manuring;  lap  two  furrows  together  about 
three  and  one  half  feet  apart  and  beat  them  down 
nearly  level  with  a  fork.  A  sprinkling  of  wood 
ashes  on  the  young  plants  will  keep  off  the  cabbage- 
fly,  and  promote  their  growth. 

For  late  crops,  sow  from  June  1  to  June  20, 
and  even  as  late  as  the  1st  of  July,  in  the  field,  or 
in  beds,  so  as  to  transplant.  Cover  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  deep,  as  the  soil  is  drier  now  than  earlier 

[123] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

in  the  season.  Shade  and  water  the  late  sowings 
in  dry  weather  to  get  them  up. 

It  is  important  that  the  plants  should  stand 
thinly  in  the  seed-bed,  or  they  will  run  up  weak 
and  slender,  and  be  likely  to  make  long  stumps. 
When  the  weather  is  hot  and  dry  the  roots  of  the 
plants  may  be  dipped  in  a  puddle  of  loam  and 
water,  and  transplanted  just  at  evening,  giving 
each  plant  a  gill  of  water  at  the  root.  If  planting 
seeds  in  hills  twenty-two  inches  apart,  plant  six 
or  eight  seeds;  of  such  as  come  up,  reserve  one 
and  transplant  the  rest. 

Late  cabbages  are  usually  grown  as  a  second 
crop,  following  peas  or  something  similar  in  cul- 
ture; or  they  may  be  set  on  newly  turned  land 
which  has  been  in  early  grain  or  grass.  It  is  not 
generally  necessary  to  apply  as  much  manure  as 
for  the  early  crop;  twelve  cords  is  usually  an 
abundant  dressing,  especially  where  they  follow 
some  other  crop  which  has  been  well  manured 
the  same  season. 

To  keep  cabbage  through  the  winter,  commence 
by  making  a  small  bank,  say  about  one  and  a 
half  feet  high,  in  some  sheltered  locality.  Pull 
the  cabbage,  and  place  the  heads  against  the  bank 

[124] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

in  a  row  as  close  as  they  can  stand;  then  turn  up 
the  earth  with  the  plough  against  the  row.  Be 
careful  not  to  cover  the  head,  but  make  the  earth 
firm  around  the  roots.  Then  with  a  shovel 
square  down  the  bank  thus  made,  and  place 
another  row;  this  will  be  about  eight  or  ten  inches 
from  the  first;  and  so  continue  until  all  are  set  out. 
Another  way  is  to  place  the  cabbages  head  down- 
ward on  the  ground,  and  cover  the  heads  and 
stumps  with  dirt,  then  adding  hay  or  something 
similar  to  keep  out  the  frost.  This  protection 
should  also  be  given  in  banking  up  by  the  other 
method.  Put  on  enough  to  be  sure  that  they 
will  not  freeze  solid.  If  frozen  about  half  through, 
they  are  not  injured,  and  will  keep  quite  well. 
In  some  of  the  houses  where  cabbages  are  stored, 
they  are  placed  head  down  on  the  shelf,  laid 
as  close  as  possible,  and  only  one  deep.  The 
temperature  is  kept  at  about  the  freezing  point. 

CARROT  (Daucus  carotd)  has  become  during 
the  past  ten  or  fifteen  years  one  of  the  principal 
market  gardening  crops.  This  has  doubtless 
been  brought  about  by  the  increase  of  foreign 
population. 

Carrots  require  a  very  finely  pulverized  and  por- 
[125] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
ous,  sandy  loam  for  their  full  development,  and  for 
large  crops.  It  is  important  that  the  land  should 
not  be  too  rich,  as  then  the  crop  will  run  too  much 
to  tops;  and  still  they  should  not  be  placed  on 
poor,  light  soil  with  the  expectation  of  a  big  crop. 
Land  that  is  in  fairly  good  condition,  and  has 
been  manured  the  year  previous  for  some  other 
crop,  is  usually  quite  rich  enough  for  the  growing 
of  carrots. 

When  grown  under  glass  they  are  usually  sown 
with  radishes  from  the  10th  of  January  to  the  1st 
of  February.  Two  rows  of  radishes  are  sown  in 
the  hot-bed  and  then  one  row  of  carrots.  From 
the  middle  to  the  last  of  March  the  radishes  are 
ready  for  pulling,  which  leaves  the  carrots  in  full 
possession  of  the  bed. 

It  is  best  to  grow  in  the  above  manner  some 
variety  that  has  a  short  top  and  will  mature  early. 
Thus  the  two  best  varieties  are,  probably,  Nantes 
and  Chantenay. 

The  sash,  being  usually  removed  some  time 
between  March  20  and  April  1,  can  after  that  date 
be  used  for  some  other  purpose,  and,  until  warm 
weather  all  the  protection  needed  by  the  carrots 
may  be  given  with  shutters. 

[126] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

They  will  be  ready  for  pulling  and  bunching 
about  the  last  week  in  May  (taking  for  their 
growth  about  twice  the  time  of  the  radishes). 
At  this  season,  they  usually  bring,  on  an  average, 
$1  per  dozen  bunches,  five  carrots  being  put  in  a 
bunch,  and  at  this  price  the  crop  will  bring  about 
$1.50  per  sash. 

For  the  out-door  crop  there  is  only  one  variety 
that  appeals  to  the  market  gardener,  especially 
in  New  England,  and  that  is  the  Danvers  Half 
Long. 

Seed  is  sown  in  the  middle  of  April,  the  first 
sowings  preferably  in  beds  about  five  feet  wide 
in  order  to  get  the  carrots  out  in  time  to  follow 
with  celery.  Sow  five  rows  to  each  bed.  The 
outside  rows  on  each  bed  should  be  pulled  first 
as  soon  as  large  enough  for  bunching  in  order  to 
have  room  to  set  celery  plants  during  July.  From 
the  latter  part  of  July  the  carrots  are  sold  in  boxes. 

The  latter  sowings  for  late  summer  and  fall  or 
winter  use  are  sowed  in  drills  about  one  foot 
apart. 

CAULIFLOWER  (Brassica  oleracea  botrytis).  The 
culture  of  this  crop  involves  much  painstaking 
labour.  When  grown  in  large  quantities  they 

[127] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

are  usually  stored  in  the  fall  for  winter  marketing. 
They  are  one  of  the  various  forms  of  the  cabbage 
family  and  require  similar  general  treatment. 

In  the  ordinary  cabbage,  which  is  a  biennial 
plant,  the  rounded,  thick,  fleshy,  strongly  veined 
leaves  afford  the  edible  portion;  being  collected 
into  a  head  the  first  year,  at  the  summit  of  a  short 
and  stout  stem.  In  cauliflower,  and  similarly  in 
Broccoli,  the  nutritive  matter  mainly  concentrates 
in  short,  imperfect  flower-branches  collected  into 
a  flattish  head. 

It  is  naturally  a  fall  crop,  and  will  not  well  bear 
early  forcing,  although  the  heads  are  now  grown 
to  some  extent  in  hot-houses,  out  of  season,  thus 
commanding  high  prices.  They  are  more  or  less 
subject  to  club-root;  as  to  the  cause  and  remedy 
for  which  there  is  not  yet  much  satisfactory  infor- 
mation; and  there  are  other  limitations  to  their 
profitable  culture  which  gardeners  have  not  yet 
perfectly  learned. 

In  out-door  culture,  when  they  do  well  they 
will  usually  pay  better  than  early  cabbage;  but 
there  is  much  more  risk  in  cultivating  them.  As 
raised  in  this  locality,  about  six  thousand  are 
grown  per  acre,  and  if  maturing  well  will  bring  in 

[128] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

about  $700.  The  price  varies  from  $1  to  $2  per 
dozen. 

They  are  usually  grown,  like  late  cabbage, 
for  a  second  crop.  Sometimes  a  piece  of  land  is 
devoted  solely  to  them  through  the  season ;  but 
when  set  early  they  do  not  usually  head  as  well. 
From  the  first  of  May  until  the  first  of  July,  accord- 
ing to  the  date  when  plants  will  be  wanted  for 
setting,  is  the  time  to  put  in  the  seed.  It  is  a  crop 
that  well  repays  generous  treatment  in  cultivation. 
With  a  deep  rich  soil,  well  supplied  with  moisture, 
which  in  dry  seasons  must  be  artificially  furnished, 
cauliflowers  can  be  grown  well.  Frequent  hoeing 
and  a  liberal  supply  of  rich  liquid  manure,  to  keep 
up  a  continuous  and  rapid  growth,  will  produce 
splendid  heads  of  the  most  delicate  flavour.  It 
facilitates  blanching  if  the  leaves  are  gathered 
loosely  together,  and  tied  over  the  top  of  the  head 
to  protect  from  the  sun.  They  must  be  taken 
before  the  flowers  begin  to  open. 

There  is  no  garden  crop  that  is  pinched  more 
severely  by  a  drought  than  the  cauliflower;  and 
none,  perhaps,  which  will  pay  better  for  irrigation. 

Sowing  for  plants  of  the  very  earliest  varieties 
may  be  done  in  houses  or  hot-beds  in  February 

[129] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

or  March;  or  later  in  a  cold  frame.  Sow  as  late 
as  June  20  or  July  1,  for  late  crops,  in  beds  or  in 
hills,  covering  one  half -inch  deep.  For  the  early 
fall  crop,  sow  in  May  and  transplant  in  June,  in 
rows  four  feet  apart,  setting  the  plants  two  feet 
apart  in  the  row;  water  frequently  if  the  ground 
be  dry. 

As  directed  for  cabbage  culture  —  give  the 
young  plants  special  attention,  if  the  weather  be 
hot  and  dry  at  the  time  of  transplanting,  and  use 
means  already  described  to  prevent  injury  result- 
ing from  their  roots  becoming  in  the  least  dry 
from  exposure  to  sun  or  air.  Transplant  at 
evening  as  far  as  practicable;  and  always  choose 
a  moist  day  rather  than  a  dry  one,  if  circumstances 
permit  a  choice. 

The  young  plants  are  frequently  attacked  by  a 
little  black  beetle,  but  its  ravages  may  be  stopped 
by  frequent  applications  of  plaster  dusted  on  in 
the  morning  while  the  dew  is  on. 

For  the  main  crop,  early  variety,  there  is  with 
us  nothing  so  good  as  Rawson's  Sea  Foam,  which 
derives  its  name  from  the  pure  white  colour  of 
the  heads.  It  is  quite  distinct  and  the  surest 
header  we  know  of.  The  Snowball,  being  a  very 

[130] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

sure  header,  is  quite  desirable,  although  not  equal- 
ling the  Sea  Foam  with  us.  The  Early  Dwarf 
Erfurt  is  one  of  the  standard  varieties,  and  used 
for  both  early  and  late  sowings.  It  is  a  very  sure 
header,  not  large,  but  even  in  size.  The  Late 
Erfurt  is  a  later  strain  of  the  preceding,  and 
consequently  requires  a  longer  season  to  reach 
maturity.  It  is  a  large  size.  The  Algiers  is  a 
splendid  sort,  the  largest  and  latest  of  all  the  vari- 
eties grown.  It  is  the  kind  most  in  use  for  pickling, 
because  of  its  superior  size  and  weight. 

CELERIAC  or  Turnip-Rooted  Celery  (Apium 
graveolens  rapaceum),  although  but  little  used 
in  this  country,  is  quite  popular  in  Europe,  espe- 
cially in  Germany  and  France.  It  is  rather 
peculiar  in  its  manner  of  growth.  It  is  started, 
and  in  its  early  stages  should  be  treated,  precisely 
like  celery,  except  that,  as  it  requires  but  a  slight 
earthing  up,  the  plants  may  be  set  much  closer. 
Two  feet  apart  for  the  rows,  and  eight  inches  for 
the  plants,  will  give  abundance  of  room.  The 
sowing  should  be  done  early  in  the  spring  in  light, 
rich  roil;  transplant  in  May  into  beds  and  water 
freely  in  dry  weather.  The  earthing  up  is  done 
when  the  plants  are  nearly  full-grown,  and  the  bulbs 

[131] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
should  be  covered  to  a  depth  of  four  or  five  inches. 
In  about  a  month  they  will  have  become  sufficiently 
blanched.  The  globe-shaped  bulbous  roots  form 
the  edible  portion,  and  are  commonly  ready  for 
use  in  October.  For  winter  use  they  may  be 
stored  in  trenches  after  the  manner  in  which  celery 
is  kept;  or  placed  in  sand  in  a  cool  cellar. 

They  are  used  on  the  table  in  various  ways; 
they  may  be  put  into  soups;  or  sliced  and  used 
with  vinegar,  making  a  most  excellent  salad;  or 
cooked  by  boiling,  after  being  scraped  and  sliced, 
till  they  have  become  very  tender,  after  which 
they  are  stewed  in  just  milk  enough  to  cover,  then 
seasoned  with  salt  and  served  with  butter.  A 
very  productive  variety  is  known  as  "Apple- 
Shaped";  very  regular,  almost  spherical  in  form, 
with  a  fine  neck  and  small  leaves;  it  may  be 
planted  very  thickly  and  will  yield  a  heavy  crop. 
It  is  botanically  classed  as  a  kind  of  celery,  and 
is  often  catalogued  by  seedsmen  as  a  variety  of 
that  plant. 

CELERY  (Apium  graveolens).  Although  the 
culture  of  this  crop  has  become  widely  extended, 
and  the  amount  of  annual  product  has  vastly 
increased  of  late  years  and  is  still  continually 

[132] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

increasing,  it  is  none  the  less  a  fact  that  the  profit- 
able management  of  it  is  a  matter  of  exceeding 
difficulty.  The  crop  is  one  that  demands  more 
careful  and  laborious  attention  than  almost  any 
other  in  the  market -gardener's  list. 

The  seed  is  extremely  small  and  remarkably 
slow  in  germinating,  and  this  presents  at  the 
outset  one  of  the  difficulties  of  celery  growing, 
viz.,  securing  a  good  stand  of  plants  to  commence 
with.  To  accomplish  this  demands,  amongst  other 
things,  a  seed-bed  well  and  thoroughly  prepared, 
a  careful  choice  of  the  most  suitable  varieties 
and  a  skilful  sowing  of  well-selected  seed. 

In  choosing  a  place  for  starting  the  plants,  find 
if  possible  a  cool  and  partially  shaded  spot.  The 
soil  should  be  put  in  good  condition  and  firmed 
down.  After  it  is  prepared  in  this  respect,  rake 
the  surface  lightly  and  sow  on  the  seed  broad- 
cast, then  place  a  hot-bed  shutter,  or  a  plank,  on 
the  surface,  and  have  a  man  walk  or  jump  upon 
it  until  the  soil  is  again  well  compacted.  After 
this,  sift  on  soil,  using  just  enough  to  cover  the 
seed  lightly,  not  over  a  quarter  of  an  inch  at  most. 
Then  pat  down  moderately  with  the  back  of  a 
spade  or  shovel,  and  the  work  is  done,  except 

[133] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
watering,  until  the  plants  are  well  up,  which  will 
usually  be  at  the  end  of  three  or  four  weeks'  time. 
The  bed  should  be  kept  constantly  moist,  but 
not  too  wet.  An  ounce  of  seed  should  sow  a  space 
about  six  feet  square,  and  should  furnish  fully 
six  thousand  plants.  The  seed  does  not  suffer 
from  age  until  it  is  over  five  years  old. 

In  describing  the  foregoing  method  we  have 
assumed  that  the  plants  are  to  be  lifted  and  trans- 
planted, but  many  growers  sow  the  seed  in  the 
rows  where  the  crop  is  to  stand.  On  many 
accounts  we  prefer  the  former  plan.  You  will 
always  get  a  much  more  even  and  generally  a 
more  vigorous  stand  by  transplanting,  than  when 
the  plants  have  grown  from  seed  sown  in  the  field 
and  have  been  cultivated  by  thinning  out;  and 
the  former  plan  has  been  found  in  our  experience 
to  succeed  the  best  all  the  way  through.  Still, 
since  the  results  of  the  same  experiments  will  often 
vary  in  different  localities  and  under  differing 
conditions,  it  may  be  well  for  any  one  to  try  both 
methods,  and  to  follow  up  the  trial  far  enough  to 
perceive  which  it  is  that  seems  the  one  best  adapted 
to  his  own  situation.  Much  may  be  found  to 
depend  upon  the  natural  quality  of  the  soil  —  its 

[134] 


i 
•< 


PARIS  GOLDEN  SELF-BLANCHING  CELERY 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

condition  of  tilth  and  general  preparation  —  the 
risks  resulting  from  the  vicissitudes  of  the  weather, 
etc.  Yet  the  fact  remains  that  it  is  usually  much 
better  and  easier  to  transplant  a  crop  from  the  seed- 
bed than  to  thin  out  a  standing  one,  and  the  plants 
so  established  will  exhibit  a  more  uniform  growth. 

When  the  celery  is  to  follow  cabbage  or  other 
early  crops,  the  plants  are  usually  twice  trans- 
planted —  once  from  the  seed-bed,  and  again 
when  set  out  permanently  in  the  open  field.  When 
lifted  from  the  seed-bed,  they  are  put  out  five  or 
six  inches  apart,  so  that,  when  next  to  be  removed 
they  can  be  lifted  singly,  and  without  their  being 
so  violently  disturbed  as  when  lifted  from  a  bed 
where  they  have  grown  too  large  standing  close, 
and  with  the  roots  all  twined  together. 

In  this  section,  celery  is  invariably  grown  as  a 
second  or  third  crop.  The  soil  best  adapted  to 
celery  is  a  strong,  deep,  sandy  loam,  naturally 
moist;  the  crop  needs  and  must  have  plenty  of 
moisture  during  droughts,  or  a  shortage  will  be 
the  inevitable  result. 

When  celery  is  to  follow  early  cabbage,  it  is  the 
usual  custom  to  plough  the  land  before  setting 
the  plants.  But  no  manure  should  be  applied 

[135] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

beyond  that  already  in  the  soil.  Experience  proves 
that  the  land  is  usually  able  to  carry  out  the  crop 
better  by  relying  upon  the  unconsumed  portion 
of  the  fertilizers  supplied  to  the  earlier  crop  than 
by  addition  of  fresh  manure. 

Care  must  be  taken  to  set  the  plants  at  just 
the  right  depth  —  just  so  deep  as  not  to  cover 
the  crown  —  and  the  loosened  soil  must  be  pressed 
down  and  brought  together  firmly  about  the  roots. 
Celery  of  all  kinds  should  be  planted  for  level 
culture,  and  not  in  trenches. 

We  have  usually  had  the  rows  four  to  five  feet 
apart,  and  plants  six  inches  apart  in  the  row. 
The  only  cultivation  necessary  after  the  setting, 
until  it  is  time  for  the  hilling-up  —  usually  termed 
banking  —  consists  in  keeping  the  ground  free 
from  weeds  and  the  surface  mellow.  Never  hoe 
or  bank  when  wet. 

Where  the  celery  is  set  out  for  a  late  crop,  and 
is  to  be  banked  but  once,  the  plants  may  in  that 
case  be  set  in  rows  only  four  and  a  half  feet  apart. 
The  first  transplanting  is  to  be  done  in  June,  the 
second  in  July;  sometimes,  in  a  very  wet  season, 
it  may  be  successful  if  as  late  as  the  first  week  in 
August. 

[136] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

If  the  crop  has  been  planted  out  early,  banking 
may  begin  the  first  week  in  September,  or  about 
four  weeks  before  it  is  wanted.  Two  bankings 
will  suffice  for  the  early  crop,  and  they  should  be 
timed  about  ten  days  apart.  For  later  use,  say 
about  Thanksgiving  time,  commence  about  the 
first  of  October;  repeat  the  banking  about  the 
tenth,  and  still  again  about  the  twentieth.  For 
winter  use,  bank  about  the  fifteenth  or  later, 
according  to  the  season;  and  if  the  celery  is  not 
very  large,  one  banking  will  be  sufficient,  as  it 
only  requires  to  be  straightened  up  to  have  it 
keep  long;  and  it  is  better  if  blanched  but  very 
little. 

When  it  is  ready  for  storing  it  should  be  taken 
up  and  placed  in  pits  prepared  for  the  purpose. 
The  roots  should  be  covered  the  same  as  if  they 
were  standing  in  the  ground;  and  should  be 
placed  about  six  inches  apart,  if  they  are  to  remain 
on  hand  long,  so  as  to  allow  the  air  to  circulate 
properly.  ^ 

To  prepare  a  pit  for  storing  celery  make  the 
sides  of  plank,  twenty-four  feet  apart  and  about 
two  feet  high  from  the  ground.  The  boards  for 
covering  should  be  thirteen  feet  long,  the  ends 

[137] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

of  two  lengths  meeting  each  other  on  the  centre 
of  the  pit;  where  it  should  have  an  interior  height 
of  six  feet.  Enough  loam  is  thrown  out  from  the 
inside,  in  forming  the  pit,  to  embank  the  sides 
and  ends. 

In  setting  the  celery,  commence  at  one  end  of 
the  pit;  dig  a  trench  about  three  inches  deep,  and 
set  in  the  celery  as  closely  as  you  can  in  the  row. 
In  taking  up  loam  for  covering  the  roots  of  one 
row,  another  trench  is  obtained  for  setting  down 
the  next.  Be  careful  to  make  it  stand  up  perfectly 
straight;  and,  either  in  the  field  or  in  the  pit,  the 
yellow  leaves  should  all  be  removed  before  the 
packing  in. 

The  pit  can  be  extended  to  any  length  desired, 
and  partitions  may  be  employed :  so  that  portions 
of  the  stock  can  be  kept  cooler,  and  so  held  back; 
or  can  be  kept  warmer  and  ripened  off. 

The  boards  covering  the  pits  must  be  put  on  as 
fast  as  the  celery  is  got  in.  Small  ventilators, 
about  one  foot  square,  are  constructed  along  the 
centre,  about  twenty  feet  apart.  These  are  opened 
in  clear  and  moderately  cold  weather;  and  thus 
the  temperature  is  kept  at  about  35°  to  40°  Fahren- 
heit, until  a  supply  is  wanted  for  market  —  when 

[138] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 
they  can  be  kept  closed,  and  the  celery  allowed  to 
ripen. 

The  best  material  with  which  to  cover  the  celery 
for  long  keeping  is  salt  hay ;  but  it  can  be  ripened 
quickest  under  seaweed,  which  packs  very  closely 
when  wet.  One  foot  in  thickness  is  sufficient  for  its 
protection  if  the  outside  thermometer  does  not  go 
below  zero.  Some  old  mats  or  shutters  may  be  put 
on  for  a  short  time  when  the  weather  is  very  cold. 
Thermometers  should  be  provided  —  one  to  be  kept 
near  each  end ;  and,  if  the  pit  is  one  hundred  feet 
long,  or  more,  one  will  be  needed  in  the  middle. 

In  taking  up  loam  for  covering  the  roots  of  one 
row,  another  trench  is  obtained  for  setting  down 
the  next.  A  space  of  about  six  inches  is  usually 
left  between  each  row  and  the  next,  to  afford  an 
air  circulation;  but,  if  the  lot  is  not  required  to 
remain  on  hand  long,  this  space  is  not  necessary, 
and  the  rows  may  be  brought  close  together.  As 
much  dirt  as  possible  may  be  left  on  the  roots 
and  it  will  keep  all  the  better."  The  roots  only 
should  be  covered  with  the  loam,  and  no  part  of 
the  stalk.  It  should  not  be  put  into  the  pit  in  a 
wet  condition  if  it  is  intended  to  have  it  remain 
there  for  any  long  time. 

[139] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
The  Golden  Heart  celery  is  grown  mostly  by 
gardeners  in  the  celery  region  of  Kalamazoo,  and 
is  set  in  rows  four  and  one-half  feet  apart,  and 
four  inches  apart  in  the  row;  but  it  takes  from 
six  to  twelve  of  their  roots  to  make  one  of  ours. 
They  get  about  one  cent  per  root  for  their  celery, 
and  we  sell  ours  for  prices  ranging  from  two  to 
ten  cents  per  root. 

The  varieties  now  most  in  favour  are  Paris 
Golden,  White  Plume,  Giant  Pascal,  and  Boston 
Market.  The  first-named  is  grown  for  earliest. 
The  plants  may  stand  quite  close  in  the  row  —  at 
six  or  eight  inches  apart,  and  with  rows  only 
20  inches  apart.  When  set  in  this  manner,  every 
other  row  is  blanched  by  setting  up  boards,  running 
lengthwise,  on  each  side  of  the  row.  The  same 
method  may  be  followed  with  the  intervening 
rows,  or  they  can  be  banked  with  earth  after  the 
first  have  been  blanched  and  gone  to  market. 
Celery  blanched  with  boards  is  more  easily 
cleaned  for  the  table  or  market,  but  the  process 
is  less  efficient  as  a  means  of  inducing  crisp  and 
tender  growths.  Paris  Golden  is  also  known  as 
Golden  Self-Blanching,  and  the  designation  is 
true,  to  a  certain  extent,  owing  to  its  close  habit 

[140] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

and  compact,  erect  manner  of  growth.  This 
shapely  style  of  growth,  and  also  the  clear  golden- 
yellow  colour  of  the  hearts,  and  of  the  leaves, 
after  the  blanching  process  has  been  applied, 
contribute  to  make  it  a  very  attractive  kind.  It 
is  a  sort  very  easily  grown;  it  shows  well  when 
put  up  for  market;  keeps  well  in  the  boxes,  and 
looks  well  on  the  table;  but  it  is  not  first-class 
in  quality.  However,  for  early  use,  large  quantities 
are  disposed  of,  and  the  thing  that  will  sell  is  the 
thing  to  grow.  It  is  usually  sold  from  the  field, 
being  a  sort  that  does  not  keep  well  in  pits;  and 
lasts  till  after  Thanksgiving. 

White  Plume,  already  spoken  of,  is  attractive- 
looking  in  growth,  and  also  when  prepared  for 
market  is  very  handsome;  and  is  of  excellent 
quality.  This  sort  is  blanched  by  banking  with 
earth  until  ready  for  market;  like  Paris  Golden, 
it  is  best  sold  directly  from  the  field.  The  inner 
stalks  and  leaves  of  this  variety  are  naturally  white. 

Giant  Pascal  is  the  variety  most  largely  grown 
for  late  celery  or,  as  it  is  called  in  Boston  markets, 
Green  Celery.  Unsurpassed  for  keeping  and 
will  yield  more  bunches  to  the  acre  than  any 
other  of  the  late  sorts. 

[141] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

Boston  Market  is  the  oldest  of  all,  and  when 
properly  grown  is  still  best  of  all.  It  is  very 
liable  to  blight  unless  grown  on  moist  land;  it 
will  keep  longest  of  any,  but  all  depends  on  it 
being  grown  well. 

For  profit,  the  Paris  Golden  and  Pascal  will  do 
best.  The  Pascal  can  be  grown  six  inches  apart 
in  the  row,  three  to  four  feet  between  rows  and 
Boston  Market  the  same,  by  the  latest  practice. 

The  market  now  demands  a  bunch  of  solid 
hearts ;  this  is  made  by  putting  two  or  three  together. 
Preparing  the  celery  for  market  is  laborious 
and  expensive  —  the  most  expensive  stage  through 
which  it  passes.  Every  separate  root  has  to  be 
dug,  trimmed,  knifed,  washed,  and  packed.  Some 
times  two  or  even  three  roots  are  required  to  make 
a  bunch  equivalent  to  one  good-sized  root.  It  is 
usually  packed  in  boxes,  twelve  to  eighteen  in  each. 
It  cannot  be  grown  (counting  every  root)  for  less 
than  two  cents  per  root,  and  leave  any  profit  to 
the  grower.  It  is  sold  by  market  gardeners  at 
wholesale,  by  the  box  of  one  or  one  and  a  half 
dozen,  the  price  ranging  from  75  cents  per  dozen 
to  $3.00  for  the  late  winter  market. 

CHICORY  (Cichorium  Intybus)  is  generally 
£142] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

grown  for  the  roots,  which  are  used  for  adultera- 
ting coffee;  but  sometimes  the  plants,  when  about 
a  foot  high,  are  tied  together  at  the  top,  and  then 
earthed  up  to  bleach,  like  celery.  When  so  treated 
they  make  a  good  salad.  The  seed  should  be 
sown  early  in  the  spring,  in  drills  fifteen  or  eighteen 
inches  apart,  and  half  an  inch  deep.  The  plants 
when  well  up  should  be  thinned  to  six  or  eight 
inches.  It  is  a  poor  crop  to  introduce  on  a  farm, 
or  in  a  garden,  for  if  allowed  to  go  to  seed,  it  will 
spread  all  over  the  place. 

CHIVES  (Allium  Schcenoprasum)  are  a  small, 
bulbous-rooted  variety  of  the  onion  family;  entirely 
hardy  in  any  part  of  the  United  States.  Of  late 
years  they  are  less  grown  than  formerly,  Then, 
no  family  garden  was  considered  properly  stocked 
without  a  few  bunches  of  chives.  They  require 
no  culture  beyond  keeping  the  ground  free  from 
weeds,  and  can  be  continuously  grown  on  almost 
any  soil  year  after  year  without  change  of  location. 
They  are  propagated  by  dividing  the  root,  like 
pie-plant,  or  rhubarb,  and  the  sets  should  be  put 
in  at  ten  or  twelve  inches  apart.  The  leaves  or 
stalks  are  the  edible  portion,  and  may  be  repeatedly 
cut  off,  as  they  continually  renew  themselves  during 

[143] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

the  growing  season.  Sometimes  they  are  used  in 
soups,  for  flavouring;  but  more  commonly  in  the 
raw  state,  for  garnishing.  In  old-time  gardens, 
chives  were  often  set  out  as  borders  for  vegetable- 
beds,  as  they  needed  no  renewing,  and  their 
bright  green  colour  was  quite  ornamental. 


[144] 


CHAPTER   V 

VEGETABLES,    ETC.  CONTINUED. 

(Zea  Mays).  The  common  field  sort  is 
not  a  market-garden  crop:  yet  we  cannot  leave 
wholly  unmentioned  this,  the  "king  crop  of  the 
country."  The  cheap  and  easily  tilled  lands  of 
the  great  West,  with  the  labour-saving  machinery 
lately  brought  into  use,  furnish  this  corn  at  such 
low  prices  that  many  farmers  prefer  to  buy  their 
supply  rather  than  grow  it.  But,  where  there  is 
suitable  land  that  is  not  too  valuable,  it  is,  in  our 
opinion,  cheaper  in  the  long  run  for  the  owner 
to  grow  his  home  supply. 

The  soil  best  adapted  to  corn  is  what  is  generally 
called  "warm"  land;  that  is,  a  rather  light  sandy 
or  gravelly  loam  with  a  porous  subsoil,  well 
enriched  arid  thoroughly  worked. 

There  is  no  crop  which  will  respond  more 
quickly  to  careful  and  liberal  treatment,  as  is 
proved  by  the  fact  that,  within  the  last  few  years, 

[145] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

so  large  a  yield  as  240  bushels  of  ears  has  been 
produced  on  a  single  acre;  and  this  was  in  the 
Eastern  States,  where  —  so  our  Western  neigh- 
bours claim  —  we  have  no  good  land.  This  is, 
of  course,  only  a  single  instance,  and  the  large 
crop  was  obtained  by  exceptionally  careful  culture. 

In  the  Middle  States,  or  in  Southern  localities, 
it  is  well  to  get  Northern-grown  seed,  which,  if 
carefully  selected,  is  sure  to  be  earlier.  Within 
the  past  few  years  some  marked  improvements 
have  been  made  in  varieties  of  field  corn,  which 
will,  no  doubt,  prove  permanent  acquisitions; 
but  farmers  should  not  put  too  much  confidence  in 
novelties. 

Sweet  Corn,  also  —  unless  when  grown  ex- 
pressly for  extra  early  marketing  —  is  too  little 
profitable  for  a  garden  crop,  and  in  fact  is  very 
little  grown  by  gardeners.  The  principal  sort 
raised  in  this  vicinity  is  the  Extra  Early  Crosby  — 
that  being  the  earliest  of  all.  A  strong,  sandy 
loam  is  its  favourite  soil.  It  should  be  planted, 
for  the  early  crop,  about  the  first  of  May.  Sow 
in  rows  four  feet  apart,  and  hills  three  or  four 
feet  apart  in  the  row,  according  to  the  condition 
of  the  soil.  It  is  usually  manured  in  the  hill 

[146] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

(besides  the  broadcasting)  with  one  or  two  shovel- 
fuls of  well-rotted  manure.  The  corn  is  planted 
by  hand;  and,  in  early  planting,  should  be  covered 
not  over  one  inch  deep.  Later  plantings  should 
be  put  in  deeper.  At  thinning  time  four  plants 
should  be  left  in  each  hill.  Clean  culture  should 
be  given,  and  the  earth  should  be  drawn  slightly 
toward  the  hills  so  that  water  will  not  stand  about 
the  stalks. 

If  the  season  should  prove  favourable,  the  early 
crop  should  be  ready  for  marketing  about  July  15th. 
At  this  date  there  would  be  little  corn  in  the  market 
except  that  brought  from  the  South,  and  the  ears 
should  bring  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  cents  per 
dozen.  At  this  price  the  crop  from  an  acre  would 
bring  from  $300  to  $350.  If  the  Extra  Early 
Crosby  is  grown,  the  whole  crop  may  be  harvested 
at  two  pickings,  and  marketed  before  other  sorts 
come  in  to  any  extent.  As  an  additional  advantage 
the  land  is  cleared  in  time  for  a  second  cropping. 
The  true  early  variety  does  not  grow  over  three 
and  a  half  or  four  feet  high.  The  Early  Crosby 
(an  older  variety)  is  a  favourite  with  many 
growers  and  private  gardeners  as  a  medium  early 
sort. 

[147] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

Early  Red  Cory  and  White  Cob  Cory  are  popular 
among  some  growers.  They  are  fine  yielders 
but  not  of  extra  good  quality. 

Quincy  Market  is  another  sort  and  of  better 
quality  than  the  Corys,  though  not  so  early. 
Concord  Bearsfoot  is  becoming  one  of  the  standard 
sorts.  A  great  yielder  and  of  the  finest  quality. 

Potter's  Excelsior  or  Squantum  is  an  old  variety 
and  still  largely  grown. 

The  Moore's  Concord  is  a  twelve-  to  sixteen- 
rowed  sort,  not  raised  by  market  gardeners, 
because  it  is  so  late  that  by  the  time  it  is  ready 
for  picking  the  market  is  flooded.  No  one  can 
afford  to  raise  it  except  farmers  who  have  an 
abundance  of  land,  and  to  whom  the  stover  is 
of  as  much  value  as  the  ears.  The  quality  of  this 
variety  is  most  excellent,  and  the  ears  are  large. 
Marblehead  Mammoth  is  a  first-rate  large-eared 
variety,  twelve-  to  eighteen -rowed,  of  vigorous 
growth  and  excellent  quality;  cob  white,  large  and 
well  filled;  very  productive  and  fine-flavoured, 
the  largest  and  latest  of  all.  Stowell's  Evergreen 
is  yet  another  late  standard  sort,  twelve-  to  sixteen- 
rowed,  very  sweet  and  of  good  quality;  keeps  in  a 
green  state  longer  than  any  other  kind. 

[148] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

CORN  SALAD  (Valerianella  olitoria),  or  Fetticus, 
is  a  peculiar  vegetable,  used  entirely  as  a  salad. 
In  England  it  is  largely  grown.  Some  years  ago 
it  was  very  frequently  raised  among  growing  corn, 
but  it  is  now  considered  better  to  give  the  crop 
full  possession  of  the  land.  It  is  but  little  grown 
for  the  Boston  market,  but  in  New  York  there 
is  quite  a  demand  for  it.  It  should  be  sown  as 
early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked, 
in  rows  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  apart.  If  the 
weather  is  favourable,  it  should  be  ready  for  use 
in  about  two  months  from' the  date  of  sowing. 
When  an  early  spring  supply  is  to  be  provided  for, 
it  may  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  September. 
The  plants  should  receive  a  covering  of  straw, 
or  marsh  hay,  as  soon  as  cold  weather  comes. 
They  start  very  early  in  the  spring,  and  therefore 
the  covering  should  be  removed  in  March  or  early 
April.  The  further  treatment  and  marketing  are 
the  same  as  with  spinach. 

CRESS  (Lepidiwn  sativum),  or  Peppergrass,  is 
in  some  respects  like  Corn  Salad.  The  culture 
is  very  simple.  Sow  in  early  spring,  in  rows  twelve 
or  fifteen  inches  apart.  Make  a  sowing  every 
ten  or  fifteen  days,  as  it  runs  very  quickly  to  seed. 

[149] 


SUCCESS  IN   MARKET   GARDENING 

The  leaves,  when  young,  have  a  pungent  taste 
and  are  used  as  a  salad,  and  also  for  garnishing. 
The  Curled  is  the  best  for  general  use,  although 
several  other  varieties  are  cultivated. 

UPLAND  CRESS  (Barbarea  vulgaris)  is  classed 
as  a  separate  vegetable,  being  different  from  the 
common  curled  Cress  both  as  regards  parentage 
and  habit  of  growth  —  though  similarly  used  as  a 
small  salad.  It  is  a  hardy  perennial,  thriving  on  any 
soil,  wet  or  dry.  It  makes  an  early  appearance  in 
spring,  and  grows  with  such  extraordinary  rapidity 
that  in  a  few  days  it  may  be  gathered  for  use, 
weeks  ahead  of  any  other  out-door  growths. 
It  is  as  easy  of  culture  as  spinach,  can  be  grown 
easily  for  two  years  without  resowing,  and  yields 
enormous  crops.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in 
April. 

CUCUMBER  (Cucumis  sativus).  While  this  is 
a  very  important  out-door  crop,  it  is  also  very 
extensively  grown  under  glass,  for  the  Boston 
market;  and  cultivated  in  this  manner  (as  a  forced 
crop)  it  is  probably  dealt  in  to  a  larger  extent  here 
than  in  any  other  market  in  the  United  States. 
Almost  every  market  gardener  in  this  section  who 
has  any  glass  runs  it,  either  early  or  late,  to 

[150] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

cucumbers.  As  is  well  known,  the  plant  is  a  very 
tender  one  when  grown  out  of  doors,  and  when 
forced  under  glass  is  much  more  so. 

For  growing  in  beds,  the  seed  for  the  first  crop 
is  generally  sown  about  the  middle  of  March. 
When  the  plants  are  sufficiently  grown  they  are 
transplanted,  being  set  four  in  a  hill;  and  thirty- 
two  hills  being  put  under  each  3x6  sash.  They 
are  left  to  grow  in  this  manner  until  they  are  about 
four  inches  high  (which  usually  takes  about  four 
weeks  from  the  time  of  sowing).  They  are  then 
removed;  and  each  hill  is  placed  under  a  3  x  6  sash, 
and  given  good,  steady  heat,  such  as  keeps  the 
ground  and  roots  thoroughly  warm.  The  bed 
should  be  kept  at  an  average  temperature  of 
about  70  degrees,  corresponding  to  ordinary 
midsummer  weather.  The  requisite  heat  is 
afforded  by  the  heating  material  that  has  been 
placed  underneath,  aided  by  the  sun,  and  is 
retained  at  night  by  covering  with  mats  and 
shutters.  It  is  regulated  by  means  of  a  ther- 
mometer, and  ought  not  to  run  lower  than  50 
degrees  at  night,  or  higher  than  90  degrees  during 
the  day.  In  case  the  thermometer  rises  higher 
than  this,  the  beds  should  be  cooled  by  raising 

[151] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

the  sash.  The  vines  are  sometimes  grown  in 
lettuce-beds,  after  the  lettuce  has  been  removed, 
by  putting  in  fresh  heating  material,  but  it  is 
much  better,  when  practicable,  to  make  a  fresh 
bed.  The  plants,  after  being  established,  should 
be  reduced  to  three  in  a  hill,  as  it  is  no  advantage, 
but  a  drawback,  to  have  too  much  vine.  They 
require  the  same  care  under  glass  that  they  would 
receive  in  field-culture.  Especially  under  glass 
they  are  a  very  quick-growing  crop,  and  will 
require  picking  as  often  as  four  times  a  week. 
The  picking  may  ordinarily  be  commenced  about 
June  1st;  and  about  this  time  the  glass  should 
be  removed  from  the  bed.  Those  gathered  in 
the  earliest  pickings  usually  bring  about  ten  cents 
each;  of  course  as  the  season  advances  the  price 
will  decrease,  but  a  hill  started  at  the  time  stated 
should  bring  about  $4.00;  and  later  plantings 
less,  according  to  the  season  and  the  supply.  The 
early  beds  usually  continue  bearing  until  about 
July  15th  or  between  six  or  seven  weeks. 

Of  late  years  the  growing  of  this  crop  under 
sash  has  not  had  the  success  of  former  years.  The 
plants  have  been  affected  with  blight  and  insects 
that  were  not  prevalent  years  ago.  By  the 

[152] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

method  of  house-culture  cucumbers  may  be  grown 
at  any  time  during  the  season.  Where  crops 
are  to  be  grown  for  continuous  supply  during  the 
winter,  the  first  sowing  is  done  in  August.  Vines 
of  this  sowing  will  come  into  bearing  about 
October;  and  at  that  season  of  the  year  cucumbers 
will  usually  bring  from  five  to  ten  cents  each. 
The  vines  are  left  to  bear  as  long  as  they  continue 
doing  well.  Then  the  ground  is  cleared  off,  and 
another  crop  is  put  in,  say  of  lettuce.  In  the 
houses  the  vines  are  not  allowed  to  rest  on  the 
ground,  as  they  do  in  the  beds,  but  are  trained  on 
trellises  of  various  styles.  Thus  the  cucumbers 
may  be  seen  with  all  facility  during  growth,  and 
taken  when  ready  for  picking.  Where  cucumbers 
are  grown  exclusively  in  the  houses,  only  two 
crops  can  be  raised  each  winter. 

To  get  the  best  returns  from  cucumbers  in  the 
houses  the  crops  should  be  planted  so  as  to  be 
bearing  from  March  to  June.  To  do  this  the  first 
crop  should  be  set  about  the  middle  of  January 
and  this  crop  will  pick  about  the  first  of  March. 
Seed  for  this  crop  is  sown  about  the  10th  of 
December  and  after  plants  are  pricked  out  from 
the  seed-bed  and  allowed  to  remain  there  for  a 

[153] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

week  or  ten  days  they  are  set  into  six-inch  pots, 
two  plants  to  a  pot.  These  pots  will  form  a  ball 
of  dirt  by  the  time  the  house  is  ready. 

Successive  sowing  of  the  seed  should  be  made 
every  week  for  houses  to  follow  the  first  house 
after  crops  of  lettuce  have  been  pulled. 

Cucumbers  in  March  will  bring  from  12  to  15 
cents  each  wholesale,  6  to  10  cents  during  April 
and  4  to  6  cents  during  May. 

For  the  first  early  out-door  crop  the  plants 
should  be  started  under  glass  about  five  weeks 
before  they  are  wanted  for  transplanting.  Thirty- 
two  hills  are  started  under  each  3x6  sash;  and 
when  the  fourth  leaf  is  well  out  the  hills  are 
transplanted  to  the  field.  The  roots  can  be 
saved  from  disturbance  by  using  a  piece  of  stove- 
pipe eight  inches  in  diameter  and  six  high,  to  cut 
down  around  each  hill;  the  shovel  being  then 
thrust  under,  and  the  plants  thus  enclosed  and 
supported  during  removal.  Where  sods  can  be 
obtained  to  plant  in  they  are  often  used,  for  con- 
venience in  handling;  but  the  supply  is  apt  to  be 
deficient.  The  rows  should  be  six  feet  apart; 
hills  four  feet  apart  in  the  row,  and  slightly  elevated 
so  that  water  cannot  settle  on  them. 

[154] 


MARKING    FOR  LETTUCE    PLANTS    TO    BE  SET  IN  HOUSE  AT 
A  DISTANCE  OF  EIGHT  INCHES  APART 


LETTUCE  PLANTS  READY  TO  SET  INTO  THE  HOUSE 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

At  first  a  close  watch  should  be  kept  for  bugs: 
plaster  or  other  dust  will  be  effectual  in  repelling 
them.  Cultivate  as  for  any  out-door  crop.  In 
the  bearing  season  the  cucumbers  will  generally 
bring  from  one  to  two  cents  apiece;  and  the  entire 
crop  of  an  acre,  at  this  price,  will  amount  to  $400 
or  $500.  On  high-priced  land  the  entire  crop 
should  be  marketed  for  the  table,  as  growing  for 
the  pickle  factories  cannot  be  made  to  pay.  For 
pickles,  the  seed  may  be  put  in  at  any  time  from 
the  middle  of  June  to  the  20th  of  July.  They 
may  be  planted  as  close  as  four  feet  apart,  each 
way.  The  pickles  are  sold  by  the  thousand,  at 
prices  which  vary  greatly. 

Rawson's  Hot  House  is  the  best  variety  for 
forcing  and  is  also  fine  for  out-door  culture. 
The  cucumbers  are  quite  long,  of  deep  green 
colour  and  excellent  shape.  It  is  a  variety  of  White 
Spine  that  has  been  brought  to  its  present  state 
of  perfection  by  the  most  careful  selection.  The 
Early  Cluster  is  a  very  popular  early  variety, 
which  produces  cucumbers  in  clusters.  The  Green 
Prolific,  a  pickling  variety,  favoured  by  many, 
has  a  similar  habit  of  growth.  The  Boston 
Pickling  is  considered  the  leading  pickling  variety, 

[155] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

and  is  a  heavy  yielder.  The  Long  Green  is  a 
well-known  late  variety,  grown  here  to  some 
extent  for  family  use  —  more  largely  in  England. 
The  Extra  Early  Russian  is  an  odd-looking,  netted 
variety,  very  early. 

DANDELION  (Taraxacum  officinale)  is  almost 
exclusively  a  Boston  market  crop.  In  this  vicinity, 
the  demand  is  such  that  it  is  grown  by  the  acre; 
and,  although  there  is  no  demand  for  it  at  present 
in  other  large  markets,  yet  (as  the  consumption 
here  is  steadily  increasing)  it  may  be  safely  inferred 
that  its  use,  like  that  of  celery,  is  likely  to  become 
more  general.  It  in  some  respects  resembles 
endive,  and  certainly  is  one  of  the  most  healthful 
of  all  spring  greens. 

It  should  be  sown  in  drills  as  early  in  the  spring 
as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  Although  it  is  a 
very  hardy  plant,  the  seed  must  have  very  careful 
treatment  in  order  to  obtain  a  good  stand,  and 
should  be  covered  not  over  one-fourth  of  an  inch 
deep.  The  ground  should  then  be  made  firm, 
so  as  to  retain  the  moisture.  In  this  section  they 
succeed  best  on  a  rather  light,  sandy  soil.  It 
does  not  need  to  be  very  rich,  or  heavily  manured. 
For  field-culture,  the  rows  should  be  put  one  foot 

[156] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

apart.  The  dandelions,  when  they  first  come 
up,  are  so  dark-coloured  as  to  be  almost  invisible. 
A  little  lettuce  seed,  say  an  ounce  per  acre,  mixed 
and  sown  with  the  dandelion,  will  come  up  quickly 
and  show  the  rows  plainly.  When  sown  in  beds, 
to  be  forced,  the  rows  should  be  six  inches  apart. 
Roots  may  be  removed  from  the  field  to  a  hot-bed, 
and  forced,  but  in  any  case  it  takes  somewhat 
over  a  year  from  the  time  of  sowing  to  grow  the 
crop.  It  is  marketed  precisely  as  spinach  —  thir- 
teen pounds  weight  is  considered  a  bushel.  The 
price  varies  greatly.  On  the  forced  crop  from 
$1  to  $2  is  about  the  range  of  price.  On  the 
out-door  crop  $1  is  considered  high,  the  usual 
average  being  lower,  and  prices  sometimes  very 
low.  At  fifty  cents  per  bushel,  the  crop  is  a  paying 
one.  When  prices  run  high  the  proceeds  per  acre 
often  reach  as  high  as  $1,000. 

There  happens  a  failure  sometimes  in  starting 
a  crop.  The  sowing  may  be  renewed  any  time 
before  the  first  of  August,  and  provided  it  comes 
up  well,  and  escapes  scorching  by  the  sun,  the 
crop  will  be  just  as  early  as  one  sown  in  April. 

Women  and  boys  are  usually  employed  to  gather 
and  trim  the  plants,  and  remove  a  portion  of  the 

[157] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

roots  before  sending  to  market;  at  a  cost  of  about 
ten  cents  per  bushel.  The  roots  are  often  dried, 
and  in  this  condition  are  an  article  of  commerce, 
being  used  quite  extensively  for  medicinal  pur- 
poses, and  in  the  manufacture  of  beer;  and  also 
as  a  substitute  for  coffee. 

The  Improved  French  Thick-Leaved  is  a  great 
improvement  over  the  common  variety;  and  this 
is  now  grown  almost  exclusively.  It  is  a  very 
vigorous  grower,  and  affords  a  heavy  yield  of 
broad,  thick  leaves. 

EGG-PLANT  (Solarium  melongena).  The  seed 
should  be  sown  about  March  15th,  either  in  hot- 
bed or  hot-house,  the  temperature  being  kept 
between  60°  and  80°. 

After  the  plants  have  reached  a  height  of  three 
or  four  inches,  they  should  be  transplanted  to 
four  inches  apart;  and  after  they  have  made  a 
stocky  growth,  to  such  size  as  to  cover  the  ground, 
they  should  be  again  transplanted  to  eight  inches 
apart.  Then  they  may  stand,  and  be  gradually 
hardened  off  until  it  is  time  for  setting  in  the  open 
ground. 

The  ground  should  be  thoroughly  prepared, 
and  well  enriched,  as  they  are  rank  feeders;  they 

[158] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

also  require  a  good  deal  of  moisture.  They  should 
be  set  in  rows  four  feet  apart,  plants  three  feet 
apart  in  the  row.  The  New  York  Purple  is  the 
principal  variety  grown.  Black  Pekin  is  earlier 
and  hardier,  but  not  quite  so  large  or  fine-looking. 
Early  Long  Purple  is  an  oblong-fruited,  early 
variety,  of  good  quality.  The  fruit  varies  some- 
what in  colour,  from  a  very  dark  purple  to  a  lighter 
shade  streaked  with  yellow. 

ENDIVE  (Cichorium  Endivia)  is  quite  a  rarity 
here;  but  it  may  soon  become  a  popular  salad. 
In  New  York  and  Philadelphia  there  is  a  con- 
siderable demand  for  it. 

Endive  requires  a  good  supply  of  moisture, 
and  should  be  sown  where  it  will  be  least  exposed 
to  heat  and  drought.  As  it  is  used  principally 
during  the  fall  months,  the  main  sowings  are 
usually  made  in  June  or  July,  in  properly  pre- 
pared beds,  and  the  plants,  after  they  have  reached 
the  proper  height,  are  transplanted  to  rows  two 
feet  apart,  with  plants  at  intervals  of  six  inches 
in  the  row. 

They  have  to  be  blanched  by  gathering  up  the 
leaves  and  tying  them  together  at  the  top  with 
bass  matting,  and  in  a  month's  or  six  weeks'  time 

[159] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

(varying  according  to  the  season)  the  plants  will 
be  ready  for  use. 

The  Green  Curled  is  very  hardy,  and  blanches 
easily.  It  is  also  largely  used  for  garnishing. 

The  Broad-Leaved  Batavian  is  used  to  some 
extent,  principally  for  soups,  but  is  not  nearly  so 
good  as  the  curled  varieties. 

HERBS  (culinary,  sweet  or  medicinal)  constitute 
a  class  of  garden  products,  of  which  some 
mention  should  be  made  here.  It  may  be  remarked 
that  Herbs  in  general  love  mellow  and  free  soil; 
also,  that  care  should  be  taken  to  harvest  them 
properly,  and  without  exposure  to  wet.  Selecting 
a  suitable  day,  cut  them  when  lacking  a  little  of 
being  in  full  blossom,  and  dry  them  quickly  in 
the  shade  in  a  secure  place;  after  which  pack 
them  close  in  dry  boxes  or  vessels,  and  keep  them 
entirely  excluded  from  the  air.  So  treated,  they 
can  be  kept  on  hand  without  deterioration  until 
they  can  be  sold  to  advantage.  Still,  only  a  few 
are  raised,  though  the  list  is  a  long  one.  We 
select  for  description  a  few  of  the  more  prominent 
kinds. 

ANISE  (Pimpinella  Anisum)  is  a  native  of  Asia 
Minor,  Greece,  and  Egypt.  The  seeds  are  used 

[160] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

in  medicine,  also  in  the  manufacture  of  liquors, 
and  in  some  parts  of  Europe  as  a  spice  for  cooking 
purposes.  Sow  in  April  or  May  in  a  warm,  rich 
soil,  in  a  permanent  location. 

BALM  (Melissa  officinalis) .  This  plant  is  a 
native  of  Southern  Europe.  It  is  used  for  season- 
ing, and  in  the  manufacture  of  certain  perfumes. 
Sow  in  a  warm  location,  preferably  in  a  deep, 
sandy  loam;  though  the  plant  will  succeed  almost 
anywhere. 

BASIL,  SWEET  (Ocymum  Basilicum),  is  a  native 
of  India.  The  leaves  are  used  for  seasoning,  and, 
to  a  limited  extent,  for  medicinal  purposes.  Sow 
in  hot-bed  or  green  house,  if  practicable,  in  March 
or  April,  and  transplant  to  open  ground  after 
the  weather  is  settled.  A  sandy  soil  is  almost 
essential. 

CARAWAY  (Carum  Carui),  a  native  of  Europe, 
produces  the  "caraway  seed"  which  is  so  uni- 
versally used  for  flavouring.  The  plant  is  of 
the  easiest  possible  culture,  no  care  being  neces- 
sary, but  simply  to  scatter  the  seed  where  the 
growth  is  wanted. 

LAVENDER  (Lavandula  vera)  is  a  native  of 
Southern  Europe;  known  everywhere,  and  largely 

[161] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

grown  in  certain  parts  of  Europe  for  the  oil, 
which  is  distilled  from  the  flowers,  and  is  used  in 
perfumes.  The  plant  is  also  quite  ornamental 
and  is  worthy  of  cultivation  on  this  account  alone. 
Choose,  if  possible,  a  deep,  mellow  soil. 

MARJORAM,  SWEET  (Origanum  Marjorana).  This 
plant  is  probably  a  native  of  Portugal,  though 
found  in  other  countries  of  Southern  Europe.  It 
is  grown  entirely  for  seasoning  or  flavouring  pur- 
poses; the  leaves  and  the  ends  of  the  shoots  being 
the  parts  used.  Sow  early  in  the  spring  in  any 
good  soil. 

ROSEMARY  (Rosmarinus  officinalis)  is  a  native 
of  Southern  Europe.  Its  leaves,  when  dried, 
are  used  for  seasoning.  The  plants  may  be  grown 
from  seed,  but  the  easier  mode  of  propagation  is 
by  division  of  the  roots.  A  warm  location  should 
be  chosen. 

SAGE,  COMMON  (Salvia  officinalis),  is  also  a 
native  of  Southern  Europe.  The  uses  to  which 
this  herb  is  put  are  numerous,  and  too  well  known 
to  be  enumerated.  Sow  in  spring  wherever 
desired,  and  thin  to  six  or  eight  inches  apart  in 
the  row.  A  well-drained  soil  is  essential.  Give 
clean  culture. 

[162] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED   FOR  MARKET 

SUMMER  SAVORY  (Satureja  hortensis).  Native 
of  Europe.  This  is  one  of  the  most  common  of 
cultivated  herbs.  The  leaves  and  tender  leaf- 
stalks are  used  for  flavouring,  and  especially  when 
cooked  with  beans  impart  a  very  pleasant  flavour. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  in  open  ground  in  early 
spring;  or,  if  desired,  the  plants  may  be  started 
under  glass.  A  light,  rich  soil  should  be  selected. 

TANSY  (Tanacetum  vulgare)  is  cultivated  in 
gardens  and  also  found  as  a  roadside  weed ;  grow- 
ing from  two  to  four  feet  in  height,  with  smooth, 
strong-scented  foliage  of  acrid  taste.  T.  balsamita 
is  smaller,  sweet-scented,  with  pale  yellow  flowers. 

THYME  (Thymus  vulgaris)  is  a  native  of  South- 
ern Europe.  The  leaves  and  young  shoots  are 
used  for  seasoning.  The  plants  may  be  propa- 
gated either  from  seeds  or  cuttings,  the  former 
being  preferable.  Sow  in  early  spring,  and  in 
midsummer  transplant  to  five  or  six  inches  apart 
in  the  row  or  border. 

HORSERADISH  (Cochlearia  Armoracia)  is  raised 
from  sets  saved  during  preparation  for  market 
of  the  previous  crop.  These  are  put  into  the 
ground  as  early  as  the  soil  can  be  prepared. 
Plough  four  furrows  together,  and  thus  form  a 

[163] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

ridge;  along  the  middle  of  this  ridge  the  sets  are 
planted  by  hand,  eighteen  inches  apart,  and 
covered  two  inches  deep.  A  series  of  ridges  thus 
formed  will  bring  the  rows  about  three  and  one- 
half  feet  apart.  A  row  of  spinach  is  sown  on 
one  side  of  this  ridge,  and  a  row  of  beets  on  the 
other  side,  leaving  the  centre  occupied  by  the 
horseradish,  which  is  very  slow  in  starting,  so 
that  the  others  will  not  interfere  with  it  at  all. 
The  spinach  is  cut  off  early;  and  the  beets,  after 
they  have  made  a  proper  growth,  are  thinned  for 
greens,  while  those  that  are  left  to  grow  are  soon 
gathered  and  bunched  for  early  marketing.  By 
this  time  the  horseradish  will  have  reached  a 
height  of  five  or  six  inches,  and  can  now  be  hoed 
and  cultivated. 

Before  being  marketed  for  grating,  it  is  washed 
by  putting  it  in  tubs  of  water  and  stirring  and 
brushing  with  a  broom.  It  is  then  usually  packed 
in  barrels. 

For  bunching,  more  pains  must  be  taken,  and 
the  washing  must  be  a  more  thorough  one;  after 
which  it  is  tied  up  in  bundles  of  five  or  six  pounds 
each,  and  in  this  way  brings  a  little  extra  price. 
By  the  barrel  it  usually  brings  from  five  to  six 

[164] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

cents  per  pound;  each  barrelful  weighing  about 
one  hundred  pounds. 

At  the  foregoing  price,  an  acre  of  horseradish, 
if  it  succeeded  well,  would  bring  a  return  of  about 
$350.  Adding  for  the  spinach  and  beets,  the 
total  product  should  amount  to  about  $600  per 
acre  for  the  year. 

KOHL  RABI  (Brassica  Caulo-rapa)  in  some 
respects  resembles  the  turnip,  but  is  actually  a  vari- 
ety of  the  cabbage;  the  bulb  is  really  an  enlarged 
stem,  of  a  fleshy,  pulpy  consistency.  Its  shape 
is  that  of  an  almost  regular  ball ;  in  some  varieties 
about  as  large  as  an  average-sized  orange,  while 
in  others  it  is  nearly  as  large  as  a  man's  head. 
In  flavour  it  closely  resembles  the  turnip,  and 
partly  also  the  cabbage,  blending  the  two.  It  is 
highly  appreciated  in  New  York,  especially 
amongst  the  Germans.  It  is  in  its  best  condition 
for  use  before  it  becomes  fully  grown,  even  while 
quite  small;  and  is  prepared  for  the  table  in  the 
same  manner  as  turnips.  The  seed-bed  should 
be  made  in  May  or  June.  Transplant  to  rows 
three  feet  apart,  fifteen  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

The  crop  is  fitted  for  market  by  bunching  when 
green  and  tender;  three  bulbs  being  put  in  a  bunch. 

[165] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

The  price  obtained  varies  from  seventy-five  cents 
to  one  dollar  per  dozen  bunches.  Any  that  are 
left  unsold  may  be  used  for  stock  feeding.  They 
are  often  grown  expressly  for  that  object.  They 
may  be  kept  as  easily  as  turnips,  and  the  method 
of  storing  is  the  same.  The  Early  White  Vienna 
is  the  leading  variety.  It  is  in  the  best  condition 
for  the  table  when  as  large  as  an  ordinary  cocoanut. 
It  is  then  tender  and  of  fine  flavour,  but  later  on 
becomes  tough,  stringy  and  unpalatable.  Early 
Purple  Vienna  closely  resembles  the  preceding, 
except  that  the  colour  of  the  bulb  is  deep  purple 
instead  of  greenish  white.  There  is  but  little 
choice  between  the  two.  The  Giant  White  is 
larger  and  coarser,  and  the  Goliath  is  truly  a 
mammoth  kind;  these  are  raised  only  for  stock. 
LEEK  (Allium  Porrum)  is  a  hardy  biennial 
plant,  producing  an  oblong  bulb,  or  stalk,  which 
has  the  flavour  of  an  onion,  and  is  used  principally 
for  flavouring  soups  and  stews.  It  is  useless  to 
attempt  its  cultivation  on  light,  poor  land.  Sow 
the  seed  early  in  May,  in  a  well-prepared  bed, 
and  transplant  in  July  to  rows  three  feet  apart, 
putting  two  plants  to  each  foot  of  row,  on  land 
from  which  a  crop  of  cabbage  or  lettuce  has  been 

[166] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

removed.  Set  them  rather  deep,  and  in  cultivating 
draw  up  the  earth,  so  as  to  bleach  them  slightly 
and  keep  them  tender. 

The  leek  is  used  principally  during  the  winter 
months,  and  may  be  stored  in  trenches,  in  the 
same  manner  as  celery;  or  it  may  be  placed  in  a 
cool  cellar,  with  the  roots  resting  on  a  layer  of 
soil.  In  this  way,  if  standing  thickly  together, 
they  will  take  root  slightly,  and  keep  very  fresh 
and  green  until  late  the  following  spring. 

The  Musselburgh  is  the  principal  market  variety, 
although  the  London  Flag  closely  resembles  it 
and  is  just  as  good.  The  Giant  Carentan  is  a 
newer  sort,  large  and  of  good  quality,  and  will, 
no  doubt,  prove  quite  popular. 

LETTUCE  (Lactuca  sativa).  This  is  one  of  the 
leading  crops,  and  is  perhaps  the  most  profitable 
one  raised  by  market  gardeners.  It  is  a  vegetable 
that  is  continuously  grown  throughout  the  year, 
being  produced  under  glass  in  hot-houses,  or 
hot-beds,  in  winter,  and  in  the  open  ground  in 
the  summer. 

For  forcing  in  hot-houses,  seed  is  sown  for  plants 
of  the  first  setting  about  the  tenth  of  August,  these 
are  afterward  transplanted  into  the  houses.  The 

[167] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

resulting  crop  is  ready  for  marketing  about  the 
last  of  October.  Sowings  are  made  about  one 
week  apart,  from  time  to  time,  throughout  the 
season,  so  as  to  give  a  continuous  supply  of  plants. 
Lettuce  seed  is  very  small,  and  when  sown  under 
glass  requires  but  little  covering.  One  ounce 
of  good  seed  is  sufficient  for  four  sashes  of  the 
ordinary  size,  three  feet  by  six. 

The  culture  of  lettuce  as  an  out-door  crop  is 
comparatively  easy;  but  when  grown  under  glass 
it  is  a  much  more  difficult  crop  to  raise,  as  through 
the  winter  season,  when  the  days  are  short  and 
there  is  much  cloudy  weather,  the  crop  is  likely 
to  be  affected  with  mildew  and  the  green  fly. 

This  green  fly  or  louse  is  a  most  difficult  insect 
to  manage,  especially  when  the  plants  have  gained 
a  considerable  size.  A  good  method  to  keep 
rid  of  them  is  to  fumigate  the  houses  thoroughly 
with  the  smoke  of  tobacco  stems.  This  should 
be  done  three  nights  in  succession.  In  order  to 
make  sure  of  accomplishing  the  work,  in  a  week 
or  ten  days  after  the  third  smoking  the  operation 
should  be  repeated ;  and  by  this  process,  if  carefully 
and  thoroughly  carried  out  at  the  proper  times, 
a  crop  already  attacked  may  be  saved;  but  it 

[168] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

requires  thorough  treatment.  The  tobacco  stems 
should  be  moistened  before  being  used,  or  the 
heat  will  be  too  much  for  the  lettuce.  Some  skill 
and  discretion  are  necessary  to  determine  just 
how  much  to  moisten  them,  and  how  to  do  the 
smoking  in  the  proper  manner.  On  these  points 
a  practical  experience  is  the  very  best  possible 
teacher,  although  somewhat  costly  at  times.  After 
the  first  of  February  there  is  but  very  little  trouble 
with  this  insect.* 

After  the  plants  have  been  treated  in  this  manner 
they  will  be  ready  for  transplanting  into  beds  or 
wherever  required;  while,  if  this  treatment  should 
not  be  given  them,  it  is  quite  likely  they  might 
be  destroyed.  Occasionally,  it  is  true,  these 
insects  do  not  trouble  a  crop  at  all ;  but  it  is  much 
the  best  policy  to  be  on  the  safe  side  and  use  every 
precaution. 

Through  damp  and  cloudy  weather  the  plants 
are  liable  to  mildew,  both  in  the  houses  and  in 
frames.  Although  not  as  troublesome  as  insects, 
mildew  often  destroys  a  crop.  This  can  be 
avoided  by  keeping  up  as  high  a  temperature  as 
possible,  while  still  giving  plenty  of  air. 

*  Consult  Chapter  Seven. 

[169] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

In  transplanting  lettuce,  the  plants  should  at 
first  be  put  four  inches  apart,  and  when  they  have 
covered  the  ground  should  be  moved  to  eight 
inches  apart  in  the  houses. 

In  hot-beds,  fifty  plants  are  put  under  each 
3x6  sash,  which  makes  the  distances  separating 
the  plants  about  seven  and  a  half  inches  each  way. 

The  price  for  lettuce,  through  the  winter, 
averages  about  four  cents  per  single  head,  or 
fifty  cents  per  dozen.  Three  crops  can  be  grown 
in  the  hot-houses  during  the  winter.  Three  can 
be  taken  from  the  hot-beds  also,  if  the  plants  are 
in  the  houses  and  grown  there  until  the  last 
transplanting. 

The  heat  for  hot-beds,  as  has  before  been  said, 
is  mostly  horse  manure  fresh  from  the  stable; 
and  it  takes  one  cord  of  this  for  every  eight  sash 
for  the  early  winter  beds;  but  for  those  started 
after  the  fifteenth  of  February  one  cord  will  answer 
for  twelve  sash.  The  expense  of  this,  all  put  into 
the  bed  and  ready  for  use,  is  nearly  one  dollar 
per  sash,  reckoning  the  putting  down  of  bed, 
putting  on  sash,  mats,  and  shutters,  and  bed  set 
out  to  lettuce;  so  that  the  cost  of  raising  lettuce 
in  the  winter  with  four  dozen  under  each  sash  is 

[170] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

twenty-five  cents  per  dozen  to  start  with;  add 
cost  of  plants,  twelve  cents  more;  making  the 
cost  of  raising  lettuce  in  the  winter  season  fifty 
cents  per  dozen,  without  reckoning  in  the  carrying 
to  market. 

The  second  crop  can  be  grown  much  cheaper 
than  the  first,  say  at  forty  cents  per  dozen ;  because 
the  bed  is  all  ready.  It  will  require  only  two- 
thirds  as  much  manure;  and  not  over  two-thirds 
as  much  time  will  be  consumed  in  taking  care 
of  the  second  crop  as  of  the  first.  Then,  too, 
the  spent  manure  that  is  taken  out  in  renewing 
the  beds  is  worth  something,  perhaps  all  of  half- 
price,  or  we  may  say  twenty-five  cents  per  sash 
for  use  elsewhere.  But,  allowing  for  all  this,  I 
believe  there  is  no  profit  from  growing  lettuce  in 
hot-beds  at  fifty  cents  per  dozen.  In  houses  it 
can  be  growrn  for  less  than  in  beds,  and  its  culti- 
vation in  houses  is  thought  to  pay  fairly  well. 

The  temperature  in  the  houses  should  be  kept 
between  40°  and  45°  in  the  night-time,  and 
from  60°  to  70°  during  the  day.  That  of  the 
hot-beds  also  should  be  regulated  in  a  similar 
manner. 

In  this  vicinity  Rawson's  Hot-House  and  Hit- 
[171] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

tenger's  Belmont  have  been  almost  exclusively  the 
varieties  raised  for  forcing;  but  the  Black-seeded 
Tennisball  is  preferred  for  out-door  culture. 

Rawson's  New  Hot-house  is  nearly  double  the 
size  of  the  old  White-seeded  Tennisball,  and 
exhibits  qualities  of  most  superior  excellence. 
This  kind  is  altogether  the  best  yet  introduced 
for  growing  in  greenhouses  and  hot-beds;  being 
the  largest  lettuce  grown,  and  being  also  a  sure 
header,  and  not  liable  to  rot  in  the  heart.  These 
important  traits  make  it  an  extremely  desirable 
sort,  and  profitable  in  cultivation. 

As  we  have  remarked,  the  first  sowing  of  seed 
for  plants  to  be  forced  is  made  about  the  tenth  of 
August.  Black-seeded  Tennisball  is  first  sown 
in  February,  in  the  houses;  and  then  transplanted 
to  hot-beds.  After  being  hardened  off,  it  is  set 
in  the  open  ground  about  the  last  of  April  or  the 
first  of  May,  and  will  be  fit  for  cutting  about  the 
first  of  June.  The  price  for  this  lettuce  is  about 
the  same  as  that  grown  in  the  houses.  This  is 
set,  in  the  field,  about  one  foot  apart;  or  it  may 
be  set  among  cabbages;  or  in  the  onion  field, 
where  space  has  been  left  for  a  later  growth  of 
celery.  As  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked 

[172] 


PUTTING  IN  BOTTOM  HEAT  FOR  A  SECOND  CROP  OF  LETTUCE 


TAKING    UP    PRICKERS    OF    LETTUCE    FROM    SEED    BEDS; 
PLANTS  THREE  WEEKS    OLD  FROM    SOWING 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

in  the  spring,  a  sowing  of  the  black-seeded  variety 
is  made  in  the  open  ground ;  the  rows  being  spaced 
one  foot  apart,  and  every  other  row  being  left 
out  so  that  celery  may  be  set  in  later.  When  the 
plants  are  large  enough,  they  are  thinned  so  as 
to  stand  one  foot  apart  in  the  row. 

Sowings  are  made  in  this  way  every  ten  days 
until  about  the  twentieth  of  August.  These  sow- 
ings, taken  with  those  made  under  glass,  as 
described,  give  continuously  maturing  crops  of 
lettuce  the  year  round. 

Boston  Curled  is  a  very  early  curled  sort,  used 
extensively  for  first  early  out-door  crops. 

Early  Curled  Simpson  is  another  excellent 
curled  variety,  pale  green  in  colour.  It  does 
not  form  very  compact  heads.  Hanson  is  one 
of  the  leading  "head"  lettuces  for  house,  garden 
and  other  out-door  culture. 

The  name  "Cos"  applied  to  lettuce  denotes 
a  class  of  plants  distinguished  by  the  formation 
of  tall,  upright-growing  leaves  without  disposition 
to  head  —  a  defect  remedied  by  the  art  of  the 
grower,  who  gathers  these  leaves  together  and 
binds  them  into  a  compact  bunch  or  head;  when 
they  blanch  and  grow  tender,  thus  becoming  fit 

[173] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

in  their  appearance  and  condition  for  market 
and  for  the  table. 

White  Paris  Cos  is  the  best  of  the  Cos  varieties. 
It  is  a  quick  grower,  and  has  been  rapidly  gaining 
in  popularity  for  the  past  few  years.  The  Bath 
Cos  is  crisp  and  fine -flavoured,  and  extremely 
large. 

MARTYNIA  (Martynia  proboscidea) .  The  young 
seed-pods  of  this  plant  are  used  to  some  extent  for 
pickling.  It  is  of  very  easy  culture,  and  will 
succeed  in  almost  any  garden  soil. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  hot-bed  —  the 
plants  being  afterward  transplanted  —  or  may 
be  sown  in  April  in  the  open  ground,  and  trans- 
planted later.  They  should  be  spaced  three  feet 
apart  each  way,  as  the  plants  are  very  spreading 
in  habit. 

On  good  soil  the  pods  are  produced  in  abun- 
dance, and  should  be  ready  for  use  in  July 
or  August. 

MUSHROOMS  (Agaricus  campestris).  This  is 
a  very  peculiar  crop,  and  one  that  is  found  in 
many  respects  very  difficult  to  grow.  The  best 
plan  is  as  follows:  Take  fresh  horse  manure  and 
shake  out  all  the  straw  and  coarse  part,  using 

[174] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED   FOR  MARKET 

nothing  but  the  fine  portion  of  it.  Mix  this  with 
fresh  loam,  one  part  loam  to  two  parts  manure, 
arid  turn  the  pile  every  day  to  keep  it  from  burning, 
until  the  fiery  heat  is  nearly  all  out  of  it.  Con- 
struct the  bed  about  four  feet  wide  and  as  long 
as  required,  allowing  the  prepared  material  to 
stand  as  it  is.  Let  it  remain  in  this  condition, 
until  the  temperature  has  become  reduced  to  90°; 
then  make  holes  two  or  three  inches  deep,  at  a 
distance  of  twelve  inches  each  way,  into  which 
put  the  spawn  in  pieces  about  as  large  as  a  hen's 
egg.  Cover  the  spawn  and  let  it  remain  undis- 
turbed for  eight  or  ten  days ;  then  cover  the  whole 
bed  with  fine  loam,  to  the  depth  of  two  inches, 
making  it  firm  with  the  back  of  a  shovel  or  spade. 
Apply  water  only  when  the  soil  is  very  dry. 

The  bed  must  be  in  a  covered  situation,  and  in  a 
dark  place,  with  the  temperature  at  about  50°, 
and  the  prepared  soil  must  be  kept  dry  from  the 
commencement.  If  everything  favours,  the  mush- 
rooms will  appear  in  six  or  eight  weeks,  and  will 
continue  over  two  months.  By  careful  appli- 
cations of  water  at  the  temperature  of  about  70° 
the  season  may  be  prolonged. 

MUSKMELON  (Cucumis  Melo) .     The  muskmelon 
[175] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET   GARDENING 

will  succeed  best  in  soil  naturally  strong  and  rich, 
and  on  a  recently  turned  sod.  The  best  way  is 
to  turn  the  land  over  at  the  proper  time  and  apply 
about  five  cords  of  manure  broadcast,  using  a 
spreader  where  one  can  be  had.  After  harrowing 
thoroughly  the  ground  should  be  marked  off  for 
hills,  six  feet  apart  each  way.  A  shovelful  of  fine 
manure  should  be  applied  in  the  hills,  which  should 
be  slightly  raised,  so  that  water  will  not  stand 
around  the  plants.  Seven  or  eight  seeds  should 
be  put  in  a  hill  so  as  to  make  allowance  for  insects. 
The  planting  may  be  done  about  May  15th. 

After  the  plants  have  got  their  fourth  leaf  well 
out,  and  have  obtained  a  good  start,  they  should 
be  thinned  to  three  in  a  hill.  Cultivate  both  ways 
thoroughly,  the  same  as  a  crop  of  squash  or  other 
vines  would  be  treated.  They  should  never  be 
hoed  or  worked  around  when  the  leaves  are  wet 
with  rain  or  dew. 

In  picking  for  market,  it  is  an  easy  matter  to 
tell  when  the  fruit  is  fit  to  be  taken,  as  the  under 
side  of  the  melon  will  be  lightly  streaked  with 
yellow.  If  picked  then  and  exposed  to  the  sun 
for  a  couple  of  days,  they  will  be  ready  for  the 
table  of  the  consumer. 

[176] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

They  are  rather  an  uncertain  crop,  and  are 
cultivated  but  very  little  by  market  gardeners  in 
this  section. 

Cantaloupe  is  our  name  for  round  kinds.  These 
are  usually  started  about  May  1st,  under  glass, 
to  be  transplanted,  about  June  10th,  to  the  open 
field.  The  bed  is  usually  placed  near  the  centre 
of  the  field  where  they  are  to  be  grown,  and  the 
seed  is  started  on  sods  9  inches  by  9  inches,  so 
that  thirty-two  hills  are  started  under  each  3x6 
sash. 

The  Arlington  Nutmeg  is  the  leading  first 
early  variety,  and  is  followed  by  the  Hackensack, 
which  is  one  of  the  most  popular  sorts  for  the 
main  crop.  The  latter  is  of  good  size  and  of 
excellent  quality. 

The  Surprise  is  a  variety  of  considerable  merit 
for  the  home  garden,  but  it  is  not  large  enough 
for  market. 

Montreal  Market  is  the  largest  melon  of  its 
class  in  cultivation,  and  derives,  its  name  from 
being  originated  and  largely  grown  in  the  vicinity 
of  Montreal.  This  is  started  under  glass,  earlier 
than  the  others,  and  is  grown  almost  invariably 
in  the  beds  until  the  time  of  picking.  It  is  a  very 

[177] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

thick-meated,  green-fleshed  sort,  and  is  considered 
the  best  sort,  for  table  use,  in  existence.  Good 
specimens  of  its  fruit,  well  grown  and  ripened, 
often  bring  as  high  as  $1  each,  at  wholesale.  As 
they  produce  more  vines  than  the  other  varieties 
they  must  be  given  more  room.  Where  one  hill 
is  planted  under  a  sash  the  beds  should  be  set  so 
that  the  hills  will  be  twelve  feet  apart  the  other 
way.  One  plant  per  hill,  at  this  distance,  is  suf- 
ficient. In  picking  for  market,  it  has  to  be  noted 
that  the  fruit  is  never  ripe  until  the  stem  will 
part  readily  from  it. 

MUSTARD  (Sinapis  alba  and  nigra).  Used  to 
some  extent  for  greens,  early  in  the  spring,  but 
more  especially  as  a  salad.  It  may  be  sown  in 
the  open  ground  (almost  any  time  after  the  soil 
can  be  properly  prepared),  in  rows  twelve  inches 
apart :  also  may  be  forced  in  the  hot-bed,  or  hot- 
house, and  thus  may  be  had  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year;  but  the  demand  is  small. 

White  Mustard  is  the  variety  best  liked  as  a 
salad;  and  the  seed,  which  is  of  a  very  bright 
yellow  colour,  affords,  when  ground,  the  mustard 
which  we  use  on  our  tables.  Black-seeded  is 
much  like  the  preceding,  except  that  the  seed 

[178] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

is  very  dark  in  colour  and  the  leaves  are  a  trifle 
more  pungent.  It  is  used  both  as  a  salad  and  for 
manufacturing  into  table  mustard. 

OKRA  (Hibiscus  esculentus)  is  grown  for  its 
seed  pods,  which,  when  young  and  tender,  are  used 
in  soups  and  stews;  but  sales  in  the  Boston 
market  are  very  light.  It  is  of  very  easy  culture, 
as  it  succeeds  on  almost  any  soil,  and  after  the 
plants  are  once  up  and  growing  is  quite  hardy. 
But  the  seeds  should  not  be  put  in  till  the  weather 
is  warm  and  fairly  settled  —  say  about  the  10th 
of  May  —  as  they  are  liable  to  rot  if  placed  in 
the  soil  when  it  is  cold  and  soggy.  In  this  one 
respect  they  are  very  tender,  and  are  found  difficult 
to  start  except  under  favourable  conditions.  There 
are  but  two  varieties  on  the  list;  these  are  the  Tall 
and  Dwarf  kinds. 

In  the  culture  of  either,  the  planting  should 
be  in  drills,  and  the  covering  two  inches  deep. 
If  the  Dwarf  variety  is  planted  at  eighteen  inches 
between  the  drills,  it  will  have  space  enough; 
but  in  cultivating  the  larger  variety,  three  or  three 
and  a  half  feet  will  be  none  too  much  to  leave 
between  the  rows.  This  plant  is  one  which 
requires  nearly  the  whole  season  to  complete  its 

[179] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

growth;  but,  if  desired,  a  few  seeds  may  be  started 
in  the  hot-bed  or  hot-house  about  four  weeks 
before  they  are  wanted  for  setting  out  of  doors ;  and 
in  this  way  they  may  be  hurried  forward. 

When  used  in  soups,  okra  imparts  a  viscous 
or  gummy  consistency,  and  a  peculiar  flavour 
which,  to  most  people,  is  very  agreeable. 


L180] 


CHAPTER    VI 

VEGETABLES,    ETC.  CONTINUED 

1  HE  Onion  (Allium  Cepa),  as  a  paying  field  crop 
ranks  next  to  cabbage.  For  the  early  supply, 
grown  for  bunching,  onion  sets  are  used.  These 
should  be  planted  in  rich  soil,  using  from  six  to 
ten  bushels  per  acre,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
sets.  Seed  is  also  sown  at  the  same  time  for  plants 
to  follow,  and  maintain  the  supply.  Six  pounds 
of  seed  are  required  for  an  acre.  For  raising 
sets,  twenty-five  pounds  of  seed  are  required, 
which  should  be  grown  on  rather  poor  land, 
so  that  they  may  not  run  to  tops  or  grow  too  large. 
The  white  sets  are  put  out  in  the  spring  as  soon 
as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  three  inches  apart, 
in  rows  one  foot  apart,  reserving  every  sixth  row 
for  celery.  This  work  is  usually  done  by  boys, 
and  the  sets  are  covered  in  with  a  rake  by  a  man 
who  follows,  walking  in  the  vacant  row.  Only 
two  weedings  will  be  required;  but  when  seed 

[181] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

is  sown  three  are  necessary,  and  the  plants  ait 
thinned  to  three  inches. 

The  sets  will  be  large  enough  for  pulling  abou 
the  middle  of  June.  They  are  bunched  for  markel, 
five  in  a  bunch  at  first,  and  four  when  they  are 
larger.  The  pulling  continues  through  July.  The 
price  obtained  for  those  first  marketed  is  about 
sixty  cents  per  dozen  bunches,  and  the  average 
of  the  whole  crop  may  be  from  thirty-five  to  forty 
cents.  The  proceeds  of  an  acre  should  be  from 
$600  to  $800,  and  $300  should  cover  the  cost  of 
growing. 

Yellow  sets  do  not  differ  as  to  culture  from  the 
white,  but  are  not  used  for  bunching.  Soon  after 
the  tops  drop  over  (about  July  1st),  the  onions 
are  pulled  up  and  left  to  dry  on  the  ground. 
When  they  are  thoroughly  dry  the  tops  are  cut 
off,  and  the  onions  are  boxed  or  barrelled  for  sale. 
The  average  yield  (leaving  out  the  sixth  row  for 
celery)  is  about  500  bushels  per  acre,  and  they  will 
bring  a  price  between  75  cents  and  $1.50  per 
bushel.  In  raising  late  crops  for  storing,  seed 
is  used  exclusively,  and  the  plants  are  thinned 
to  one  inch  instead  of  three.  These  crops  are 
allowed  to  dry  thoroughly  in  the  ground  before 

[182] 


DIGGING  PARSNIPS  FROM  PIT  TO  SEND  TO  WASH-SHED 
FOR  MARKET 


PARSNIPS  IN  TUBS  READY  TO  WASH 


VEGETABLES  RAISED   FOR  MARKET 

harvesting.  They  should  be  stored  in  bins  or 
boxes  where  a  steady,  cool  temperature  can  be 
kept  up.  For  fall  onions  the  price  obtained  is 
usually  about  $2.50  per  barrel. 

Of  late  years  many  market  gardeners  have  also 
grown  onions  from  prickers,  the  Prizetaker  and 
Danvers  varieties  being  sowed,  preferably  the 
former,  on  account  of  large  size.  Seed  is  sown 
in  beds  about  the  20th  of  February,  fairly  thick,  and 
are  set  out  into  the  field  about  the  middle  of  April 
or  the  first  of  May.  The  yield  per  acre  is  much 
greater  than  with  the  sets,  but  they  do  not  mature 
so  early. 

Until  modern  inventions  of  the  labour-saving 
sort  came  forward,  very  largely  superseding  the 
old  methods  of  hand-cultivation,  the  sowing  and 
growing  of  this  valuable  and  remunerative  crop 
were  an  extremely  tedious  and  laborious  business. 
Now,  after  the  preparation  of  the  beds  has  been 
properly  accomplished,  a  smart  boy  of  sixteen 
will  seed  more  ground  in  a  day,  and  do  it  better, 
than  twenty  men  could  at  the  time  when  seed  drills 
were  unknown;  and  the  labour  of  the  after-culture 
during  the  growth  of  the  plants  has  been  almost 
equally  lightened  by  modern  devices. 

[183] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

The  ground  must  be  such  as  has  been  well 
enriched  with  long  and  liberal  manuring;  and 
recent  addition  of  green  manures  must  not  be 
relied  upon  for  affording  the  close-growing  plants 
their  proper  nutrition.  The  tilth  should  be  as 
perfect  as  it  can  be  made,  and  the  plants  must 
have  the  cleanest  possible  culture. 

The  Yellow  Danvers  and  the  White  Portugal, 
or  Silver  Skin,  are  the  kinds  grown  almost  exclu- 
sively for  this  market,  from  sets  and  from  seeds. 
In  some  localities  where  red  onions  are  in  favour, 
the  Red  Wether sfield  is  highly  esteemed.  It  is 
a  very  productive,  large  sort. 

PARSLEY  (Carum  Petroselinum)  is  kept  at  all 
seasons  in  continuous  growth,  either  under  glass 
or  in  the  open  ground.  Seed  is  sown  out-of-doors 
as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  in  drills  about 
one  foot  apart.  The  plants  for  forcing  are  kept  cut 
down  during  the  summer,  and  in  the  fall  are  placed 
under  glass,  three  inches  apart,  in  rows  about 
six  inches  apart.  The  pickings  may  be  repeated 
often  during  the  season,  after  which  the  roots  are 
worthless. 

The  Fine  Curled  is  the  variety  chiefly  grown, 
and  is  in  fact  the  most  desirable.  The  Moss 

[184] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

Curled,  though  similar,  is  a  little  more  crimped. 
Plain  Parsley  is  the  smooth-leaved  sort,  used 
mainly  for  flavouring.  It  is  hardier,  and  its 
leaves  are  larger  and  of  a  deeper  green  than  those 
of  the  other  sorts  named.  The  average  returns, 
per  sash  3x6,  from  forced  parsley  would  be 
from  $3.00  to  $4.00. 

PARSNIPS  (Pastinaca  saliva)  require  careful 
attention  to  secure  proper  germination.  Thorough 
preparation  of  soil  and  early  sowing  will  promote 
that  result.  Sow  in  rows  twelve  inches  apart. 

It  is  well  to  sow  some  of  the  seed  in  beds  about 
five  feet  wide,  as  these  parsnips  will  be  ready 
for  bunching  in  August  and  will  bring  a  fair 
price. 

Make  the  covering  not  over  half  an  inch  deep, 
and  thin  to  four  inches  apart.  Any  convenient  part 
of  the  crop  may  be  left  to  stand  in  the  ground  over 
winter  (as  they  are  improved  by  frost),  and  may 
be  dug  for  marketing  any  time  after  the  frost  is 
out.  Parsnips  will  do  better  (and  especially  in 
case  they  are  to  remain  in  the  ground  over  winter) 
if  sown  on  ridges  formed  by  lapping  two  furrows 
together,  each  ridge  planted  with  two  rows.  The 
ridges  should  be  thirty  inches  apart. 

[185] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

Of  the  varieties  the  Hollow  Crown  is  by  far 
the  best.  Not  only  is  it  easier  to  grow  but  it  has 
a  much  readier  sale  in  the  market. 

Arlington  Long  Smooth  is  still  grown  extensively, 
but  it  requires  a  deep  loam,  and  is  very  hard  to  dig. 

Guernsey  is  another  sort,  but  is  not  so  popular 
as  Hollow  Crown. 

PEAS  (Pisum  sativum),  which  have  been  in 
past  years  highly  profitable,  now  yield  fluctuating 
and  uncertain  returns,  owing  to  the  shipments  of 
Southern  growers.  Where  cabbage  is  to  follow, 
the  early  upright-growing  sorts  are  usually  sown 
in  three-and-a-half  foot  rows.  Three  feet  apart 
does  well  for  American  Wonder.  When  squashes 
are  to  follow,  two  double  rows  are  put  in  three  and 
a  half  feet  apart,  and  then  a  space  is  reserved  about 
five  feet  wide,  for  planting  squashes  before  the 
peas  are  ready  to  be  removed. 

The  pea  comes  earliest  to  maturity  in  light, 
rich  soil;  but  for  the  general  crop,  a  deep  loam, 
or  a  soil  strongly  inclining  to  clay,  is  the  best. 
Plant  as  early  as  the  weather  will  permit,  in  well- 
prepared  ground;  cover  one  inch  deep  and  the 
seeds  will  come  earlier  than  if  deeper.  Later 
sowings  may  be  covered  from  two  to  six  inches 

[186] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

deep;  the  deep  planting  tends  to  prevent  mildew, 
and  to  prolong  the  season. 

When  a  sufficient  quantity  of  manure  is  available 
it  is  always  best  to  manure  the  peas  broadcast 
before  sowing.  When  manure  is  applied  in  this 
way,  the  peas  will  get  as  much  of  it  as  they  need, 
and  the  balance  will  remain  for  the  later  crop. 
When  it  is  intended  to  cultivate  in  this  manner, 
the  early  varieties  are  always  sown,  as  the  late 
ones  would  not  get  off  soon  enough.  For  the 
early  crops  mild  manure  such  as  leaf  mould  will 
do  well,  but  leaves  not  much  for  the  following 
crop;  and  if  the  soil  is  very  poor,  a  stronger  manure 
will  be  needed  to  grow  the  peas. 

Fresh  manures  and  wet,  mucky  soils  are  to  be 
avoided,  as  they  cause  the  vines  to  grow  rank  and 
tall:  the  plants  make  a  great  growth  in  vines, 
but  fail  to  develop  and  mature  the  pods. 

Sowing  should  be  begun  as  soon  as  the  ground  is 
fit  to  work,  and  continued  at  intervals  of  a  week  or 
ten  days  until  the  first  of  May.  For  a  continuous 
supply  during  the  season,  make  plantings  until  the 
last  of  June ;  then  sowings  should  be  discontinued 
until  the  middle  of  August,  when  an  extra  early 
sort  will  sometimes  produce  a  good  crop. 

[187] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

All  the  wrinkled  sorts  are  superior  to  smooth 
sorts  in  every  respect  except  earliness;  they  are 
more  delicate  in  flavour,  richer  in  saccharine 
matter,  and  remain  longer  in  season.  The  market 
gardener,  however,  is  not  disposed  to  keep  the 
vines  long  in  bearing,  as  he  usually  wants  the  land 
cleared  for  other  use.  The  earliest  and  the  quick- 
est-growing sorts  are  the  best  in  that  case. 

Amongst  all  the  numerous  varieties  offered, 
the  very  earliest  is  undoubtedly  Rawson's  Clipper. 
When  first  brought  forward,  in  the  spring  of  1886, 
it  had  proved  on  our  trial  grounds  to  be  the  earliest 
in  cultivation.  It  has  now  been  in  the  hands  of 
one  of  our  most  experienced  growers  for  over 
twenty  years,  and  after  careful  tests  has  proved 
earlier  by  several  days  than  any  other. 

It  is  very  uniform  in  growth  and  distinct  in 
habit,  about  thirty  inches  in  height,  profusely 
covered  with  well-filled  pods.  It  is  one  of  the 
sweetest  and  best-flavoured  of  the  smooth  varieties. 
The  entire  crop  can  be  gathered  in  two  pickings; 
it  is  a  very  productive  and  valuable  market 
variety. 

Among  the  early  wrinkled  varieties  Gradus, 
Thomas  Laxton  and  Sutton's  Excelsior  have 

[188] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

taken  the  place  of  the  old  American  Wonder  and 
Nott's  Excelsior. 

Gradus  and  Thomas  Laxton  are  varieties  similar 
in  habit,  with  enormous  pods,  fairly  well  filled  and 
of  tenderest  flavour.  They  are  great  yielders  and 
invaluable  for  the  market  gardener. 

Button's  Excelsior  is  an  English  variety  of 
superior  merit.  Very  early,  bearing  large-sized 
pods  abundantly  on  rather  dwarf  vines. 

For  a  medium  early  crop  a  good  strain  of  the 
old  McLean's  Advancer  is  desirable. 

Of  the  late  sorts,  Stratagem  and  Telephone 
have  the  call.  Many  of  the  market  gardeners 
grow  an  early  wrinkled  sort,  as  Excelsior,  in  suc- 
cession rather  than  the  taller-vined  sorts,  as 
Stratagem  and  Telephone,  on  account  of  saving 
of  labour  in  bushing  and  freedom  from  mildew 
during  the  dull  days  of  August,  to  which  the  tall 
sorts  are  subject. 

All  the  late  kinds  need  wider  planting  than  the 
early  dwarf  sorts  —  about  four  feet  between  rows 
is  not  too  much.  The  number  of  bushels  of  pods 
raised  from  a  bushel  of  seed  peas  varies  from  one 
hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty ;  the  price  (though 
depressed  and  -irregular  as  a  consequence  of 

[189] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
shipments  from  the  South  disturbing  the  market, 
especially  as  regards  the  early  crop)  will  average 
about  one  dollar  per  bushel. 

PEPPERS  (Capsicum  annuum)  are  usually  sown 
under  glass  about  April  1st,  and  should  not  be 
transplanted  to  the  open  ground  until  the  weather 
is  warm  and  settled  —  say  about  June  1st,  in  this 
locality.  They  are  a  family  of  plants  exhibiting 
very  remarkable  diversities  in  shape,  size  and 
colour,  as  well  as  in  the  more  or  less  pungent 
taste  by  which  they  are  characterized;  some 
changing,  as  they  ripen,  from  the  green  colour 
of  the  young  pod  to  various  brilliant  shades  of 
red,  and  others  to  yellow  and  orange  tints  of  like 
intensity  —  thus  becoming  in  the  highest  degree 
ornamental  and  interesting,  but  of  course  not  any 
more  valuable  to  carry  to  market. 

All  Peppers  require  a  warm,  mellow  soil,  and 
heavy  manuring  applied  either  before  or  during 
growth.  The  rows  may  be  set  eighteen  inches 
apart,  and  the  plants  a  foot  apart  in  the  rows. 

Of  certain  sorts,  the  pickle  factories  use  large 
quantities,  which  are  grown  at  very  small  prices 
on  contracts;  but  our  market  gardeners  raise 
peppers  only  in  very  small  lots;  merely  enough  to 

[190] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

supply  the  retail  trade.  The  Squash  or  tomato- 
shaped  variety  is  the  kind  chiefly  grown  for  the 
pickle  factories,  and  is  well  adapted,  being  thick- 
fleshed,  of  pungent  flavour,  very  productive  and 
of  good  size. 

The  Bell,  or  Bull  Nose,  is  a  large  and  mild- 
flavoured  variety,  and  is  one  of  the  most  popular. 
The  Sweet  Mountain,  or  Mammoth,  resembles 
the  Bell  in  some  respects,  and  is  perhaps  just  as 
desirable,  being  similar  in  shape,  not  unlike  in 
flavour,  and  larger;  while  in  the  same  class  with 
these  old  and  well-known  varieties  comes  the 
new  Ruby  King,  of  larger  growth  and  milder 
flavour  than  either  —  in  many  respects  a  superior 
kind,  and  unequalled  by  any  other.  It  commonly 
attains  a  size  of  from  four  and  a  half  to  six  inches 
long  by  about  four  inches  through.  The  fruit 
is  so  mild  and  pleasant  to  the  taste  that  it  may 
be  sliced  and  eaten  with  pepper  and  vinegar  as 
is  done  with  tomatoes  or  cucumbers,  and  when 
thus  used  makes  a  very  agreeable  salad.  The 
plant  is  of  a  sturdy,  bushy  habit  of  growth. 

Long  Cayenne  is  the  strong  pungent  variety 
with  which  every  one  is  acquainted.  It  is  very 
late,  and  the  pods  while  still  young  and  green  are 

[191] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

frequently  used  for  pickling.  Another  very  hot 
and  pungent  variety,  of  similar  quality  but  not 
quite  so  acrid,  and  of  entirely  different  habit  of 
growth,  is  the  Red  Cluster;  in  which  the  small, 
thin  peppers,  of  a  coral-red  colour,  stand  crowded 
together  in  bunches  at  the  top  of  each  branch. 
It  closely  resembles  the  Chili,  from  which  variety 
it  originated. 

THE  POTATO  (Solarium  tuberosum)  prefers  soils 
of  a  sandy  or  gravelly  nature,  although  it  will 
succeed,  to  some  extent,  on  all  soils  ranging 
between  a  light  loam  and  a  stiff  clay,  provided  there 
is  just  the  right  amount  of  moisture.  But  it  is 
worse  than  folly  to  attempt  to  grow  potatoes  on 
land  that  is  waterlogged,  or  not  well  and  thoroughly 
drained,  either  by  natural  or  artificial  means. 
A  newly  turned  sod,  other  things  being  favourable, 
forms  the  best  potato  land.  In  our  own  experience 
(especially  on  land  that  has  been  heavily  manured 
for  previous  crops),  the  use  of  stable  manure, 
or  of  wood  ashes,  somewhat  promotes  the  "scab"; 
commercial  fertilizers  have  given  us  much  the 
smoothest  crop.  Whatever  manuring  is  applied 
should,  as  a  rule,  be  put  on  broadcast.  On  some 
lands,  exceptionally  light  and  dry,  level  culture 

[192] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

may  prove  the  best;  but  we  have  succeeded  better 
by  a  moderate  hilling  up.  This  seems  to  keep 
the  land  light  and  friable.  Make  the  cultivator 
and  shovel-plough  do  all  the  hilling,  and  most 
of  the  hoeing.  For  this  purpose,  put  the  rows 
three  feet  apart.  Drop  the  seed  ten  or  twelve 
inches  apart  in  the  row;  cut  to  one  eye,  around 
which  leave  a  good  portion  of  the  substance  of 
the  tuber,  so  that  the  young  growths  may  have 
plenty  of  nourishment  until  the  roots  get  well 
established. 

Two  or  three  times,  before  the  crop  comes  up, 
a  smoothing  harrow  should  be  run  over  the  piece, 
destroying  the  young  weeds  as  soon  as  they  start. 
The  Colorado  beetles,  or  potato  bugs,  formerly 
so  much  dreaded,  are  now  disposed  of  very  easily 
by  the  use  of  Slug  Shot  or  Paris  green;  either  is 
death  to  the  bugs. 

The  selection  and  cutting  of  seed  are  important 
points.  We  recommend  medium-sized  tubers, 
cut  to  one  eye.  The  tuber  itself  is  not  a  seed, 
but  merely  an  enlargement  of  the  underground 
stem,  and  in  planting  tubers,  either  entire  or  cut, 
we  are  putting  in,  not  seeds,  but  slips  or  cuttings, 
in  which  size  is  not  essential;  but  probably  it  is 

[193] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET   GARDENING 

better,  as  a  rule,  to  use  well-shaped,  medium-sized 
ones,  cut  to  a  single  eye. 

In  a  potato  tuber  held  stem  end  down,  it  may 
be  seen  that  the  eyes  are  arranged  in  regular 
ascending  rotation.  For  advantageously  dividing 
it  to  single  eyes  (as  is  more  especially  necessary  to 
those  who  buy  new  and  valuable  varieties),  the 
following  method  is  adopted: 

An  indentation  will  be  found  in  each  tuber, 
clearly  indicating  which  is  the  stem  end.  The 
cuts,  to  be  made  with  a  thin-bladed  knife,  are 
all  sloped  toward  it;  each  cut  removes  one  eye, 
proceeding,  in  succession,  from  the  lowest  to  the 
highest.  Humphrey's  potato  knife  is  one  specially 
devised,  with  a  blade  of  curved  and  concave  shape, 
for  cutting  out  single  eyes  in  general  accordance 
with  the  above  method,  and  possesses  some 
advantages  over  an  ordinary  knife,  for  that  service. 

Cultivation  of  the  young  plants  should  com- 
mence as  soon  as  they  are  fairly  above  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  and  continue  until  the  appearance 
of  the  blossoms,  when  no  further  attention  will 
be  required  until  the  time  of  harvesting  the  crop. 

At  each  successive  hoeing,  bring  up  earth  against 
the  plants,  adding  a  little  each  time  both  for 

[194] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

support  to  the  stalks  and  also  to  develop  the  side- 
shoots. 

For  digging  the  crop,  there  is  at  present  no  more 
satisfactory  implement  provided  than  the  digging- 
fork  or  the  potato-hook.  There  are,  to  be  sure, 
already  several  different  implements  designed  and 
constructed,  and  to  some  extent,  perhaps,  put 
to  use  for  employing  the  labour  of  horses  in  loosen- 
ing and  lifting  the  tubers  from  the  soil.  But  the 
best  of  them  —  the  very  latest  as  well  as  the  earlier 
ones  —  have  attained  but  a  very  moderate  degree 
of  success,  even  when  working  under  fairly  favour- 
able conditions;  and  in  stony  or  mucky  soils  will 
not  do  the  work.  There  is  still  a  fortune  in  waiting 
for  the  man  who  invents  a  completely  successful 
machine  digger. 

Varieties  are  so  numerous,  and  many  are  so 
little  distinct,  that  to  mention  even  a  quarter  of 
them  would  be  confusing.  The  Early  Rose  has 
an  almost  endless  number  of  closely  related  kinds, 
such  as  Early  Sunrise,  Early  Gem,  Chicago 
Market,  Early  Vermont  and  others.  Standard 
favourites  are  the  early  and  late  varieties  of 
Beauty  of  Hebron,  Green  Mountain,  Irish  Cobbler, 
Early  Norwood,  Bovee  and  Uncle  Sam. 

[195] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

Whatever  variety  is  most  popular  should  be 
chosen  to  plant  for  market;  and  where  there  is 
close  similarity  it  is  evident  that  soil  and  cultivation 
are  of  far  more  importance  than  choice  of  a  kind. 

RADISH  (Raphanus  sativus).  Until  within  the 
past  few  years,  culture  of  radishes  was  confined  to 
the  open  ground;  but  now  the  growing  of  this 
crop  under  glass  has  assumed  important  propor- 
tions. 

For  growing  in  hot-houses  the  Scarlet  Globe 
is  almost  the  sole  variety  used,  as  it  has  a  short  top, 
is  a  quick  grower  and  of  good  quality.  The  seed 
is  sown  at  any  time  during  the  cold  season,  from 
October  to  April.  The  crop  is  usually  ready  for 
pulling  about  eight  weeks  from  the  sowing  of  the 
seed.  The  temperature  should  be  kept  rather 
low,  say  from  45  degrees  to  60  degrees.  Grown 
in  this  manner  it  will  be  seen  that  three  crops 
may  be  grown  under  the  same  glass  each 
season. 

The  soil  required  to  grow  them  to  perfection 
is  a  loose,  sandy  loam;  and  it  should  be  well 
worked,  with  a  liberal  quantity  of  well-rotted 
manure  thoroughly  mixed  in.  The  seed  is  sown 
in  rows  about  four  inches  apart;  and  the  plants 

[196] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

are  thinned  to  about  two  inches  apart  in  the 
row.  When  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in 
diameter,  they  are  pulled  and  bunched,  ten  in  a 
bunch.  The  price  varies  from  fifty  cents  to  one 
dollar  per  dozen  bunches;  but  even  at  the  smaller 
price  they  are  considered  a  profitable  crop. 

When  grown  in  hot-beds,  they  are  usually 
grown  following  a  crop  of  lettuce;  as,  when  the 
lettuce  has  been  grown  the  heat  is  then  nearly 
spent,  and  the  loam  is  in  just  about  the  right  con- 
dition for  growing  a  crop  of  radishes.  It  is  more 
suitable  than  a  fresh  bed;  which  would  be  likely 
to  stimulate  an  excessive  growth  of  the  tops. 

They  are  grown  in  rows  four  inches  apart,  and 
thinned  to  three  inches  in  the  row.  Sometimes  a 
crop  of  carrots  is  grown  with  them;  and,  when 
this  is  done,  every  third  row  is  left  out  for  the 
carrots.  After  the  radishes  are  taken  off,  the 
carrots  will  occupy  the  ground  to  advantage. 
The  glass  can  be  taken  from  the  bed  early  in  the 
spring  and  used  for  some  other  crop. 

In  order  to  have  a  succession  for  constant 
pulling,  it  is  necessary  to  make  sowings  every 
week  or  ten  days,  from  the  first  of  April  to  the 
middle  of  June.  The  radishes  will  require  thin- 

[197] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

ning,  say  to  three  inches  apart.  When  pulled, 
they  are  put  eight  in  a  bunch. 

Besides  the  varieties  we  have  mentioned,  the 
following  are  grown  to  some  extent  in  home 
gardens  and  for  special  consumption:  French 
Breakfast  and  Early  Scarlet  Olive-Shaped  (both 
good  forcing  varieties,  good  also  for  out-door 
culture)  and  White  Tip  Scarlet  Turnip. 

The  winter  varieties  are  but  little  grown.  The 
Black  Spanish  and  Chinese  Rose  Winter  are  the 
leading  ones,  and  when  grown  for  winter  use 
should  be  stored  in  sand,  in  order  to  keep  them 
fresh. 

RHUBARB  (Rheum  hybridum)  is  now  quite 
extensively  grown,  both  in  field  culture  and  forced 
under  glass.  It  is  generally  propagated  from 
plants  obtained  by  dividing  the  heavy,  fleshy  root, 
which  grows  to  a  considerable  size  in  plants  long 
established;  and  these  are  improved  by  the  removal 
of  a  part  —  also  by  occasional  transplantings  to 
new  grounds. 

When  raised  from  seed,  the  sowing  is  to  be  done 
in  April,  in  drills  about  one  inch  in  depth. 

A  deep,  very  rich  retentive  soil  is  desirable  for 
growing  such  large  and  tender  stalks  as  the  market 

[198] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED   FOR  MARKET 

demands,  and  for  bringing  them  forward  in  good 
season.  A  few  days  lost  or  saved  in  getting  into 
market  often  makes  a  difference  of  one-half  in  the 
price. 

The  first  pulling  of  the  out-door  crop  is  usually 
made  the  last  of  April  or  the  first  of  May,  and 
the  plants  continue  to  furnish  a  supply  until  about 
the  first  of  July.  It  is  put  up  in  bushel  boxes 
and  will  return  from  $2.00  per  box  at  the  start 
down  to  35  cents  during  May. 

The  crop  is  forced  either  by  setting  thickly  in 
hot-beds  or  hot-houses,  or  by  leaving  roots  about 
three  feet  apart  in  the  ground  where  they  have 
grown,  and  setting  cold-frames  over  them.  The 
glass  is  put  on  about  the  first  of  February.  The 
price  on  forced  crop  varies  even  more  than  that 
of  out-door  growth;  but  $5.00  is  a  fair  estimate 
of  average  returns  from  each  3x6  sash. 

The  two  varieties  best  known  here  are  the  Lin- 
naeus, early,  large  and  tender;  and  the  Victoria, 
also  large,  but  later;  of  the  two  the  former  is  the 
better  kind,  though  both  are  good. 

Another  sort,  very  superior  to  either,  and  in 
fact  better  than  any  other  variety  known,  is  the 
Paragon,  earliest  of  all,  and  very  productive. 

[199] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

It  is  not  inclined,  as  are  some  other  sorts,  to  run  to 
seed.  The  leaf  is  small,  while  the  stalks  are  large 
and  heavy. 

SALSIFY  (Tragopodon  porrifolius) .  Culture  of 
this  vegetable,  although  limited,  is  increasing. 
It  is  also  known  under  the  name  of  Oyster  Plant, 
or  Vegetable  Oyster.  It  should  be  sown  early, 
in  drills  fifteen  inches  apart ;  the  seeds  to  be  covered 
an  inch  and  a  half  deep.  The  crop  will  succeed 
best  when  grown  on  a  light,  sandy  loam,  well 
enriched  and  very  thoroughly  worked  before 
sowing.  The  after  culture  is  much  the  same 
as  for  carrots  or  parsnips.  The  spring  supply 
may,  if  desired,  be  left  in  the  ground  over  winter, 
as  the  roots  are  not  injured  at  all  by  freezing. 

In  marketing,  the  roots  are  tied  in  bunches 
of  twelve  each,  none  but  good-shaped  ones  being 
used.  The  Mammoth  Sandwich  Island  is  the 
best  kind,  very  smooth  and  white,  growing  double 
the  size  of  the  Long  White,  and  of  excellent 
quality. 

SEA  KALE  (Crambe  maritimd).  This  vegetable 
produces  blanched  shoots  which  are  cooked  and 
eaten  in  the  same  manner  as  asparagus.  It  is 
less  extensively  cultivated  than  it  deserves  to  be. 

[200] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

The  seed  is  sown  early  in  the  spring,  in  drills 
fourteen  inches  apart,  and  covered  one  inch  deep. 
After  the  young  plants  are  up,  thin  to  six  inches. 
It  is  a  perennial  plant,  and  requires  to  be  trans- 
planted the  following  spring,  into  ground  that  has 
been  thoroughly  trenched  and  well  manured, 
being  then  placed  in  hills  three  feet  apart  each  way. 

Late  in  the  fall,  when  the  leaves  have  separated 
from  the  crown,  heap  over  each  plant  a  shovelful 
of  clean  sand,  and  earth  up  a  ridge  a  foot  and  a 
half  high  over  the  rows,  from  a  trenching  dug 
along  the  space  between  them,  and  beat  it  smooth 
with  the  back  of  the  spade. 

In  the  spring,  after  the  cutting  is  over,  the  earth 
should  be  levelled  back  into  the  trenches,  so  as  to 
expose  the  crowns  of  the  plants ;  and  a  good  coat  of 
strong  manure  should  be  spread  and  dug  around 
them.  There  is  only  one  variety  in  cultivation. 

SPINACH  (Spinacia  oleraced)  is  fast  becoming 
one  of  the  leading  crops  of  our  market  gardens, 
being  sold  and  used  during  the  whole  of  the  year. 
For  winter  use  it  is  usually  brought  from  the 
South.  The  crop  that  comes  early  in  the  spring 
is  usually  sown  about  the  first  of  September,  and 
at  the  beginning  of  winter  is  protected  with  a 

[201] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

covering  of  hay  or  boughs.  This  crop  generally 
lasts  until  about  June  1st,  when  that  sown  in  the 
spring  will  be  ready  for  marketing. 

It  is  sold  by  the  bushel.  The  receipts  of  an 
acre  when  the  yield  was  generally  large  would 
be  about  $200,  while  if  the  crop  was  scarce  it 
might  reach  as  high  as  $1,000.  In  spring  culture 
frequent  sowings  are  usually  made  to  furnish 
a  continuous  supply. 

It  is  sown  in  drills,  three  feet  apart,  and  thinned 
to  about  twelve  inches  apart  in  the  row;  though 
the  New  Zealand  (a  very  large  hot  weather  kind, 
not  much  cultivated)  requires  intervals  of  two 
feet  or  more. 

The  crop  will  bear  a  liberal  amount  of  manure, 
and  for  the  fall-sown  crop  a  dressing  of  about 
seven  hundred  pounds  of  sulphate  of  ammonia  is 
usually  given  in  the  spring. 

For  the  spring  sowing  the  Round  Thick-leaved 
is  used,  and  for  later  use  the  Long  Standing; 
so  called  because  it  stands  longer  (by  about  three 
weeks)  without  going  to  seed  than  any  other 
variety.  In  fall  sowing  for  spring  cutting  the 
Arlington  Pointed  Leaf  is  the  favourite,  as  it  is 
choice  and  hardy.  The  Prickly,  or  Fall  Spinach, 

[202] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED   FOR  MARKET 

is  a  prickly  seeded  sort,  with  triangular  oblong, 
or  arrow-shaped  leaves,  the  hardiest  of  all;  mostly 
used  for  fall  sowings.  The  Savoy-Leaved  is  a 
curled  sort  of  good  quality,  and  very  ornamental 
in  appearance. 

SQUASH  (Species  of  Cucurbita)  is  very  largely 
cultivated  for  all  markets.  As  it  is  a  tropical  plant, 
in  Northern  latitudes  the  season  is  too  short  for 
maturing  the  later  varieties.  They  are  exceedingly 
tender,  and  must  not  be  planted  in  the  spring  till 
all  danger  from  frost  is  over. 

There  are  two  quite  distinct  kinds  —  Early 
Bush  and  Running;  the  last-named  being  later. 
The  Summer  Crookneck  and  the  Bush  Scallop 
belong  to  the  former.  The  cultivation  of  both 
these  varieties  is  the  same.  Plant  in  rows  six 
feet  apart,  with  hills  four  feet  apart  in  the  row.  If 
the  weather  at  transplanting  favours,  a  week's 
time  may  be  saved  by  starting  under  glass.  They 
mature  with  us  about  the  4th  of  July.  In  some 
localities  the  Bush  Scallop  is  preferred,  but  in 
the  Boston  market  the  Crookneck  is  more  sought 
for. 

The  Early  Prolific  Marrow  is  planted  about 
the  same  time,  and  matures  about  four  weeks 

[203] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

later.  The  hills  are  put  nine  feet  apart  each  way; 
with  a  liberal  amount  of  seed  in  each  hill,  as  the 
plants  are  just  coming  on  in  the  height  of  the  bug 
season.  Cover  the  seed  about  one  inch  deep. 
Manure  with  about  six  cords  of  stable  manure 
per  acre,  mainly  spread  on  broadcast,  but  put  one 
shovelful  in  each  hill,  and  with  the  latter  mix 
one  shovelful  of  coal  ashes  to  protect  them  from 
the  borers.  When  planted  with  spring  greens  on 
ground  manured  with  twenty  cords  per  acre,  the 
dressing  in  the  hill  may  be  omitted.  The  dark, 
oblong-shaped  Marrow  is  a  very  saleable  sort, 
on  account  of  the  colour;  but  its  keeping  qualities 
are  very  poor.  The  true  Boston  Marrow  is  light- 
coloured  and  quite  round,  and  when  planted  late 
will  keep  almost  as  well  as  the  Hubbard. 

Next  in  order  comes  the  Bay  State;  after  it  the 
Turban,  which  is  followed  by  the  Essex  Hybrid. 
The  two  last-named  are  nearly  alike  in  appearance, 
the  only  difference  being  that  the  Hybrid  has  a 
hard  shell.  The  Hybrid  is  much  the  better  keeper 
of  the  two  —  is  more  productive  and  is  also  of 
better  quality. 

The  Bay  State  is  superior  to  either,  uniting  in 
itself  a  long  list  of  desirable  qualities  —  such  as 

[204] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

extraordinary  weight  and  solidity  of  flesh,  fineness 
and  dryness  of  grain  and  sweetness  of  flavour. 
It  has  also  an  extremely  hard  shell  —  always  a 
sign  of  superior  keeping  qualities.  The  colour 
of  the  shell  is  green,  but  the  flesh  is  of  a  bright 
golden  yellow.  It  is  equally  productive  with  the 
Hybrid. 

In  form  and  general  appearance,  it  bears  some 
resemblance  to  the  Essex  Hybrid,  but  has  a  more 
deeply  corrugated  surface. 

As  these  later  varieties  make  more  vine  than 
the  Marrows,  they  should  be  planted  as  much  as 
eleven  feet  apart  each  way.  They  are  often  put  in 
with  a  crop  of  beans  or  peas,  two  rows  of  peas  or 
beans  being  cultivated  in  each  interval  between 
the  squash  rows;  and  these  can  be  harvested  and 
out  of  the  way  before  the  vines  crowd  upon  them. 
These  two  varieties  reach  maturity  about  the  last 
of  August,  and  continue  bearing  through  September 
and  October,  or  until  frost.  The  Turban  must 
be  marketed  soon  after  picking;  but  the  Hybrid 
and  Bay  State  may  be  kept  well  into  the  winter. 

Among  the  varieties  maturing  latest  are  the 
Hubbard  and  Victor  Marblehead ;  of  which  the  first 
is  almost  universally  preferred. 

[205] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

Squashes  are  sold  by  weight,  with  the  exception 
of  the  summer  varieties.  These  are  sold  by  the 
dozen.  The  price  obtained  is  very  variable. 
None  of  the  varieties  are  accounted  a  paying  crop 
unless  they  bring  at  least  fifteen  dollars  per  ton. 

When  picking  for  storing  great  care  should  be 
taken  not  to  bruise  them  or  break  off  the  stems. 
They  are  brought  from  the  fields  in  wagons  and 
put  in  piles,  to  remain  until  quite  dry,  and  then 
stored  in  an  even  temperature  as  near  50  degrees 
as  possible. 

THE  TOMATO  (Lycopersicum  esculentum)  holds  a 
high  place  amongst  vegetables  in  general  estima- 
tion, both  for  its  use  in  a  fresh  state,  and  for 
canning  and  manufacturing  into  catsup ;  so  that  its 
extended  and  still  increasing  cultivation  is  a  subject 
peculiarly  interesting  to  market  gardeners  of  the 
country.  Within  the  past  twenty  years,  the  tomato, 
from  an  almost  unknown  and  little-considered 
product  of  a  few  small  gardens,  has  grown  into 
popular  favour  to  such  an  extent  that  the  area  of  its 
cultivation  is  now  reckoned  in  thousands  of  acres, 
and  will  doubtless  continue  to  be  further  enlarged 
as  population  increases;  especially  about  its  chief 
centres  and  near  the  canning  establishments. 

[206] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

During  this  period  of  expanding  cultivation 
there  has  been  great  improvement  in  varieties, 
not  so  much  in  respect  of  earliness,  perhaps,  as 
in  size  and  quality. 

In  order  to  induce  a  stocky  growth,  the  young 
plants  are  twice  transplanted.  The  second  trans- 
planting should  be  made  before  the  plants  com- 
mence to  crowd  and  grow  spindling,  and  this 
time  they  should  be  put  eight  inches  apart.  This 
last  transplanting  is  always  made  in  hot-beds, 
but  the  first  is  usually  made  in  the  house;  the 
plants  being  put  four  inches  apart. 

About  the  25th  of  May  the  plants  sown  the 
middle  of  February  may  generally  be  set  in  the 
open  ground;  and  should  be  planted  in  rows  six 
feet  apart,  with  plants  five  feet  in  the  row.  The 
tomatoes  usually  follow  a  crop  of  spinach;  and 
but  little  additional  manure  is  applied  except 
in  the  hill;  five  or  six  cords  per  acre  are  usually 
put  on  wThere  the  crop  does  not  follow  spinach; 
but  merely  for  hills  about  two  cords  will  be 
sufficient,  and  will  push  the  crop  along  wonder- 
fully. 

In  very  rich  soil  a  tendency  to  grow  too  much 
to  vines  may  be  expected.  The  best  results, 

[207] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

both  in  quality  and  quantity,  and  of  course  the 
earliest-ripened  fruit,  will  be  secured  from  a 
warm,  light  soil,  moderately  fertilized  with  well- 
rotted  manure  in  the  hills,  and  in  a  sunny  location. 

Four  feet  apart  in  the  row  will  do  for  the  hills 
in  the  case  of  the  early  crops,  to  be  raised  on  light, 
sandy  soil.  For  culture  on  heavy,  rich  soil  (only 
suited  to  the  later  crop)  five  feet  apart  will  be 
needed. 

The  young  plants  should  be  given  water  freely 
at  the  time  of  transplanting;  and  may  need  some 
shelter  from  the  sun  for  a  few  days,  or  until  they 
become  well  established  in  their  new  location. 

Some  cultivators  dip  the  roots  and  stems  in 
a  puddle  or  grout,  when  planting  out,  after 
the  method  we  have  advised  for  cabbage,  and 
report  that  the  addition  of  a  small  amount  of 
kerosene  oil  stirred  into  the  grout,  operates  as 
an  efficient  preventive  of  the  cutworm.  A  mixture 
is  made  of  equal  parts  of  manure  fresh  from  the 
cow  stall  and  fine  clay  dust;  this  stirred  up  with 
water,  and  a  handful  of  cotton  meal  to  a  bucketful 
of  the  mixture,  makes  an  adherent  puddle;  into 
which  is  put  a  half-teacupful  of  the  kerosene. 

This  difficulty  with  the  cutworm  is  seldom  exper- 
[208] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

ienced  by  those  who  keep  their  ground  under 
continual  tilth  throughout  the  whole  season,  as 
such  culture  serves  materially  to  discourage  and 
drive  off  these  and  similar  pests. 

As  with  squashes,  and  indeed  with  all  other 
plants  of  a  climbing  or  running  habit,  it  is  very 
conducive  to  stockiness  and  vigour  of  growth 
in  the  vines  (and  therefore  to  solidity  and  soundness 
of  the  fruit)  to  keep  them  well  shortened  back, 
by  pinching  off  the  extremities  of  the  tops,  and, 
more  or  less,  of  the  secondary  shoots  which  may 
show  themselves  above  the  earliest  blossoms. 
This  will  develop  a  more  stocky  growth  and  will 
also  hasten  the  maturity  of  the  first  fruits  which 
set. 

It  is  no  longer  considered  good  practice  to 
allow  the  vines  to  trail  upon  the  ground  for  lack 
of  some  support  such  as  may  be  afforded  by  a 
trellis  or  in  any  similar  way.  This  is  often  ac- 
complished by  what  is  called  "hoop-training." 
Drive  three  stakes  and  fasten  barrel-hoops  to  these. 
Another  very  good  way  is  to  use  only  two  stakes 
and  a  single  hoop;  these  stakes  to  stand  three  and 
a  half  feet  high  from  the  ground;  and  the  hoop, 
which  should  be  broad,  flat  and  strong,  to  be  well 

[209] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

nailed  to  the  stakes  at  about  three  feet  from  the 
ground. 

With  the  same  object  in  view,  a  portable  tomato- 
trellis  is  now  made  and  sold,  which  serves  well. 
Its  construction  is  simple,  cheap  and  durable. 
It  is  certainly  a  great  convenience  in  tomato- 
growing.  Either  of  the  foregoing  methods  serves 
to  prevent  the  tomatoes  from  lying  on  the  ground ; 
and  thus  develops  and  matures  fruit  that  would 
otherwise  go  to  decay,  or  at  least  fail  to  ripen  off; 
and,  furthermore,  greatly  facilitates  cultivating 
and  gathering  the  crop. 

Near  Boston  the  first  picking  is  often  made 
by  the  tenth  of  July,  and  at  that  early  date  usually 
brings  a  good  price,  sometimes  as  high  as  ten 
dollars  per  bushel;  but  the  market  soon  declines, 
and  often  falls  below  paying  prices.  The  average 
product  of  an  acre  may  be  reckoned  at  about  $400. 

The  tomato  is  grown  also  in  hot-houses,  being 
started  in  the  fall  from  seed ;  or  may  be  grown  from 
slips  or  cuttings.  While  the  method  of  propa- 
gation by  cuttings  has  been  recommended  and 
practised  by  some,  especially  for  the  later  crop,  I 
think  it  is  far  better  to  grow  both  late  and  early 
crops  from  the  seed;  as  vines  from  cuttings  are 

[210] 


S 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

found  to  be  far  less  productive;  and  the  plants 
from  seed  can  be  secured  for  any  date  in  the 
season  by  timely  sowing. 

For  spring  crop  in  the  house  seed  should  be 
sown  the  latter  part  of  December  and  pricked  off 
about  three  inches  apart.  In  about  two  weeks 
the  young  plants  can  be  potted  into  4- inch  pots 
in  order  to  facilitate  handling  later  on.  By  the 
first  of  March  they  will  be  ready  to  set  into  the 
house.  Plant  20  to  24  inches  apart.  As  plants 
grow,  trellis  or  string  them  to  wires  overhead  to 
support  the  plants. 

They  should  begin  to  bear  in  May  and  last  till 
August.  Care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the  air  in 
the  house  as  dry  as  possible,  to  prevent  mildew. 

For  the  house-grown  product  the  price  is  some- 
times as  high  as  fifty  cents  a  pound;  and  they  con- 
tinue to  yield  good  profits  to  the  grower  until 
shipments  begin  to  arrive  from  the  South.  There 
are  but  a  very  few  varieties  suited  for  forcing, 
and  among  these  the  Lorillard  is  an  established 
favourite.  Comet  and  Wilson's  Market  Garden 
are  new  varieties  especially  recommended  for 
forcing. 

For  out-door  culture  the  varieties  catalogued  are 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

numerous  enough,  but  there  are  few  of  real  merit. 
Rawson's  Puritan  has  been  grown  by  us  for 
several  years  as  a  leading  early  variety,  and  has 
proved  not  only  to  be  one  of  the  earliest  but  one  of 
the  most  profitable  in  culture  as  a  market  variety. 

Another  early  variety  is  Belmont,  one  which  well 
maintains  its  claim  to  a  front  rank  among  tomatoes ; 
being  handsome  in  colour,  ripening  perfectly 
throughout  and  not  inclined  to  crack  or  rot. 

Earliana  is  the  first  early  market  variety;  of 
good  size  and  quality;  but,  of  course,  the  very  early 
sorts  cannot  be  expected  to  be  as  solid,  nor  as 
good  in  flavour,  as  those  maturing  later. 

The  best  main-crop  sort  is  the  Stone.  Large, 
firm,  of  bright  scarlet  colour,  and  a  great  yielder. 

Only   leading  varieties   have  been   mentioned. 

TURNIP  (Brassica  Rapa) .  This  crop  is  not  very 
extensively  grown  in  the  market  garden,  as  the 
demand  is  limited.  The  flat  varieties  are  the  only 
ones  cultivated  for  early  marketing. 

The  soil  best  adapted  to  the  crop  is  a  sandy  or 
gravelly  loam,  well  enriched  and  thoroughly 
worked.  The  seed  should  be  sown  as  early  in  the 
spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  in  drills  about 
fourteen  inches  apart.  After  the  plants  have 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

reached  the  proper  size,  thin  to  six  or  eight  inches 
apart  in  the  drill.  By  the  last  of  June,  in  ordinary 
seasons,  they  will  have  reached  the  size  of  an  ordin- 
ary "Boston  cracker"  and  are  then  ready  for 
bunching. 

They  are  tied  five  in  a  bunch  and  marketed  in 
the  same  manner  as  early  beets.  The  Early 
Milan  Purple  Top  and  the  Early  Purple  Top 
Munich,  which  closely  resemble  each  other  in 
most  particulars,  are  principal  sorts  raised  for 
early  bunching,  and  are  certainly  as  good  as  any. 

The  proceeds  per  acre  of  a  good  piece  of  turnips 
is  about  the  same  as  of  beets,  and  the  cost  of  raising 
is  about  the  same,  but  on  the  whole  they  are  not 
as  sure  a  crop  as  beets,  as  they  are  quite  liable 
to  become  rough,  scabby,  and  wormy,  and  conse- 
quently worthless. 

For  fall  use,  the  seed  may  be  sown  any  time 
from  July  1st  to  August  20th,  and  they  are  often 
sown  with  grass  seed,  using  about  half  a  pound 
per  acre  broadcast  with  the  grass.  Grown  in 
this  way,  their  leaves  serve  as  a  protection  and  a 
help  to  the  grass  plants  as  soon  as  they  commence 
to  start. 

The  fall  crop  is  marketed  by  the  bushel,  either 
[213] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

in  the  fall  or  during  the  winter  as  wanted,  and 
may  be  stored  either  in  cellars  or  pits.  For  this 
crop,  the  Purple  Top  White  Globe,  the  White  Egg 
and  the  Red  Top  Strap-Leaved  are  quite  desirable 
varieties. 

The  Ruta  Bagas  are  almost  wholly  grown  as 
a  farm  crop,  as  they  are  not  sufficiently  profitable 
for  the  market  garden.  These  may  be  sown 
any  time  during  July,  and  are  often  used  to  follow 
after  a  crop  of  cabbage  or  peas.  Sow  in  drills 
eighteen  inches  apart,  and  thin  to  one  foot  apart  in 
the  row. 

There  are  no  better  ruta  bagas  than  the  best 
strains  of  White  Sweet  German,  which  are  almost 
universally  used  both  for  marketing  and  home 
use.  The  White  French,  or  Rock,  is  a  long,  oval 
turnip,  very  mild  and  sweet;  the  flesh  is  solid  and 
white,  like  the  German. 

The  London  Extra  Yellow  Swede  and  the 
Shamrock  Yellow  Swede  and  Carter's  Imperial 
are  the  leading  yellow-fleshed  sorts,  and  are  quite 
similar  to  each  other  in  appearance. 

WATERMELONS  (Cucurbita  citrullus)  are  but  little 
grown  except  as  a  farm  crop,  and  where  land  is 
cheap.  They  can  be  readily  handled  and  bear 

[214] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

shipping  well.  What  is  known  as  "warm  land" 
is  to  be  preferred  for  this  crop.  The  soil  should 
be  of  a  sandy  or  gravelly  nature,  and  it  is  not 
important  that  it  should  be  very  rich.  Plant 
as  soon  as  the  weather  becomes  settled;  ordinarily 
about  the  middle  of  May.  Cover  about  half  an 
inch  deep  and  press  the  soil  down  firmly  so  as  to 
hold  the  moisture.  Two  shovelfuls  of  manure 
should  be  put  in  each  hill,  or  one  in  the  hill  with 
a  light  dressing  on  top.  The  intervals  should  be 
eight  feet  each  way.  Five  seeds  are  put  in  each 
hill,  and  the  plants,  after  being  well  started, 
should  be  thinned  out  so  as  to  reduce  the  number 
to  three.  They  require  the  same  cultivation  as 
squash  or  any  other  field  crop.  Phinney's  Early 
is  the  best  early  sort. 

Black  Spanish  is  an  old  reliable  variety,  very 
hardy  and  productive,  and  excellent  for  cultivation. 
The  popular  Mountain  Sweet  is  a  very  large  oval 
variety,  with  a  striped  skin  and  thin  rind.  Kolb's 
Gem,  or  American  Champion,  a  variety  of  estab- 
lished merit,  is  also  highly  esteemed  as  a  market 
variety;  it  carries  well,  and  is  of  extra  fine  quality. 
The  Iron-clad  is  a  favourite  market  variety  in 
many  localities.  It  grows  very  large  and  is  a 

[215] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

good  keeper.  The  variety  called  Scaly  Bark  is 
distinguished  by  its  rough  skin.  The  rind  is 
unusually  thin,  but  very  tough,  and  it  bears 
transportation  to  a  great  distance  without  injury. 
The  well-known  Citron  melon  is  raised  entirely 
for  preserving,  and  is  wholly  valueless  otherwise. 

YAM,  CHINESE  (Dioscorea  Batatas).  Although 
this  vegetable  has  been  grown  in  this  country 
for  several  years,  it  has  hardly  obtained  the  popu- 
larity which  it  merits.  It  is  really  one  of  the  most 
valuable  esculents  in  cultivation.  The  vine  will 
grow  to  a  length  of  from  ten  to  twenty  feet,  accord- 
ing to  soil  and  location.  The  leaves  are  very  dark 
in  colour,  and  heart-shaped;  the  flowers  are  small, 
white  and  grow  in  clusters.  The  root  is  of  pale 
russet  colour,  oblong,  regularly  rounded,  club- 
shaped,  largest  at  the  lower  end. 

The  roots,  cut  in  pieces  an  inch  long,  or  bulblets, 
should  be  planted  eight  inches  apart.  A  deep, 
light  soil,  moist  and  well-enriched,  is  best  adapted 
to  the  plant.  A  well-grown  root,  two  years  from 
the  bulblet,  should  measure  two  feet  in  length. 
They  may  be  cooked  either  by  steaming  or  roasting, 
and  the  flesh  will  be  found  very  white  and  of  most 
agreeable  flavour. 

[216] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

It  would  be  impossible  to  find  a  plant  of  easier 
culture,  as  the  roots  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  can 
be  kept  growing  year  after  year  in  the  same  location 
if  desired.  There  is  no  insect  that  troubles  either 
the  vine  or  tuber,  and  no  vine  can  exceed  it  in 
vigour  of  growth.  They  increase  naturally  from 
the  small  tubers,  or  bulblets,  which  form  along 
the  vine  just  above  the  leaf  joints.  These  should 
be  gathered  in  the  fall,  and  protected  against 
freezing  during  the  winter.  They  may  be  planted 
any  time  during  the  spring,  after  danger  of  severe 
freezing  is  past.  The  flowers  have  a  peculiar  cin- 
namon-like fragrance;  hence  the  name  "Cinnamon 
Vine,"  under  which  some  dealers  have  sent  it  out. 

When  grown  in  the  garden,  and  merely  for  the 
tubers,  the  vines  may  be  allowed  to  run  on  the 
ground;  but  if  bulblets  are  desired,  these  will  be 
produced  in  greater  abundance  when  poles  or  other 
supports  are  employed  to  keep  the  vines  up  from 
the  soil. 

I  here  bring  to  a  close  this  discussion  of  special 
crops,  and  their  appropriate  special  culture.  In 
regard  to  the  rules  here  given,  and  to  the  general 
rules  for  cultivation  which  occupy  the  earlier  pages 

[217] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

as  well  —  I  take  occasion  to  remark  that  a  wide 
field  yet  remains  open  for  experiment  and  enter- 
prise. Every  grower  should  be  an  experimenter 
(of  course  we  mean  on  a  prudent  and  moderate 
scale),  and  should  habitually  report  his  processes 
and  results  for  comparison  with  those  obtained 
by  others.  He  should  take  pains  to  observe  ac- 
curately, and  report  faithfully  and  in  full  detail  all 
such  matters.  The  various  agricultural  experiment 
stations  established  in  different  states  gladly  re- 
ceive reports  so  prepared. 

The  director  and  his  assistants  proceed  to  study 
and  compare  the  matters  so  reported.  With  their 
peculiar  facilities  and  opportunities  they  digest  and 
condense  the  combined  experiences  of  many  intelli- 
gent observers.  Including  with  these  the  results  of 
their  own  more  scientific  inquiries,  they  are  enabled 
to  put  forth  publications  in  continuous  series,  very 
valuable  to  the  farmer  or  gardener,  and  thereby 
promotive  of  the  general  prosperity  of  the  country. 

There  are  many  new  and  inviting  openings 
for  the  further  study  of  plants  and  plant  culture; 
as,  for  instance,  in  electro-culture,  now  just  barely 
beginning  to  be  practically  undertaken;  in  vege- 
table and  insect  physiology,  in  which  much  has 

[218] 


VEGETABLES  RAISED  FOR  MARKET 

been  learned,  and  much  yet  remains  to  be  explored; 
and  in  the  very  many  obscure  conditions  affecting 
health  and  growth,  quality  and  quantity  of  product, 
and  the  like. 

As  instances  of  appliances  already  in  universal 
use  amongst  market  gardeners,  yet  susceptible 
of  indefinite  further  modifications  and  improve- 
ment, may  be  mentioned  forcing- houses  and 
hot-beds.  Both  of  these,  in  their  many  and  very 
various  details  of  construction  and  operation, 
obviously  need  to  be  studied  as  separate  (and 
far  from  simple)  subjects  of  further  inquiry  and 
comparison.  On  the  choice  between  greenhouse 
and  hot-bed  growing,  in  any  case,  or  between 
the  many  different  practicable  ways  of  putting 
up  and  operating  either,  may  depend  many  results 
involving  the  true  or  false  economy  of  the  plan; 
and  thus  the  pecuniary  success  or  failure  of  the 
grower. 

Thus  far  in  the  present  work  I  have  had  in 
mind,  and  mainly  confined  myself  to  describing, 
the  growing  of  crops  and  use  of  means  and  pro- 
cesses which  I  could  recommend  as  successful 
from  a  sufficiently  extended  experience  of  my  own. 
In  the  pages  that  are  to  follow,  I  propose  to  include, 

[219] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
with  description  of  tools  and  other  requisites, 
some  of  the  various  means  and  appliances  that  are 
growing  in  favour  though  not  yet  fully  established 
or  that  are  likely  to  prove  adapted  to  cases  and 
under  circumstances  slightly  different:  in  either 
case  worthy  of  notice  as  alternatives.  These, 
or  some  of  these,  may  often  prove  useful  as  sub- 
stitutes for  those  more  familiarly  known  and  used 
by  myself;  to  which  I  have  given  preference 
for  obvious  reasons,  in  the  pages  preceding. 


[220] 


CHAPTER    VII 

IMPLEMENTS,  ORDINARY  AND  SPECIAL  —  FURTHER 
METHODS  AND  APPLIANCES INSECTS  AND  PRE- 
VENTIVES —  FUMIGATION,  HOW  CONDUCTED 

FUNGI,  AND  PLANT  DISEASES PREVENTIVES 

CONCLUSION 

CONTINUED  improvement  still  appears  from  year 
to  year  in  agricultural  implements ;  and  some  of  the 
tools  now  used  in  the  market  garden  and  on  the 
farm  are  of  quite  recent  invention ;  or  have  become, 
through  various  modifications,  entirely  different 
in  operation  and  effect  from  those  in  use  only  three 
or  four  years  ago ;  although  some  of  the  more  com- 
mon ones,  such  as  are  required  and  in  use  by  every 
farmer  and  gardener  (hoes,  rakes,  forks,  spades, 
etc.),  have  but  little  changed.  The  leading  Ameri- 
can manufacturers  of  small  tools  have  so  nearly 
perfected  the  style  and  quality  of  these,  as  to  leave 
practically  nothing  more  to  be  desired.  No  other 
nation  can  compete  with  us  in  the  production  of 
handsome,  handy  and  durable  articles  of  this  class. 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

There  is  a  considerable  opportunity  for  choice, 
even  amongst  small  tools  of  almost  the  same  pat- 
tern and  make.  No  good  shoveller  is  quite  satis- 
fied unless  he  can  have  his  own  shovel  to  work  with 
—  it  fits  his  hand  better  than  any  other.  Hoes  and 
forks  have  their  peculiar  merits  and  demerits,  such 
as  can  hardly  be  accounted  for  upon  a  cursory 
examination,  but  in  long-continued  use  become 
apparent.  All  these,  however,  involve  but  little 
outlay,  and  their  possible  peculiarities  are,  there- 
fore, of  less  importance  to  be  discussed;  but,  of 
course,  the  clumsy  ones  should  be  avoided,  or  dis- 
carded as  soon  as  convenient;  and  better  ones 
should  be  watched  for,  and  secured  as  soon  as 
obtainable.  Good  tools  make  cultivation  easier, 
and  crops  better  in  amount  and  quality.  There 
should  be  a  tool-house,  which  should  also  have 
an  outfit  for  making  small  repairs.  Tools  after 
use  should  be  immediately  returned  to  place. 
They  should  always  be  cleaned  off  after  being  left ; 
iron  and  steel  parts  should  be  wiped  and  oiled, 
or  treated  with  some  more  thorough  dressing, 
according  to  their  liability  to  rust,  and  the  length 
of  time  they  are  likely  to  remain  unused. 

Tools  operated  by  horse  power  form  a  large  and 


IMPLEMENTS 

interesting  class  of  implements,  in  most  of  which 
the  steady  progress  of  improvement  is  very  con- 
spicuous. Limits  of  space  will  confine  us  to  con- 
densed description  —  often  to  a  mere  brief  men- 
tion —  in  treating  of  these.  More  detailed  descrip- 
tion is  usually  to  be  had  on  application  to  the  manu- 
facturers or  their  selling  agents,  in  the  form  of 
elaborate  pamphlets,  freely  illustrated;  which  (if 
read  with  discreet  allowance  for  the  bias  of  their 
authors)  may  be  consulted  with  profit  for  addi- 
tional information. 

The  KEMP  MANURE  SPREADER  holds  the  field 
alone  in  its  class.  As  already  shown  (except  under 
unusual  circumstances,  or  perhaps  in  the  culti- 
vation of  a  very  few  crops,  of  which  asparagus, 
melons  and  tomatoes  are  the  chief  examples)  — 
the  application  of  manure  by  a  SPREADER  is  seldom 
practised  by  the  market  gardener  because  the 
capacity  of  these  machines  is  limited  to  about  six 
or  seven  cords  per  acre;  but  where  that  amount 
will  suffice,  and  the  spreader  is  put  into  service, 
it  gives  a  very  satisfactory  result. 

We  will  presume  that  the  use  of  the  PLOUGH 
in  turning  under  broadcast  dressings  of  manure  has 
been  sufficiently  dwelt  upon  previously  and  in  the 

[223] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
cultural  directions  for  special  crops.  After  the 
manure  has  been  supplied  and  turned  under,  the 
next  main  requisite  in  preparing  for  a  crop  is  to 
pulverize  the  soil;  and  since  the  plough  is  very 
efficient  in  this  and  other  services,  in  fact  quite 
indispensable,  it  is  manifestly  one  of  the  most 
important  of  agricultural  implements. 

Amongst  the  many  varying  styles,  and  different 
manufacturers,  competing  for  preference,  it  is  a 
natural  question  to  ask  which  is  the  best.  There 
is  no  complete  answer  that  can  be  given  to  this 
inquiry.  Nearly  all  of  the  leading  styles  are  of 
practical  use,  and  each  has  its  own  peculiar  and 
individual  merits.  In  certain  soils  and  for  certain 
purposes,  one  kind  of  plough  will  often  be  found 
to  do  the  work  and  answer  the  purpose  in  view 
better  than  another,  while,  under  different  con- 
ditions, the  latter  might  be  decidedly  the  more 
serviceable  of  the  two. 

All  the  different  makes  now  in  favour  are  good, 
and  some  are  known  to  be  specially  adapted  to 
certain  kinds  of  work.  For  example,  a  mould 
board  that  lifts  and  turns  the  slice  very  gradually 
will  operate  easily,  and  turn  the  bottom  side  upper- 
most with  the  least  possible  disturbance  of  the 

[224] 


IMPLEMENTS 

earth;  a  shorter  mould  board  with  a  quicker  twist 
will  stir  and  pulverize  the  soil.  No  one  need  have 
any  difficulty  in  finding  one  which  will  serve  his 
purpose  when  he  knows  what  he  wants. 

Sulky-ploughs,  and  sulkies  attached  to  ordinary 
ploughs,  are  well  adapted  for  use  on  level  land, 
when  a  large  amount  of  work  is  to  be  done. 

The  two-horse  land-side  plough  is  the  one  most 
used.  Even  in  this  class,  different  makers  have 
different  styles,  and  each  claims  for  his  own  that 
it  is  the  best;  but  every  cultivator  should  judge 
for  himself  which  is  the  best  adapted  to  his  needs, 
and  endeavour  to  confirm  his  judgment  by  actual 
trial  before  purchasing.  Much  use  also  is  made 
of  the  swivel-plough.  The  large-sized  or  two-horse 
pattern  is  chiefly  designed  for  breaking  up  sod 
land.  It  would  rarely  be  needed  for  this  use  by 
market  gardeners,  but  is  occasionally  required  for 
various  other  services.  A  small,  or  one-horse 
swivel-plough,  will  often  be  found  very  convenient, 
especially  when  ploughing  close  to  fences.  Wher- 
ever the  land  needs  to  be  thrown  all  one  way  the 
swivel  pattern  comes  into  requisition. 

The  different  patterns  of  ploughs  which  should  be 
provided  include  one  very  large  and  one  of  medium 

[225] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

size  (both  land-side),  and  also  a  subsoiler.  Each 
of  these  is  to  be  worked  with  two  horses.  As 
already  said,  where  much  ploughing  is  to  be  done, 
a  sulky  is  very  useful.  Provide  also  one  (side-hill 
or)  swivel  plough  for  one  horse,  two  single  (or  one- 
horse)  land-side  ploughs,  and  a  very  small  one  with 
double  mould  board,  suitable  for  going  between 
narrow  rows  —  one  which  will  throw  up  the  earth 
but  very  little. 

Next,  perhaps,  in  importance  to  the  plough 
comes  the  HARROW.  Of  harrows  there  are  almost 
as  many  styles  as  of  ploughs.  The  cheapness  and 
solid  construction  of  the  primitive  A-harrow  with 
spike  teeth,  and  of  some  others  of  that  class  (or 
approaching  it)  are  about  all  they  have  to  recom- 
mend them.  Neither  spike  teeth,  spring  teeth, 
coulters  pushed  or  trailed,  nor  any  similar  devices 
whatever  will  fully  meet  all  requirements  as  pul- 
verizers. 

Disk  or  wheel  harrows  are  now  commonly 
employed.  One  of  the  earliest  of  these,  the  La 
Dow,  was  for  a  time  very  extensively  used,  and 
generally  admitted  to  be  the  best  pulverizer  on  the 
market. 

Other  implements  operating  much  like  the  La 


IMPLEMENTS 

Dow,  and  using  similar  circular  disks,  are  the 
Corbin,  Climax,  Warrior  and  Reynolds.  All  have 
sulky  seats  and  sometimes  carry  scrapers. 

In  Clark's  Cutaway  harrow  each  disk  is  in  one 
piece  at  the  hub  or  centre;  but  it  is  shaped  at  the 
circumference  into  six  small  blades,  being  cut  away 
with  deep  triangular  notches,  to  obvious  advantage. 

The  Morgan  Spading  is  the  latest  and,  I 
think,  best  of  the  wheel  harrows,  for  reasons  fol- 
lowing: Solid  disks  in  one  revolution  bear,  sub- 
stantially, a  constant  scraping  contact  to  the  earth 
of  about  four  feet.  Cutaway  disks  present  a  very 
similar  contact,  of  about  two  feet  in  a  revolution. 
Both  styles  are  usually  weighted  down  to  perform 
their  work.  The  Morgan  blade  or  spade  is 
narrow,  rounded  and  sharp,  the  end  having  but 
about  two  inches  cutting  surface,  or  one  foot  in  one 
revolution  of  each  set. 

The  Meeker  Smoothing  Harrow  is  employed 
either  for  levelling  the  surface  of  land,  that  it  may 
be  ploughed  evenly,  or,  after  ploughing,  to  prepare 
for  the  seed-drill. 

Every  practical  cultivator  knows  the  style  and 
construction  of  a  good  ROLLER.  The  nature  of 
the  service  it  performs  has  already  been  treated 

[227] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

of  in  preceding  pages.  A  larger  use  than  is  ordi- 
narily made  of  this  very  important  implement  is  to 
be  recommended. 

Next  in  order  of  usefulness  comes  the  CULTI- 
VATOR. After  the  land  has  been  plowed,  subsoiled, 
harrowed,  rolled  and  planted,  this  serviceable 
implement  is  called  into  requisition.  It  executes 
with  thoroughness,  dispatch  and  economy,  a  large 
amount  of  work  that  used  to  be  laboriously  per- 
formed with  hand-hoes.  Many  varieties  are 
offered  to  choose  from,  and  the  choice  I  recom- 
mend may  not  accord  with  every  one's  individual 
opinion,  but  I  consider  the  Planet,  Jr.,  on  the 
whole  the  best  I  have  ever  seen;  principally  be- 
cause it  can  be  put  into  so  many  different  shapes  by 
varying  the  combination  of  its  parts,  and  thus 
so  many  different  kinds  of  work  can  be  done  with 
it.  The  illustrated  catalogue  of  the  makers  very 
fully  describes  its  construction,  with  all  its  most 
recent  improvements  and  additional  features;  and 
explains  the  many  transformations  of  which  it 
is  capable  by  interchange  and  substitution 
among  its  different  parts,  each  having  special 
adaptations,  and  showing  great  fertility  of 
mechanical  contrivance. 

[  228  ] 


IMPLEMENTS 

In  its  general  operation,  it  is  wonderfully 
efficient  and  economical;  it  stirs  and  pulverizes 
the  ground,  destroying  weeds,  giving  aeration, 
and  promoting  moisture  about  the  roots  of  growing 
plants;  it  will  throw  the  earth  to  or  from  the  rows 
as  may  be  desired;  it  does  pretty  much  all  that  can 
be  done  with  a  hand-hoe  in  cultivating  the  crop. 
Many  who  are  using  this  implement  to-day  do  not 
hoe  their  crops  at  all  by  hand  work.  It  requires 
discretion  and  skill  to  obtain  such  effective  results 
from  its  use,  but  there  is  no  question  that,  in  the 
hands  of  one  who  thoroughly  understands  its 
capabilities,  it  can  be  made  to  do,  at  a  greatly 
reduced  cost,  a  large  amount  of  hoeing  formerly 
done  with  the  hand-hoes. 

Besides  being  economical  on  the  score  of  expense, 
it  is  also  highly  advantageous  in  enabling  the  far 
more  rapid  execution  of  the  work.  Crops  often 
suffer  for  want  of  a  timely  stirring  of  the  soil, 
especially  in  times  of  drought;  weeds  must  be 
cut  down  as  soon  as  they  show  themselves;  even 
when  neither  weeds  nor  drought  threaten  the  crops 
it  is  beneficial  to  the  soil,  and  thus  to  the  growing 
plants,  that  it  should  be  turned  or  stirred  as  fre- 
quently as  may  be  to  give  it  life.  Labour  with 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
an  ordinary  hand-hoe  is  manifestly  unequal  to 
carrying  out  the  work  of  this  description;  it  costs 
too  much,  and  goes  over  too  little  ground  in  a  day. 
The  implement  under  the  name  of  Planet,  Jr., 
Horse-Hoe  and  Cultivator  Combined,  meets  the 
exigencies  we  have  described  in  a  thoroughly  satis- 
factory manner  wherever  the  width  of  planting 
permits  the  use  of  a  horse.  No  farmer  or  market 
gardener  can  afford  to  dispense  with  this  or  some 
equivalent  form  of  cultivator.  It  combines  in  a 
single  machine,  the  horse-hoe,  cultivator,  furrower 
and  coverer.  The  side- hoes  or  plates  are  reversible, 
thus  giving  double  wear;  and  the  levers  control 
adjustments  that  allow  more  or  less  hilling,  and 
also  regulate  the  depth,  in  conformity,  with  the 
object  or  purpose  for  which  it  is  to  be  used.  This 
adjustability  is  a  most  important  feature  in  suit- 
ing its  use  to  various  soils  or  crops,  or  to  various 
stages  of  growth.  That  position  of  the  standards 
or  hoes  which  is  shown  in  the  illustration,  is  the 
one  which  casts  the  earth  toward  the  rows;  but 
whenever  the  opposite  result  is  aimed  at,  it  can  be 
arranged  for  merely  by  changing  their  positions, 
putting  each  on  the  opposite  side,  the  work  of  a 
few  moments  only.  Although  the  present  age  is 

[230] 


IMPLEMENTS 

an  age  of  improvements,  and  predictions  are  always 
rash,  I  have  thought  and  still  consider  it  next  to 
impossible  that  this  implement  will  be  superseded 
or  very  much  improved  upon. 

The  HAND-HOE  most  used  by  market  gardeners 
is  one  rather  wide  and  thin,  say  ten  inches  by  four 
inches  for  the  blade;  and  on  light,  sandy  land,  such 
as  they  generally  have  in  cultivation,  one  of  this 
description  will  be  found  very  much  to  be  pre- 
ferred. 

The  SHOVELS  used  are  of  two  kinds,  one  with 
short  handle  and  square  blade,  the  other  with 
a  long  handle  and  round  point.  The  former  is 
always  employed  for  putting  the  heating  material 
into  hot-beds,  the  square  part  being  convenient 
for  making  the  bottom  of  the  bed  smooth  and  even. 
The  long  one  serves  best  for  banking  celery  and 
ordinary  work  around  the  fences  and  buildings. 
The  spade  is  a  tool  that  is  little  used  except  to  dig 
horseradish  and  roots,  and  occasionally  for  dig- 
ging celery  when  it  is  large  and  cannot  be  thrown 
over  with  the  plow. 

The  six-tined  FORKS  are  the  ones  most  used  for 
pitching  manure,  digging  in  hot-beds,  and  all 
the  work  done  with  a  fork ;  but  the  spading- fork  is 

[231] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

also  a  very  useful  tool;  expressly  adapted  to  loos- 
ening and  throwing  over  garden  soil.  It  is  made 
with  only  four  tines;  these  are  either  flat  or  angular 
in  shape,  with  but  little  to  choose  between  the  two 
styles. 

The  SLIDE  HOE  is  used  mostly  between  the  rows 
of  beets,  lettuce,  spinach,  onions,  dandelions, 
parsley,  celery  and  all  the  crops  sown  by  machine. 
This  tool  is  made  in  different  widths  so  as  to  fit 
the  varying  intervals  between  the  rows  for  which 
it  is  intended.  The  smallest  are  four  inches  wide, 
and  they  are  made  to  range  upward  to  nine  inches. 
They  are  used  by  sliding  them  in  a  direction 
parallel  with  and  along  the  row,  and  the  knives 
enter  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  about  one  inch,  making 
the  land  loose  and  light  on  the  top,  and  destroy- 
ing the  weeds. 

The  LITTLE  GEM  WHEEL  HOE  is  a  hand  imple- 
ment combining  some  of  the  characteristics  of  the 
horse-hoe,  or  cultivator,  and  the  slide  hoe;  thus 
producing  a  very  serviceable  tool.  It  is  well- 
proportioned,  as  regards  size,  to  the  work  to  be 
done;  built  light  and  strong;  all  iron  and  steel, 
except  handles;  well  made,  and  handsomely  fin- 
ished and  adjustable  in  every  way.  It  is  made 


IMPLEMENTS 

with  single  wheel,  for  use  between  the  rows; 
and  also  with  double  wheel,  for  use  astride 
the  rows. 

Wheel-hoes  for  similar  service  are  likewise  made 
and  sold  by  the  Planet,  Jr.,  manufacturers,  who 
continue  to  maintain  their  well-known  high  stan- 
dard of  excellence  in  all  goods  of  this  class.  More- 
over, the  wheel-hoes  of  their  design  possess 
unrivalled  advantages  of  adaptation  to  different 
kinds  of  work,  by  reason  of  their  many  possible 
transformations.  These  are  very  ingenious. 

The  SEED-SOWER  or  DRILL  is  one  of  the  most 
useful  and  labour-saving  implements  in  the  entire 
outfit  of  the  market  garden.  It  is  used  to  sow 
nearly  all  kinds  of  seed.  Even  peas  and  beans 
are  ordinarily  sown  by  this  machine.  The  quan- 
tity of  seed  sown  is  regulated  by  small  tins,  with 
holes  affording  passage  for  the  seeds  to  the  exact 
amount  required,  and  the  distance  between  rows 
is  regulated  or  marked  by  a  chain  which  is  made 
to  drag  from  an  adjustable  arm.  While  one  row 
is  being  sown,  the  next  one  is  marked  by  the  chain. 
The  adjustable  arm  is  a  stick  pierced  with  little 
holes,  and  placed  across  the  handles  of  the  machine. 
The  depth  of  the  sowing  is  regulated  by  raising  or 

[233] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
lowering  the  tooth  which  ploughs  a  little  furrow 
for  the  seed  to  drop  in.  The  seed  may  be  sown 
from  one-fourth  of  an  inch  to  three  inches  deep, 
and  is  covered  by  two  little  blocks,  so  arranged  as  to 
draw  the  dirt  over  upon  the  seed.  This  is  followed 
by  a  roller,  which  is  regulated  by  a  spring  so  as  to 
roll  heavily  or  lightly  as  may  be  desirable. 

The  Arlington  seed  drill  is  altogether  the  best 
pattern  of  seeder  ever  seen  by  me.  It  is  very 
generally  used  by  market  gardeners  in  the 
vicinity  of  Boston,  and  every  one  who  has  it  in 
use  approves  it  highly.  It  has  a  large  wheel, 
some  twenty-eight  inches  in  diameter,  with  a 
broad  rim,  two  and  one-half  inches,  which  pre- 
vents its  sinking  into  the  mellow  earth,  and  runs 
so  easily  that  it  can  be  used  all  day  without 
fatigue  to  the  operator.  It  sows  fine  seeds  with 
perfect  regularity,  as  well  as  the  larger  seeds. 

The  Little  Gem  drill  is  small  but  efficient. 
It  was  devised  in  response  to  a  general  desire 
among  small  gardeners  for  an  inexpensive  drill 
which  will  do  perfect  work;  and  it  satisfies  this 
demand  completely. 

Still  other  seed-sowers  are,  the  Matthews's,  the 
Monitor,  the  Planet,  Jr.,  and  the  Iron  Age. 

[234] 


IMPLEMENTS 

For  the  planting  of  corn,  beans  and  other  seeds 
of  the  larger  class,  and  for  use  on  rough  or  stony 
land,  the  need  is  met  by  such  machines  as  the 
Billings's,  Albany,  or  Eclipse.  All  these  are  to  be 
run  with  a  horse;  and  are  supplied  with  fertilizing 
attachments  for  depositing,  properly  distributed, 
any  requisite  amount  of  dry  fertilizing  powder  at 
the  same  time  as  the  seed. 

Each  year  competition  in  market  gardening  and 
root-growing  makes  garden  seed-drills  more  neces- 
sary. With  their  assistance,  seed-sowing  can  be 
done  with  so  much  greater  regularity,  rapidity,  and 
ease,  and  with  such  large  saving  of  seed  as  well, 
that  the  planting  of  a  very  small  acreage  is  suffi- 
cient to  warrant  the  purchase  of  a  tool  which  is 
now  made  so  reliable,  simple,  and  inexpensive. 

The  Planet,  Jr.,  combined  drill,  wheel  hoe, 
cultivator,  rake  and  plough  was  in  its  primary  form 
a  seed-sower;  and  has  been  made  adaptable  to 
many  of  the  various  subsequent  operations  requisite 
in  vegetable  culture  by  various  ingenious  cultiva- 
ting attachments.  The  change  from  a  seed-drill 
to  a  wheel  hoe  can  be  made  in  a  few  moments  by 
taking  out  two  bolts,  and  putting  on  the  hoes. 

These  can  be  safely  set  to  cut  within  an  inch  of 
[235] 


^.SUCCESS  IN  MARKET   GARDENING 

the  rows  at  the  first  hoeing  of  small  plants  from 
seed.  It  is  then  that  careful  and  close  work 
counts. 

This  method  is,  of  course,  applicable  equally  to 
all  kinds  of  crops  when  small.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  watch  the  course  of  the  blades,  but  only  to  keep 
the  row  exactly  spread  between  the  wheels.  If 
desired,  in  place  of  the  hoe  blades,  a  pair  of  culti- 
vator-teeth may  be  used  for  mellowing  the  soil 
effectually,  while  causing  less  lateral  disturbance 
of  the  surface. 

Subsequently,  when  the  plants  are  of  larger  size, 
the  cultivation  is  performed  by  propelling  the  hoe 
between  the  rows  (instead  of  astride).  A  single 
cultivator-tooth  being  attached  centrally,  in 
addition  to  the  two  hoe-blades  the  entire  space 
between  the  rows  is  covered  and  worked  into 
mellow  condition  by  one  passage  of  the  tool  — 
every  weed  being  destroyed.  The  width  may 
be  adjusted  to  suit  all  rows  not  wider  apart  than 
sixteen  inches. 

By  another  obvious  modification,  replacing 
the  two  hoe-blades,  used  in  the  last  described  com- 
bination, by  cultivator-teeth,  we  obtain  a  three- 
tooth  cultivator,  for  stirring  and  mellowing  between 

[236] 


IMPLEMENTS 

the  rows  without  causing  any    (general)    lateral 
movements  of  the  soil. 

The  hoe-blades  may  be  attached  so  as  to  throw 
either  toward  or  from  the  rows.  By  other  and 
similar  changes,  it  may  be  readily  turned  into  a 
ten-toothed  rake,  useful  for  light  cultivation,  or, 
again,  it  becomes  a  handy  little  plough,  for  light 
furrowing  and  covering.  Other  details  may  be 
gathered  from  the  illustrated  pamphlet,  issued 
by  the  manufacturers. 

I  consider  the  Planet,  Jr.,  Double  Wheel  Hoe 
to  be  the  most  desirable  tool.  It  is  built  with  sole 
adaptation  to  the  cultivation  of  the  rows.  A 
separate  implement  is  put  to  service  for  sowing 
and  covering. 

RAWSON'S  FIELD  MARKER  is  a  very  useful  tool. 
It  will  work  either  ten,  twelve,  twenty  or  twenty- 
four  inch  intervals  by  simply  changing  the  pins 
in  the  wheel  (which  are  put  in  with  a  nut)  and  will 
mark  as  fast  as  a  man  can  walk.  It  is  found 
especially  useful  in  setting  out  cabbage,  cauli- 
flower, celery,  lettuce,  etc.  After  once  using  this  im- 
plement, no  farmer  will  be  willing  to  be  without  one. 
There  are  two  markers  used  in  marking  the  beds 
for  lettuce  to  be  grown  under  glass.  One  marks  five 

[237] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
rows  —  one  under  each  row,  or  light,  of  glass,  when 
there  are  five  lights  wide  in  each  sash,  of  six  inches 
each.  The  other  is  then  used  to  mark  ten  places 
for  plants  in  each  row,  thus  making  fifty  plants 
under  each  sash.  The  bed  is  prepared  with  the 
sash  off,  and  when  the  sash  is  to  be  put  in  place 
over  the  bed  each  space  is  marked,  by  the  two 
men  putting  on  the  gla,ss;  the  one  on  the  lower,  or 
front  side,  using  the  one  with  the  handle,  and  the 
man  on  the  back  side  using  the  other  marker. 

A  RAKE-HANDLED  MARKER  with  ten  teeth  is  also 
made  for  sowing  radishes  or  cabbage  or  lettuce. 
Mark  the  rows  by  drawing  the  teeth  from  the 
back  of  the  bed  toward  the  front,  bearing  down 
so  as  to  make  the  furrows  deep,  if  required;  and 
always  making  the  first  tooth  of  the  marker  follow 
for  a  guide  the  row  just  made  by  the  last  tooth, 
thus  making  nine  rows  under  each  sash  four  inches 
apart. 

The  CABBAGE  CARRIER  is  very  useful.  It  is  light 
and  durable,  and  can  easily  be  carried  between  the 
rows  of  cabbages.  It  is  made  of  such  size  as  to 
hold  all  that  two  men  will  want  to  carry. 

GREENHOUSE  HEATING.  We  have  supplied 
on  a  preceding  page  figures  for  making  ready 

[238] 


IMPLEMENTS 

estimates  of  the  piping  needed.  These  figures 
are  based  upon  our  own  experience  in  structures 
of  ordinary  proportions.  For  instance,  the  gen- 
eral cross-section  of  one  of  the  author's  green- 
houses in  Arlington  has  dimensions  frequent  in 
ordinary  practice:  Height  at  the  back,  10  feet; 
height  at  front,  4  feet;  under  the  ridge,  that  is,  at 
the  highest  point  of  the  interior,  15  feet;  span, 
33  feet.  The  length  of  this  structure  is  nearly 
400  feet. 

These  figures,  of  course,  indicate  a  definite 
interior  cubic  content;  and  from  the  heating  by 
pipes  actually  done  there  I  have  derived  rules 
which  admit  of  ready  application,  for  all  build- 
ings substantially  similar;  even  though  somewhat 
differing  in  height  of  front  or  rear  wall,  pitch  of 
roof,  etc.,  and  of  any  less  or  greater  length,  likely 
to  be  erected  for  the  purposes  of  the  vegetable- 
grower. 

A  more  elaborate  calculation  may  generally  be 
had  (free  of  charge  to  the  person  contemplating  the 
outlay),  together  with  estimates  for  doing  the  work, 
from  any  of  the  numerous  establishments  that 
stand  ready  to  contract  for  and  supply  modern 
heating  equipment  in  its  various  forms.  In  such 

[239] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 
calculations  it  has  been  common  to  reckon  from 
the  glass  surface  actually  present  in  the  given  case. 
A  method  still  more  precise  consists  in  reckoning 
from  the  whole  exposed  surface  of  the  structure; 
glass,  sides  and  ends;  rating  the  two  latter  as  of 
one-third  the  radiating  effect  resulting  from  a 
similar  surface  of  glass. 

ELECTRO-CULTURE.  In  my  Arlington  green- 
house above  mentioned  is  afforded  an  example  of 
successful  and  profitable  use  of  the  electric  light 
in  stimulating  plant  growths.  Four  10-ampere, 
45  volt,  Brush  arc  lamps  of  2,000  nominal  candle- 
power  are  employed,  when  the  beds  are  occupied 
with  lettuce,  with  the  effect  of  causing  the  growth 
of  this  crop  to  be  maintained  continuously  instead 
of  being  intermitted  at  night;  this  saves  time,  if 
not  quite  proportionately,  at  least  in  a  material 
degree;  accelerating  the  maturity  of  the  crop,  and 
enabling  the  cucumber  plants,  which  are  to  follow, 
to  begin  their  growth  so  much  the  earlier. 

I  have  not  yet  extended  my  use  of  the  electric 
light  to  the  culture  of  other  crops  than  lettuce; 
and  believe  there  is  ground  for  thinking  that  some 
at  least  will  be  injured,  rather  than  benefited  by 
that  treatment.  Except  in  the  case  of  lettuce, 

[240] 


IMPLEMENTS 

other  experimenters  have  found  such  results  as 
leave  it  still  a  problem  whether  it  can  be  used  to 
advantage.  Some  experiments  made  at  Ithaca, 
N.  Y.,  indicate  that  it  is  better  to  intermit  the  use 
of  the  electric  lamps  during  some  portion  of  each 
night,  and  always  on  moonlight  nights.  The 
employment  of  the  ordinary  white  opal  globes 
—  to  temper  or  modify  the  bare  unshaded  light 
(when  run  continuously)  —  also  appeared,  in  those 
experiments,  to  be  beneficial,  but  I  have  not  used 
them. 

For  the  forcing  of  asparagus  and  other  peren- 
nials, permanent  outside  beds  are  sometimes  used. 
These  beds  are  so  constructed  as  to  afford  a  sub- 
stitute for  the  more  convenient  but  highly  expen- 
sive equipment  of  hot-houses  having  water  or  steam 
pipes  for  supply  and  regulation  of  heat.  As  they 
involve  a  much  smaller  initial  outlay,  they  may  be 
considered  as  affording,  under  certain  circum- 
stances, a  more  desirable  method. 

Where  such  a  bed  is  proposed,  the  plan  gener- 
ally followed  is  to  surround  the  bed  by  a  trench 
bricked  up  on  the  outside  and  filled  with  stable 
manure.  As  often  as  may  be  required  by  the  tem- 
perature, the  manure  is  renewed.  The  bed  may 

[241] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

be  lour  or  five  feet  wide,  and  as  long  as  desired; 
of  course,  covered  with  glass.  If  made  six  feet 
wide,  the  ordinary  3x6  glass  can  be  used,  which 
is  more  convenient;  and,  in  such  case,  it  is  desir- 
able to  have  box  flues  leading  across  through  the 
centre  of  the  bed  from  one  trench  to  the  other  in 
order  to  promote  distribution  of  the  heat.  Some- 
times there  is  only  one  trench,  running  length- 
wise through  the  centre  of  the  bed,  thus  dividing 
it  into  two  narrow  ones. 

The  growth  made  in  forcing-houses  enclosing 
temporary  beds  is  thought,  however,  to  be  rather 
more  profitable  in  the  final  result.  It  is  usual  to 
make  the  temporary  bed  three  feet  wide;  and  for 
asparagus  the  rows  are  put  one  foot  apart,  with  the 
plants  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Such 
close  planting  will  need  heavy  manuring  and 
close  attention. 

If  a  cheap  house  for  forcing  asparagus,  etc.,  in 
early  spring  is  as  much  as  is  aimed  at,  the  following 
plan,  recommended  in  "The  American  Garden," 
is  as  good  as  any.  It  may  be  made  either  as  a 
double  or  single  span;  if  double  span,  8  or  10  feet 
wide.  Build  a  wall  from  the  frost  line  to  a  foot 
above  ground.  Frame  and  cover  with  glass.  If 


IMPLEMENTS 

the  drainage  is  not  good,  it  must  be  made  so. 
Dig  a  trench  two  feet  wide  through  the  centre  for 
a  walk.  Make  an  excavation  several  feet  square 
at  one  end,  to  serve  for  the  furnace  or  stove,  and 
also  for  the  entrance.  To  heat  the  beds,  carry  the 
smoke  around  the  outside  of  the  bed  in  flues  which 
are  almost  entirely  below  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
the  smoke  finally  passing  out  of  the  chimney. 
Near  (and  for  some  distance  from)  the  furnace, 
build  the  flue  of  brick  to  prevent  fire,  but  the  rest 
construct  of  boards.  In  summer,  the  sash  can  be 
removed,  and  in  winter  it  would  be  better  to  apply 
a  mulch  and  cover  the  frame  with  boards  rather 
than  the  sash,  as  it  would  be  more  apt  to  give  an 
equal  temperature. 

Arrange  the  beds  on  each  side  of  the  walk,  and 
plant  as  has  been  above  described  for  temporary 
beds  in  forcing-houses.  It  will  be  remembered 
that  where  so  little  earth  is  allowed  to  each  plant 
it  is  necessary  to  manure  often  and  heavily. 

PUMPING  OUTFIT. — There  has  already  been 
given  a  general  outline  of  apparatus  for  water 
supply  and  distribution;  and  here  I  repeat  the 
remark  that,  there  being  a  wide  field  for  choice  in 
selecting  and  arranging  the  various  requisite 

[243] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

features,  and  the  outlay  usually  being  large,  pru- 
dence demands  a  careful  study  in  advance  of  all 
attendant  conditions  and  circumstances.  Then, 
after  one  has  made  for  himself  the  best  scheme  he 
can  individually  devise,  and  before  embarking  his 
means  in  the  execution  of  it,  it  will  pay  to  call 
in  the  services  of  an  expert,  skilful  enough  to  com- 
prehend the  particular  case,  and  to  utilize  in  it  the 
experience  of  a  large  professional  practice.  It  will 
not  do,  however,  to  leave  all  to  him ;  the  proprietor 
must  make  it  his  own  business,  none  the  less,  to 
understand  the  whys  and  wherefores,  and  to  take 
no  step  of  which  he  cannot  feel  he  clearly  under- 
stands the  method  and  the  reason. 

Amongst  the  first  questions  to  be  weighed  and 
decided  is  that  concerning  steam  boilers  and  wind- 
mills which  (or  whether  both  or  whether  either) 
—  shall  be  utilized  for  power.  The  pump  must 
be  one  adapted  to  the  power  employed.  In  case 
wind  and  steam  are  both  put  to  service,  two  sepa- 
rate and  distinct  pumps  will  usually  be  required. 
With  steam,  the  direct-action  horizontal  pumps 
(of  which  the  Deane  pattern  is  a  good  example) 
are  well  adapted  for  the  work.  Various  makers  of 
steam  pumps  offer  various  other  patterns  which 

[244] 


IMPLEMENTS 

are  good  and  efficient,  or  may  be  presumed  to  be 
so,  from  the  fact  that  they  divide  the  market  de- 
mand, with  no  distinct  essential  superiority  evident 
in  either. 

Minor  circumstances  commonly  determine  one's 
choice.  If  any  one  pattern  were  positively  and 
essentially  superior,  it  would  not  take  long  for  the 
others  to  drop  out  of  sight  —  so  thoroughly  have 
the  respective  merits  and  demerits  of  all  such  ap- 
paratus been  established  by  long-continued  tests,  in 
widely  extended  service.  Simplicity  of  action  is 
important,  but  this  condition  does  not  (at  least  in 
all  cases)  exclude  belted  or  geared  connections. 
The  best-arranged  windmill  pumps  are  "geared 
back"  —  though  probably  the  majority  of  those 
at  present  in  use  work  the  pump-rod  by  direct 
attachment  to  the  crank-pin. 

Our  own  experience,  already  given,  as  regards 
the  power  to  be  employed  has  extended  only  to 
wind  and  steam.  But  there  is  yet  another  means 
for  filling  and  irrigating  tanks  or  mains.  It  con- 
sists in  employing  the  power  of  one  or  more  horses, 
working  in  a  horse-power  machine,  suitably  con- 
structed and  solidly  geared  in  combination  with 
a  powerful  suction  and  force  pump;  drafting  the 

[245] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

water  from  the  well  or  supply  main  and  raising  it 
to  the  storage  tank. 

This  constitutes  a  complete  and  self-contained 
pumping  outfit.  It  has  the  same  advantage  over 
windmill  pumping  that  steam  power  possesses, 
in  being  always  reliably  at  hand.  It  requires  no 
skilled  labour  for  its  operation;  a  feature  which 
commends  it  as  especially  suitable  for  small  culti- 
vators. 

As  above  said,  we  may  be  reasonably  confident 
that  a  pump  of  any  leading  style,  purchased  from 
a  reputable  dealer  (including,  too,  its  steam  cylin- 
ders and  fittings,  if  a  steam  pump),  will  be  found 
pretty  nearly  what  it  is  represented.  But  in  choice 
of  boilers,  and  windmills  likewise,  neither  general 
experience  nor  opinions  gathered  from  dealers  will 
be  found,  perhaps,  quite  so  safely  reliable. 

Of  one  point,  already  dwelt  upon,  the  vege- 
table-grower may  be  wholly  confident;  that,  in 
some  way  or  other,  as  an  indispensable  necessity, 
he  must  procure  water.  In  making  his  choice  of 
means  for  doing  it,  he  will  do  well  to  weigh  care- 
fully what  we  have  here  suggested,  as  regards 
alternatives;  but  on  the  main  matter,  there  is  no 
alternative  —  the  water  must  be  had,  as  an  indis- 

[246] 


INSECTS  AND  PREVENTIVES 

pensable  provision,  to  save  his  entire  scheme  of 
cultivation  from  absolute  failure;  to  make  it  even 
possible  to  raise  crops  that  will  pay. 

INSECTS     AND     PREVENTIVES 

So  extensive  and  serious  is  the  destructive  work 
of  injurious  insects  that  —  except  on  such  land  as 
is  kept  under  continual  tilth  and  subjected  to 
constant  and  thorough  cultivation,  with  judicious 
rotation  of  crops  —  it  often  seems  as  if  the  bugs 
must  get  the  upper  hand  of  the  grower,  do  what 
he  may.  Bugs  of  one  kind  or  another  are  found 
eating  everything  that  grows  in  the  shape  of  use- 
ful vegetables;  but  they  never  attack  a  weed. 

Unlike  the  mildews  and  other  fungous  parasites, 
insects  are  nowise  discouraged  and  driven  off  by 
healthly  and  vigorous  growth  of  the  plants  — 
this  is  just  what  they  like  to  find.  Sometimes 
they  will  sweep  off  every  plant  in  an  early  stage  of 
growth;  or  they  may  delay  their  coming  till  just 
before  harvest  and  then  consume  the  entire 
crop. 

The  Wavy-striped  Flea-beetle  (Haltica  striolata) 
is  very  destructive  to  young  cabbages  and  turnips. 

[247] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

As  soon  as  the  young  cabbages  appear  above  the 
ground  it  attacks  them  by  eating  off  the  seed 
leaves;  later,  when  the  second  leaves  appear,  the 
danger  lies  in  another  quarter,  and  it  will  often 
be  noticed  that  the  plant  wilts  and  changes  colour. 
The  grub  has  eaten  away  the  roots. 

Professor  Hulst  recommends,  for  suppression 
of  this  insect,  the  kerosene  emulsion,  one  part  of 
the  oil  to  twelve  or  fifteen  parts  water.  In  plant- 
ing out  cabbages  the  roots  should  be  dipped  in 
the  emulsion;  and  thereafter,  at  intervals  of  about 
two  weeks,  enough  of  this  compound  should  be 
poured  around  the  base  of  the  stalks  to  saturate 
the  earth  to  the  depth  of  at  least  an  inch,  whether 
the  maggots  appear  to  be  present  or  not. 

The  same  insects  that  attack  young  cabbage 
plants,  and  turnips,  also  infest  the  radish.  In 
some  localities  it  is  almost  impossible  to  grow 
radishes  of  a  size  fit  for  the  table  before  they  are 
practically  destroyed  by  a  small  maggot.  This 
maggot  appears  to  be  the  larva  of  a  fly,  closely 
related  to  those  so  destructive  to  the  onion.  If 
radishes,  cabbages,  cauliflowers  and  onions  are 
growing  in  adjacent  rows  it  has  been  found  that 
the  fly  will  attack  all  the  rows  successively,  taking 

[248] 


INSECTS  AND  PREVENTIVES 

the  radishes  as  first  choice  and  proceeding  to  the 
rest,  usually  in  the  order  named. 

The  onion  fly  lays  her  eggs  on  the  leaves  of  the 
young  and  small  onion  plants,  near  the  ground 
They  soon  hatch,  and  the  maggots  at  once  attack 
the  bulb.  In  about  two  weeks  after  this  a  second 
brood  of  flies  appears,  to  be  followed  by  more 
maggots.  The  remedy  at  this  stage  consists  in 
removing  every  infested  bulb.  These  may  be 
known  by  the  leaves  turning  yellow.  They  can- 
not be  pulled  up  by  the  tops  without  risk  of  letting 
the  maggot  escape  from  the  decayed  bulb.  They 
must  be  lifted  by  a  trowel,  or  an  old  knife,  so  as  to 
be  sure  to  bring  up  the  maggot.  The  bulbs  so 
removed,  and  the  maggots,  must  be  burned. 
Strong  caustic  lime-water,  and  concentrated  solu- 
tions of  kainite  or  muriate  of  potash  are  said  to  be 
safe  and  sure  remedies  when  applied  in  time.  A 
pint  or  half-pint  of  the  liquid  is  to  be  poured  upon 
every  plant,  making  sure  of  reaching  the  infected 
root.  This  will  kill  the  eggs  in  the  ground  as  well 
as  the  maggot  in  the  root  —  by  simple  contact. 
Plants  once  seriously  affected  can  hardly  ever  be 
saved. 

The  squash  and  pumpkin,  the  cucumber  and  the 
[249] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

melon  all  belong  to  the  Cucurbitaceae,  or  gourd 
family.  Hence,  naturally,  the  same  insects  infest 
all  these  related  plants.  The  squash  bug  is  one 
of  the  worst  and  most  disagreeable.  When  han- 
dled or  disturbed,  it  gives  off  a  very  repulsive  odor. 
The  insects  are  quiet  during  the  day,  but  at  night 
lay  their  eggs  in  little  patches,  of  a  brownish  yellow 
colour,  and  glued  to  the  leaves.  They  are  quite 
easily  kept  under  control  by  hand-picking.  The 
same  means  is  practised  with  the  tomato-worm 
and  the  potato-bug.  In  the  case  of  the  latter, 
however,  the  free  application  of  Paris  green  to  the 
vines  is  less  laborious  and  equally  effective. 

Wire-worms  are  frequently  found  infesting  the 
soil  prepared  for  the  greenhouse;  but  can  be  sup- 
pressed by  the  addition  of  three  or  four  pounds  of 
unslacked  lime  to  the  bushel  of  soil.  Similar 
treatment  may  be  presumed  to  be  beneficial  when 
they  appear  in  out-door  culture. 

The  white  grub  is  a  serious  source  of  trouble 
to  cultivators,  and  no  application  has  yet  been 
found  by  our  gardeners  to  afford  a  satisfactory 
means  of  destroying  it.  It  seems  that  if  left  lying 
in  the  ground,  in  winter  quarters,  the  grub  may  be 
frozen  to  a  solid  lump,  but  when  thawed  out  in  the 

[250] 


INSECTS  AND  PREVENTIVES 

spring  will  be  full  of  life  and  vigour.  Late  fall 
ploughing,  as  already  recommended  on  a  preceding 
page,  serves  to  bring  it  to  the  surface,  exposing  it 
more  effectually  to  the  cold  and  to  its  natural 
enemies,  thus  to  some  considerable  extent  reducing 
its  numbers.  But  the  most  hopeful  treatment  yet 
proposed  is  that  recently  put  forward  by  French 
entomologists,  who  claim  to  have  discovered  a 
plant-parasite  by  aid  of  which  lands  thoroughly 
infested  with  the  white  grub  have  been  very  largely 
relieved  after  a  two-months'  trial,  so  as  to  afford 
a  reasonable  prospect  for  the  complete  extirpation 
of  the  pest.  This  remedy,  of  introducing  a  para- 
site harmless  in  itself  but  destructive  of  the  noxious 
insect,  is  similar  to  that  which  has  been  so  success- 
fully applied  in  the  case  of  the  scale-insects  in  the 
vineyards  of  California. 

Insecticides  in  liquid  solution  may  be  applied  by 
use  of  suitable  force  pumps,  or  garden  engines 
(according  to  the  scale  on  which  the  operation  is  to 
be  carried  out),  equipped  with  spraying  nozzles. 

But  there  are  drawbacks  and  difficulties  in  the 
use  of  liquid  solutions;  one  is  that  the  poison  does 
not  actually  dissolve  in  the  water,  which  has  to  be 
constantly  agitated  to  maintain  a  mixture.  An- 

[251] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

other  is  the  great  weight  of  the  quantity  required 
to  be  used.  Dry  mixtures  are  therefore  employed, 
being  dusted  over  the  plants.  They  should  be 
put  on  preferably  when  the  foliage  is  still  damp 
after  a  rain  or  dew;  and  may  be  applied  by  use  of 
a  very  fine  sifter.  Metal  canisters,  having  finely 
perforated  bottoms,  are  made  and  sold  for  this 
purpose,  to  be  used  in  the  same  manner  as  an 
ordinary  pepper  caster.  These  will  answer  in  a 
small  way  only. 

A  capital  implement  for  applying  dry  mixtures  to 
field  crops  is  the  Farmer's  Favourite  Duster. 
In  operating  this  device,  the  left  hand  is  held  firm, 
while  the  right  hand  rotates  the  reservoir  of  poison 
and  diffuses  it  effectively. 

Any  device  such  as  described  will,  however,  be 
limited  to  use  upon  low-growing  crops;  and,  more- 
over, it  will  obviously  serve  to  distribute  the  pow- 
der only  upon  the  upper  surfaces  of  the  foliage, 
while  many  insects,  and  especially  the  eggs  by 
which  they  multiply,  may  be  found  snugly  har- 
boured on  the  under  side.  To  meet  this  deficiency 
(when  the  case  is  one  requiring  it),  use  is  made  of 
a  bellows  of  peculiar  construction,  supplied  with 
a  convenient  receptacle  for  the  powder  to  be  dis- 


INSECTS  AND  PREVENTIVES 

tributed,  from  which  it  escapes  gradually  into  the 
nozzle  of  the  bellows  when  operated.  It  is  made 
in  various  patterns  and  sizes,  all  operating  in  sub- 
stantially the  same  way.  'There  are  other  imple- 
ments that  can  be  used,  but  they  are  of  inferior 
efficiency,  and  have  nothing  to  recommend  them 
except  in  being  sold  at  a  lower  price.  The  best, 
in  this  as  in  many  other  things,  will  be  found  the 
cheapest. 

Changing  the  crop  affords  a  partial  preventive 
against  the  inroads  of  insects,  providing  that  the 
change  is  to  an  entirely  different  family  of  plants; 
for  it  is  well  known  that  the  continued  cultivation 
in  one  locality  of  any  particular  crop  has  a  ten- 
dency to  assemble  there  all  its  peculiar  enemies, 
and  favours  their  rapid  multiplication. 

No  absolutely  complete  preventives  are  known; 
and  cultivators  must  recognize  the  necessity  of 
constant  exertion,  and  unremitting  use  of  the  best- 
known  and  most  efficient  of  those  now  in  use.  Due 
inquiry  and  fuller  knowledge  of  facts  might  help  to 
accomplish  much  toward  limiting,  if  not  wholly 
exterminating,  each  and  every  kind  of  pestiferous 
insect.  Neighbours  should  combine,  both  for 
observation  and  action;  first  to  devise,  and  then 

[253] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

unitedly  to  pursue,  such  measures  as  promise  sub- 
stantial relief.  For  instance,  take  the  case  of  the 
pea  weevil.  If  all  the  farmers  of  the  country  should 
unitedly  forbear  to  raise  peas  for  a  single  year  it 
would  die  off  completely.  Perhaps  a  means  of  relief 
less  radical  and  more  practicable  of  execution  may 
yet  be  discovered ;  but  none  is  now  known  to  exist. 

STERILIZATION  OF  THE  SOIL.  This  is  done  by 
heating  the  soil  to  a  temperature  of  200  degrees 
or  more,  and  the  effect  is  very  pronounced, 
especially  in  the  working  of  the  soil  and  the 
growing  of  the  crop. 

It  has  been  found  necessary  to  resort  to  steriliza- 
tion to  prevent  what  is  known  as  the  "drop"  or 
"wilt  "in  lettuce. 

The  best  method  I  have  found  is  to  lay  pipes  on 
the  ground  and  cover  them  over  with  soil  to  the 
depth  of  at  least  one  foot.  These  pipes  are  two 
inches  in  size,  and  perforated  every  few  inches  to 
about  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 
They  should  be  ten  feet  long,  and  are  placed  on  the 
ground  about  one  foot  apart.  The  header  or  cross 
pipe  at  the  end  through  which  the  steam  enters 
is  a  three-inch  pipe  and  has  five  or  six  arms,  one 
foot  apart,  extending  out  a  few  inches  to  alloys 

[254] 


INSECTS  AND  PREVENTIVES 

the  two-inch  pipes  to  be  set  inside.  Collars  are 
then  used  to  put  over  the  adjoining  ends  of  other 
lengths  of  pipe  to  extend  the  sterilizing  bed. 
Three  lengths  of  ten-foot  pipe,  or  thirty  feet,  is 
sufficient  length  before  another  header  or  cross- 
piece  for  steam  connection  is  placed. 

Then  continue  the  same  as  before  till  you  have 
altogether  sixty  running  feet  of  bed  with  three 
steam  connections,  one  at  each  end,  and  one  in  the 
middle. 

The  soil  from  each  side  of  the  bed  is  then  shov- 
elled onto  these  pipes  to  a  depth  of  from  twelve 
to  fifteen  inches,  twelve-inch  boards  having  been 
previously  staked  up  to  hold  the  dirt  in.  Then 
turn  on  the  steam,  and  let  it  stay  on  until  all  of 
the  soil  has  attained  a  temperature  of  200  degrees. 
Then  shut  it  off,  but  leave  the  soil  undisturbed  for 
some  time,  say  three  or  four  hours.  You  will  find 
that  it  becomes  very  soft  and  can  be  very  easily 
worked. 

It  is  well  to  have  extra  pipes  and  headers  so  that 
while  the  first  section  is  being  sterilized  you  can 
be  laying  another  section  of  sixty  feet  and  have 
it  already  for  the  steam,  and  so  on. 

Since  I  took  up  this  method  a  few  years  ago 
[255] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

a  great  number  of  market  gardeners  have  tried 
it  with  almost  universal  success,  and  I  have  no 
doubt  that  it  is  one  of  the  most  beneficial  treatments 
that  lettuce  growers  employ. 

Some  sceptics  have  claimed  that  the  high  tem- 
perature to  which  the  soil  is  subjected  destroys  the 
bacteria  in  the  soil,  which  are  so  beneficial  to  the 
process  of  changing  the  nitrogen  compounds  to 
nitrites  and  thence  to  nitrates,  which  are  the  avail- 
able forms  of  plant  food. 

This  may  be  true  if  commercial  fertilizers  are 
used;  but  if  stable  manure  is  used  this  argument 
has  no  weight,  as  there  are  enough  bacteria  in  the 
manure  to  render  all  the  nitrogen  available  that  is 
necessary. 

FUMIGATION,  How  CONDUCTED.  Fumigation 
for  the  suppression  of  the  aphis  or  green  fly  (some- 
times called  green  louse)  on  lettuce  has  been 
already  recommended  in  our  cultural  directions 
for  growing  that  plant.  We  employ  moistened 
tobacco  stems  in  this  case.  Tobacco  in  any  form 
is  repulsive  to  the  aphis,  which  is  often  driven  away 
from  lettuce  by  strewing  the  stems  on  the  soil  about 
the  plants.  As  a  liquid  application,  a  decoction 
of  hot  water  and  tobacco  stemsdilutedto  the  colour 

[2561 


INSECTS  AND  PREVENTIVES 

of  weak  tea  may  be  used  with  good  results.  For 
the  destruction  of  the  black  louse,  an  insect  apt 
to  infest  the  cucumbers  in  forcing-houses,  the 
removal  of  the  first  affected  leaves  is  generally 
practised.  Tobacco  fumigation  seems  ineffectual 
in  the  case  of  this  insect. 

The  method  of  fumigation  is,  of  course,  not 
applicable  to  out-door  cultivation ;  but  is  extensively 
employed,  and  forms  an  efficient  means  of  pre- 
vention and  relief,  in  all  hot-houses.  Vapour  of 
sulphur  is  regarded  as  a  good  means  of  controlling 
powdery  mildews. 

Fumigators  offered  in  the  market  are  made  of 
strong  galvanized  sheet  iron,  20,  24,  or  28  inches 
high,  of  diameters  13,  14,  and  16  inches;  the 
larger  size  containing  one  bushel,  the  others  three- 
fourths  and  one-half  respectively.  Each  is  sup- 
plied with  a  firing-door  and  a  perforated  cover, 
and  with  convenient  handles  for  lifting  and  trans- 
porting. 

In  a  house  such  as  shown  in  photogravure  facing, 
which  is  33  feet  span,  15  feet  high  at  the  ridge, 
and  nearly  400  feet  in  length,  containing  about 
130,000  cubic  feet  of  interior  space,  I  employ 
four  of  the  largest-sized  ones.  These  require  to 

[257] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

be  operated  only  an  hour,  or  perhaps  a  little  more, 
to  fumigate  the  entire  building  effectively.  Such 
a  fumigation  having  been  repeated  three  nights 
in  succession,  is  then  intermitted  till  another  time 
arrives  when  it  seems  to  be  needed,  or  might  be 
prudently  employed  as  a  preventive. 

Vapour  of  sulphur  may  be  obtained  by  use  of  a 
kettle  or  basin  containing  sulphur  (brimstone) 
heated  nearly  to  the  boiling  point,  and  kept  at 
that  heat  as  long  as  the  process  is  desired  to  con- 
tinue. A  small  kerosene  stove  and  an  iron  kettle 
form  a  convenient  and  manageable  equipment. 
Vapour  enough  should  be  generated  to  visibly  fill 
the  house  or  apartment,  and  give  off  a  noticeable 
odour.  But  the  sulphur  must  be  carefully  watched 
to  prevent  its  taking  fire,  in  which  event  fumes 
would  arise  destructive  to  all  plant  life,  and  might 
do  extensive  mischief. 

Probably  the  two  worst  insects  we  have  to  com- 
bat are  the  red  spider  and  the  white  fly.  They 
both  can  be  killed  by  use  of  cyanide  gas. 

An  ounce  of  cyanide  used  with  two  ounces  of 
sulphuric  acid  and  four  ounces  of  water  to  2,000 
cubic  feet  will  kill  the  white  fly  and  not  injure 
some  crops.  But  great  care  must  be  used,  as  the 

[  258  ] 


INSECTS  AND  PREVENTIVES 

gas  is  very  deadly.  It  is  better,  perhaps,  to  use 
the  above  proportion  to  4,000  cubic  feet  to  start 
with,  with  an  exposure  of  six  minutes,  and  if  not 
successful  try  it  stronger  next  time.  I  have  used 
the  above  formula  successfully  on  a  tomato-house 
(one  ounce  to  4,000  cubic  feet)  and  kept  the 
house  closed  all  night  without  injuring  the  most 
tender  growth. 

But  for  red  spider  there  is  no  method  of  killing 
the  spider  and  saving  the  crop.  The  best  way  is 
to  check  him  all  you  can.  Moisture  is  a  check 
to  breeding,  but  it  is  not  practicable  to  spray  cucum- 
ber vines  too  much.  I  have  found  the  best  way  to 
be  to  cyanide  after  the  crop  is  through  bearing, 
using  a  proportion  of  one  ounce  to  200  cubic  feet, 
and  keeping  the  house  closed  all  night.  This 
should  be  repeated  in  seven  days  to  kill  the  little 
ones  that  have  hatched  out.  And  further,  keep 
your  houses  clean.  Keep  them  painted  every 
year,  and  don't  grow  cucumbers  in  the  fall,  for  if  you 
do  you  are  bound  to  have  spiders  in  the  spring. 

FUNGI  AND  PLANT  DISEASES. —  PREVEN- 
TIVES. Disease  in  plants  manifests  itself  in 
various  forms,  amongst  which  we  recognize  two 
distinct  classes;  one  due  to  the  presence  of  animal 

[259] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

parasites,  insects  and  their  larvse,  such  as  above 
described;  while  the  other  includes  smut,  mildew, 
blight,  rust  and  all  similar,  fungous  or  vegetable, 
parasite  growths,  which  we  group  under  the 
general  name  of  Fungi. 

It  is  often  not  clearly  evident  to  which  of  these 
two  classes,  or  whether,  indeed,  to  either  of  them, 
the  trouble  really  belongs.  Some  believe  it  is  an 
insect  which  causes  the  "blight"  in  celery;  but  I 
do  not  agree  with  that  view.  I  know  an  insect 
does  appear  on  the  leaves  when  they  begin  to 
decay;  but  on  almost  every  different  kind  of  decay- 
ing vegetation  some  one  insect  peculiar  to  it  is  apt 
to  appear,  corresponding  to  saprophytes  among 
fungi  —  being  invited  by  the  decay,  but  not  the 
occasion  of  it. 

And  often,  when  the  insects  have  made  their 
appearance  and  the  leaves  are  already  yellow,  if 
there  is  a  sufficient  application  of  water,  either  by 
the  occurrence  of  a  heavy  rain  or  artificially  sup- 
plied by  irrigation,  the  insects  will  disappear,  the 
yellow  leaves  will  drop  away  and  the  plants  will 
grow  healthy  again,  with  a  good  crop  as  the  result. 
The  renewed  vitality  of  the  plant  enables  it  to  cast 
off  the  morbid  condition,  however  originating. 

[260] 


INSECTS  AND  PREVENTIVES 

This  view  points  us  to  the  main  remedy  or  pre- 
ventive of  all  disease  —  and  more  particularly  the 
chief  preventive  against  every  form  of  vegetable 
parasite:  clean  and  nourishing  culture.  In  the 
outset  this  is  the  means,  and  the  only  means,  to  be 
relied  upon.  This  is  the  first  requirement;  of 
course,  there  are  others.  Hurtful  conditions  may 
be  noted  and  avoided.  It  may  reasonably  enough 
be  assumed  that  plants  are  liable  to  forms  of  dis- 
ease attributable  neither  to  vegetable  nor  animal 
parasites,  but  arising  much  like  disorders  in 
animals,  as  from  imperfect  nourishment,  exces- 
sive cold  or  heat,  lack  or  superabundance  of 
moisture  and  the  like  unhealthy  conditions.  Mis- 
management of  heat,  or  moisture,  on  a  forced  crop 
frequently  entails  a  blight;  or  promotes  mildew,  as 
elsewhere  described  in  treating  of  the  culture  of 
lettuce.  A  succession  of  dark  days,  depriving  the 
plant  of  sunshine,  exerts  a  similar  influence;  unless 
relieved  by  aid  of  the  electric  light,  now  beginning 
to  be  used. 

So,  too,  some  harmful  element  may  exist  in  the 
soil  or  fertilizer,  causing  the  plants  to  languish; 
and  thus  again  the  spores  of  fungi  may  be  enabled 
to  fasten  upon  them.  It  is  good  policy,  alike  as 

[261] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

against  the  fungous  and  all  other  disorders,  and 
on  general  grounds  as  well,  to  put  all  the  vigour 
we  can  into  the  growing  plants.  We  should  also 
bear  in  mind  the  great  importance  of  prompt 
and  efficient  action  wherever  disease  is  apparent; 
as  it  will  surely  and  rapidly  extend  itself,  unless 
controlled. 

Owing,  perhaps,  to  the  fact  that  the  varieties 
and  habits  of  insects  have  been  more  obvious  ob- 
jects of  study,  there  has  been  collected,  thus  far, 
comparatively  little  scientific  knowledge  concern- 
ing fungous  diseases  of  plants,  and  their  appro- 
priate remedies;  but  vegetable-growers  have,  from 
practical  experience,  acquired  much  valuable  infor- 
mation (though  leaving  much  yet  to  be  learned) 
and  have  been  led  to  devise  and  apply  remedies, 
some  of  which  are  very  successful. 

Fungi  that  live  upon  dead  and  decaying  sub- 
stances, such  as  toadstools,  black  and  blue  moulds, 
and  the  like,  are  of  little  interest  to  the  cultivator; 
but  there  is  another  class,  of  entirely  different  habit, 
that  attacks  living  plants,  pushing  its  own  rootlets 
into  the  growing  leaf  or  stem  or  root,  and  taking  its 
sustenance  from  the  juices  so  obtained.  Plants 
grown  in  forcing-houses  are  especially  subject  to 

[262] 


INSECTS  AND  PREVENTIVES 

these  attacks.  Among  these  fungi  are  the  downy 
mildews,  like  those  on  spinach  and  lettuce,  and 
the  powdery  mildews,  such  as  attack  cucumbers. 

They  multiply  through  the  agency  of  spores,  as 
plants  by  seeds.  Some  of  these  spores  develop 
with  great  activity  in  a  summer  temperature, 
natural  or  artificial,  when  other  conditions  are 
favourable,  but  are  readily  destroyed  when  exposed 
to  severe  cold,  long-continued  drought,  etc.,  or  to 
certain  artificially  created  conditions.  Others, 
however  (called  resting  spores),  more  sluggish  in 
habit  but  of  more  endurance,  are  found  to  remain 
unaffected,  preserving  the  species;  so  that  their 
complete  extinction  in  any  locality  is  not  to  be 
expected,  in  the  present  state  of  our  knowledge. 

As  a  rule,  when  a  vegetable  parasite  fastens 
upon  a  plant,  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  kill  the 
parasite  without  destroying  the  plant  by  the  same 
operation.  It  is  obvious,  therefore,  that  no  treat- 
ment can  be  judicious  which  is  not  mainly  pre- 
ventive. 

Healthful  condition  is,  as  already  urged,  an 
important  means  of  prevention.  Another,  which 
has  been  often  recommended,  but  far  too  little 
attended  to,  consists  in  the  removal  and  destruc- 

[263] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

tion  of  all  leaves,  twigs  and  dead  growths  which 
may  contain  the  spores. 

The  various  liquid  preparations  for  spraying 
and  so  protecting  the  foliage  and  succulent  stems, 
by  way  of  which  the  spores  are  apt  to  gain  footing 
on  growing  plants,  generally  operate  by  coating 
the  surfaces  with  a  thin  film  of  some  substance 
in  which  the  spores  cannot  germinate,  while  yet 
it  is  harmless  to  the  plant.  The  spraying  should 
be  repeated,  at  intervals  of  ten  or  fifteen  days  at 
most,  at  such  time  and  as  long  as  any  danger  of 
an  attack  is  to  be  apprehended.  This  time  varies 
with  the  different  habits  of  different  fungi;  further 
knowledge  than  we  now  possess  on  that  point  will 
doubtless  be  gathered  as  time  goes  on. 

IN    CONC  LUSIO  N 

I  AM  very  sure  that  much  in  the  preceding 
pages  will  be  directly  helpful  in  the  way  of  prac- 
tical guidance  to  any  one  engaged,  or  about  to 
engage,  in  the  business  of  vegetable-growing. 
Indirectly,  also,  the  cultivator  or  student  will 
be  benefited,  if,  by  their  perusal,  he  is  stimulated 
to  a  livelier  sense  of  the  variety  and  importance 

[264] 


IN   CONCLUSION 

of  the  multiplied  details  belonging  to  his  chosen 
avocation. 

Wherever  there  has  not  been  opportunity  for 
the  full  discussion  of  any  subject,  in  adequate  pro- 
portion to  its  prominence  and  practical  impor- 
tance, I  have  endeavoured  to  make  such  sugges- 
tions as  will  lead  the  thoughtful  reader  to  inquire 
further  and  learn  more. 

The  rules  herein  laid  down  are,  in  compact 
form,  the  net  results  of  extended  practical  experi- 
ence. They  are  no  haphazard  inventions,  of  doubt- 
ful utility,  as  are  too  many  of  the  instructions  and 
cultural  directions  which,  from  time  to  time,  obtain 
more  or  less  currency  amongst  horticulturists. 

Learners,  in  conducting  experimental  work  of 
their  own,  or  in  considering  results  as  reported 
by  others,  should  beware  of  hasty  conclusions. 
There  are  always  manifold  obscure  conditions 
affecting  largely,  perhaps  controlling,  the  out- 
come of  crop  experiments.  Of  these  conditions, 
the  very  ones  least  recognized  and  understood 
may  have  far  more  to  do  with  results  than  those 
they  have  been  most  intent  on  observing. 

Results  of  vegetable-culture  will  always  be 
largely  affected  by  climatic  conditions;  and  these, 

[265] 


SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING 

of  course,  are  variable  from  season  to  season. 
Crops  will  sometimes  fail  utterly  —  and  again 
sometimes  succeed  astonishingly  —  for  no  visible 
reason  in  either  case.  Manure  effects,  especially 
on  soils  naturally  poor,  are  apt  to  be  very  difficult 
of  prediction  or  subsequent  analysis:  the  only 
safe  general  maxim  being  the  common-sense  rule, 
to  feed  the  plants  abundantly  and  let  them  find 
and  take  what  they  require. 

The  conditions  of  greenhouse  and  hot-bed 
culture  are  more  definitely  known,  and  can  be  more 
exactly  fulfilled,  than  those  of  open  culture,  for 
obvious  reasons.  It  is  in  these  forms  of  vege- 
table-growing that  the  largest  recent  advances 
have  been  made,  and  in  which  the  most  impor- 
tant future  improvements  seem  likely  to  be 
developed. 

As  regards  choice  and  rare  winter-products  of 
forcing-houses,  the  market  demand,  though 
steadily  increasing,  is  but  small  as  yet.  Those 
who  have  access  to  the  larger  markets  are,  of 
course,  comparatively  far  better  enabled  to  make 
suitable  disposal  of  such  products.  Others  will 
be  limited,  for  the  present,  to  producing  the  more 
common  kinds,  such  as  lettuce,  dandelion  and 

[266] 


IN  CONCLUSION 

parsley,  for  which  a  more  general  demand  exists. 
The  rarer  sorts,  such  as  asparagus,  cucumbers, 
cauliflowers  and  tomatoes,  being  still  regarded  as 
special  luxuries,  can  be  freely  disposed  of  only  in 
the  large  cities. 

That  the  cultural  directions  foregoing  and 
other  matter  presented  leave  much  to  be  learned, 
and  are,  taken  by  themselves,  only  partially  ade- 
quate to  the  guidance  of  the  unskilled  cultivator, 
is  only  what  must  be  true  of  any  similar  manual. 
It  would  be  hard  to  name  a  subject  open  to  wider 
research  and  capable  of  greater  advances  than  is 
that  of  plant-growing,  even  when  limited  to  its 
most  practical  aspect. 

SUCCESS  IN  MARKET  GARDENING  demands 
intelligence,  diligence  and  natural  aptitude.  Per- 
sonal diligence  and  natural  aptitude  are  matters 
outside  the  scope  of  any  manual;  but  an  intelli- 
gent cultivation  of  the  various  crops  under  all  the 
varying  conditions  of  the  business  can,  of  course, 
be  promoted  greatly  by  referring  to  the  experi- 
ence acquired  by  those  who  have  succeeded  in  it. 

THE   END 

[267] 


INDEX 


Anise,  160. 
Aphis,  256. 
Applying  manure,  64. 

moisture,  21. 
Artichoke,  96. 

Jerusalem,  97. 
Asparagus,  97. 

cutting,  99. 

Balm,  161. 
Basil,  sweet,   161. 
Beans,  dwarf,  100. 

pole,   106. 

running,  106. 

varieties  to  grow,  103. 
Beet,  109. 
Borecole,  112. 
Broccoli,  114. 
Brussels  sprouts,  116. 

Cabbage,  117. 

carrier,  238. 

Cabbages,  watering,  33. 
Cantaloupe,  177. 
Capital  required,  92. 
Caraway,  161. 
Carrot,  125. 
Cauliflower,  127. 

watering,  33. 
Celeriac,  131. 
Celery,  132. 

storing,  for  winter,  139. 


Celery,  turnip-rooted,  131. 

watering,  34. 
Chicory,  142. 
Chives,  143. 

Commercial  fertilizers,  53. 
Compost,  58. 
Corn,  field,  145. 

salad,  149. 

sweet,  146. 
Cress,  149. 
Crops,  cultivation  of,  80. 

gathering,  91. 

in  hotbed,  succession  of,  87. 

planning  for,  43. 

rotation  of,  44. 
Cucumber,  150. 
Cultivation  of  crops,  80. 
Cultivator,  228. 
Cutting  asparagus,  99. 
Cyanide  gas,  258. 
Cynara,  96. 

Dandelion,  156. 
Diseases  in  plants,  259. 
Drainage,  10. 
Drains,  depth  of,  14. 
Drill,  233. 

Egg  plant,  158. 
Electro-culture,  240. 
Endive,  159. 


INDEX 


Fallowing,  45. 
Fertilizers,  48. 

commercial,  53. 
Field  marker,  237. 
Flea-beetle,  247. 
Fork,  231. 
Fumigation,  256. 

Garden  tools,  222. 
Gardening  in  hot-houses,  88. 
Gathering  crops,  91. 
Germinating  power  of  seed,  72. 
Green-fly,  256. 
Greenhouse  heating,  238. 
Growing  seed,  74. 

Hand  hoe,  231. 
Harrow,  226. 
Harrowing,  36,  38. 
Heating  a  greenhouse,  238. 

hot-bed,  83. 

hot-house,  90. 
Herbs,  160. 
Horseradish,  163. 
Hose,  rubber,  27. 
Hot-bed,  heating,  88. 

making  a,  82. 

succession  of  crops  in,  87. 
Hot-house,  gardening  in,  88. 

heating  a,  90. 
Hydrocyanic  acid  gas,  258. 

Implements,  agricultural,  221. 
Impoverished  soils,  19. 
Insects  and  preventions,  247. 
Irrigating  pumps,  23. 
Irrigation,  19. 

Kale,  112. 

Kerosene  emulsion,  248. 

Kohl  rabi,  165. 


Labour,  cost  of,  94. 
Lavender,  161. 
Leek,  166. 
Lettuce,  167. 

in  hot-beds,  170. 

wilt,  254. 

Liquid  manure,  60. 
Loam,  59. 
Location,  6. 

Making  a  hot-bed,  82. 
Manure,  49. 

applying,  64. 

liquid,  60. 

spreader,  223. 

spreading,  51. 
Manures,  48. 
Manuring  for  beans,  101. 
Marjoram,  sweet,  162. 
Martynia,  174. 
Moisture,  applying,  21. 
Mushrooms,  174. 
Muskmelon,  175. 
Mustard,  178. 

Okra,  179. 
Onion,  181. 

fly,  249. 
Onions  on  same  ground,  46. 

Paris  green,  250. 
Parsley,  184. 
Parsnips,  185. 
Peas,  186. 
Peppers,  190. 
Piping,  30. 

Planning  for  crops,  43 
Plant  diseases,  259. 
Ploughing,  36,  38,  40. 
Plough,  223. 


[270 


INDEX 


Pole  beans,  106. 
Potato,  192. 
bug,  250. 

Preparation  of  soil,  36. 
Pulverization,  process  of,  18,  42. 
Pumping  outfit,  243. 
Pumps  for  irrigating,  23. 

Radishes,  86,  196. 
Raking,  36. 
Red  spider,  258,  259. 
Rhubarb,  198. 
Roller,  227. 
Rosemary,  162. 
Rotation  of  crops,  44. 
Rubber  hose,  27. 
Running  beans,  106. 

Sage,  common,  162. 

Salsify,  200. 

Sea  kale,  200. 

Seed,  germinating  power  of  a,  72. 

growing,  74. 

selecting,  69. 

sower,  233. 

sowing,  77. 

vitality  of,  71,  73. 
Selecting  seed,  69. 
Shovel,  231. 
Slide  hoe,  232. 
Soil,  7. 

impoverished,  19. 

preparation  of,  36. 

pulverizing,  42. 

sterilization,  254. 
Sowing  seed,  77. 
Spade,  231. 


Spinach,  201. 
Spreader,  manure,  223. 
Spreading  manure,  51. 
Squash,  203. 

bug,  250. 

Sterilizing  the  soil,  254. 
Subsoiling,  36,  39. 

Succession  of  crops  in  hot-bed,  87. 
Sulphur  vapour,  258. 
Summer  savoury,  163. 
Swiss  chard,  111. 

Tansy,  163. 
Thyme,  163. 
Tobacco,  256. 
Tomato,  206. 
worm,  250. 
Turnips,  212. 

Upland  cress,  150. 

Varieties  of  beans,  103. 

beets,  110. 
Vitality  of  seed,  71,  73. 

Watering  cabbages,  33. 

cauliflower,  33. 

celery,  34. 
Watermelon,  214. 
Wheel  hoe,  232. 
White  fly,  258. 

grub,  250. 
Wilt  in  lettuce,  254. 
Wire-worms,  250. 
Wood  ashes,  57. 

Yam,  Chinese,  216. 


[271] 


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